Bernhard Lederer, the celebrated independent watchmaker, has returned with yet another masterclass in horological expression: the Inverto Titanium 39 mm. Presented in Dubai for DWW 2025, this evolution distills Lederer’s vision of mechanical purity, marrying modern material science with a devotion to traditional watchmaking artistry. The Inverto Titanium speaks of balance and restraint, inviting the beholder into an intimate dialogue with the movement’s architecture.
At first glance, the watch immediately declares its dedication to transparency and honesty, drawing the eye into the depths of its dial side where Lederer’s artistry flourishes. Contrary to convention, the entire choreography of gears, springs and twin remontoirs plays out before you, every element revealed with intention. The inverted architecture achieves much more than visual novelty, it exposes the vital rhythm of mechanical timekeeping, transforming structural engineering into aesthetic experience.
Calibre 9019 lies at the heart of the Inverto Titanium, an exceptional dual detent escapement paired with a double constant-force remontoir: visible, alive, synchronised. Every fifteen seconds, these twin mechanisms release their stored energy in concert, ensuring a consistent delivery of torque from start to finish. Lederer has revisited the Gafner principle, stripping away resistance, dialling performance to its peak. The resulting cadence is distinctive: quiet, flawless, perpetual, a signature nearly absent elsewhere in contemporary horology.
Artistic finishes deepen the sense of mastery. The movement receives hand-anglage, black polish and circular graining, each surface treated with the reverence of tradition yet interpreted through modern eyes. A sculpted engraving echoes architectural forms, its geometry reinforcing the logic and unity of the construction. Even the small seconds on the back traces time in harmony with the remontoir’s rhythm, a subtle detail that rewards the observant.
Turning to the case, Lederer has chosen Grade 5 titanium not simply for its weight or resilience, but for the expressive potential it offers in the hands of a true craftsman. Each concave profile hugs the wrist, designed for comfort and coherence. The finishing process is demanding: every angle, every curve polished entirely by hand, producing a dynamic interplay between satin and mirror surfaces. The effect is nothing short of captivating, especially as light dances over the case, revealing subtleties that can’t be replicated by mere mass production.
Measuring 39 mm across and 10.5 mm in height, the Inverto Titanium’s proportions strike a graceful balance suitable for daily wear, without compromising presence. It boasts 30 metres of water resistance and sapphire crystals front and back, but these technicalities become secondary to the visual purity and tactile allure bestowed by Lederer’s Neuchâtel workshops, where almost all components are crafted in house. Finishing techniques glorify the movement’s architecture, completing the narrative of sincerity and artistry established by Lederer’s own hand.
The Inverto Titanium 39 mm marks four decades of Bernhard Lederer’s journey, a career spent at the confluence of German rigour and Swiss discipline, never losing sight of the emotional core within mechanical watchmaking. A founding member of the AHCI and widely acclaimed as a Master of Escapements, Lederer has devoted his life to reimagining the flow of energy across a movement, each creation arising from reflection, patience and an unyielding pursuit of precision and beauty. This new chapter for the Inverto is noticeably devoid of grandiloquence or forced scarcity. Production remains deliberately limited, purely to uphold the standard of craftsmanship with each watch, the product of patience, contemplation and mechanical logic. The Inverto Titanium does not shout for attention. Instead, it offers the quiet joy of discovery to those who study its nuances, its clarity, its soul.
In the Inverto Titanium 39 mm, priced at CHF 152’000.-, time is neither hidden nor rushed. It is transformed into an experience architectural, rhythmic, deeply personal. Lederer’s latest creation is not simply a technical milestone; it is a living work of art, honouring tradition while walking boldly into the future.
