In mid-January 2026, Milan hosted the seventh edition of LVMH Watch Week, a gathering that has become essential to the watchmaking calendar. Amongst the nine Maisons presenting their latest creations, Tiffany & Co. emerged with a remarkable collection that bridged two centuries of the House’s expertise: jewellery craftsmanship and horological innovation. Rather than simply adapting existing designs to wrist-worn format, the New York jeweller demonstrated a philosophy that treats timepieces as an extension of its storied design language. Three distinct pieces formed the nucleus of Tiffany’s presentation, each revealing different facets of the House’s vision for contemporary watchmaking.
The Tiffany Timer: Commemorating 160 Years of Chronographic Heritage
The centrepiece of Tiffany’s LVMH collection is the Tiffany Timer, a limited edition of 60 pieces that honours the 160th anniversary of the House’s first chronograph, created in 1866. The watch emerges as a contemplation of what a platinum sports chronograph might look like when designed not by a watchmaker steeped in racing heritage, but by a jeweller accustomed to translating light and structure into precious metal.
The dial demands attention first. Its Tiffany Blue lacquer represents a commitment to process that extends beyond mere aesthetics. The colour requires over 50 hours of labour to achieve its distinctive depth. Eight applications of matte varnish are hand-sprayed onto the dial base, each followed by temperature-controlled kiln drying. Subsequently, fifteen layers of transparent lacquer are applied, with each layer allowed to air-dry under carefully regulated humidity and temperature conditions. Only after twelve additional hours of kiln work does the dial reach its final state. The twelve generously proportioned baguette-cut diamonds hour markers interrupt this field of colour with crystalline punctuation, a direct reference to the House’s diamond-setting expertise.
The 40 millimetre platinum case follows a logic that feels distinctly jewellery-derived. The pushers curve into the case profile and double as crown protectors. The faceted crown itself references the six-pronged Tiffany Setting, the structural form that underpins the House’s most celebrated engagement rings. At first glance, these choices might read as applied decoration, but they function as architectural integrity. Every element performs a structural purpose whilst reinforcing the House’s design vocabulary.
Beneath the sapphire caseback lies an unexpected flourish: a hand-sculpted 18k yellow gold Bird on a Rock, perched upon the oscillating weight of a customised Zenith El Primero 400 movement. This motif, drawn from Jean Schlumberger’s iconic 1960s brooch, required a recalibration of the rotor’s mass during development. It is a testament to Tiffany’s insistence on visual integrity above manufacturing convenience. The movement itself, customised for this watch, delivers the El Primero’s characteristic 36,000 beats per hour frequency and a 50-hour power reserve.
The dial layout follows the tripartite register arrangement synonymous with the El Primero: chronograph seconds on the outer track, elapsed minutes at three o’clock, elapsed hours and date at six o’clock, and running seconds at nine o’clock. Dark grey transfer-printed indications provide legibility against the Tiffany Blue background. The watch is presented on a taupe alligator strap secured by an 18k white gold triple-folding clasp.
At $55,000 USD, the Tiffany Timer positions itself within the upper echelon of platinum sports chronographs. For collectors seeking a high-beat chronograph with singular design authority and limited availability, the scarcity of 60 pieces will likely determine its fate quickly.
The Sixteen Stone Mother-of-Pearl Watch: Movement as Metaphor
Where the Tiffany Timer leans towards the graphite-toned aesthetics of contemporary sports watchmaking, the Sixteen Stone Mother-of-Pearl watch embraces kinetic sculpture. Inspired by Jean Schlumberger’s Sixteen Stone jewellery collection of 1959, the watch translates textile heritage into horological form.
The dial structure is deceptively clever. A fixed central disc of mother-of-pearl serves as the foundation. Surrounding it is a rotating outer ring adorned with the collection’s signature cross-stitch motif in 18k yellow gold, punctuated by twenty-four round brilliant diamonds totalling one carat. With each gesture of the wearer’s wrist, this ring spins freely, creating a sense of motion and life—a quality that defined much of Schlumberger’s jewellery output.
The 36 millimetre white gold case accommodates 413 diamonds across multiple components. The case itself employs a snow-set technique, in which round full-cut diamonds of varying sizes create an almost continuous expanse of reflected light with minimal visible metal structure. The caseback carries a sunburst engraving inspired by Schlumberger’s Floral Arrows brooch, itself set with diamonds. The Tiffany Blue alligator strap terminates in a white gold buckle set with additional diamonds.
The construction of the rotating ring alone demands 25 hours of labour. The process begins with mould-making, where dimensions must be accurate within fractions of a millimetre. Molten gold is poured into these moulds and allowed to solidify. Once extracted, each cross-stitch motif receives hand-polishing before being mounted upon the rotating ring amongst the diamonds. This labour-intensive approach prioritises visual authenticity: each stitch achieves the varied surface qualities characteristic of hand-crafted metalwork.
Movement duties fall to a high-precision Swiss quartz calibre, a pragmatic choice that allows focus to remain on the dial’s choreography. The watch will be produced in limited quantities annually, reflecting the constraints imposed by its hand-assembled architecture.
The Eternity Baguette Collection: Diamonds as Compositional Element
Tiffany’s Eternity watch collection has long drawn inspiration from vintage Tiffany advertisements of the 1960s, which presented engagement rings in an array of cuts and configurations. The Eternity Baguette represents an evolution within this lineage, introducing baguette-cut gemstones to the bezel for the first time, a subtle reference to the eternity ring design.
Two interpretations are offered, each presenting a different approach to gemstone organisation.
The Blue Gradient Interpretation
The Eternity Baguette Blue Gradient features a navy-blue sunray satin-finished dial complemented by twelve diamond hour markers rendered in twelve different cuts: round brilliant, baguette, cushion, Tiffany True®, marquise, Asscher, heart, pear, oval, emerald, triangle and princess. The bezel encircles this composition with 36 invisibly-set baguette-cut gemstones comprising ten sapphires, twenty-one topazes and five emeralds, totalling more than five carats. These stones are arranged to create a seamless blue gradient effect, progressing through tonal variation. A diamond-set flange encircles the dial’s perimeter, adding further brilliance.
Across the entire watch, 556 diamonds of over four carats are set. The 36 millimetre 18k white gold case is snow-set with 533 round full-cut diamonds of approximately 2.18 carats. The crown, referencing the Tiffany Setting’s six-prong design, carries a prong-set solitaire diamond of 0.47 carats. The navy-blue alligator strap fastens with an 18k white gold “T” buckle set with additional diamonds.
The Diamond Interpretation
The Eternity Baguette Diamond follows a similar architectural logic but substitutes the gemstone bezel with 36 baguette-cut diamonds, collectively weighing more than five carats, linked by a diamond-set flange to a dial snow-set with round brilliant diamonds. Aquamarine hour markers in twelve different cuts provide chromatic counterpoint to this diamond-dominant composition, introducing softness to the crystalline structure.
The diamond count across this variant totals 979 stones weighing 9.79 carats. The case contains 533 round full-cut diamonds of approximately 2.18 carats, while the bezel adds 36 baguette diamonds exceeding five carats. The dial contributes 399 diamonds of approximately 1.95 carats, with the crown providing one solitaire of 0.47 carats. The aquamarine hour markers collectively weigh approximately 1.35 carats. This watch pairs with a Mediterranean blue alligator strap and an 18k white gold “T” buckle set with diamonds.
Both variants employ a Swiss self-winding mechanical movement, a significant detail: this marks the first time Tiffany has introduced such a movement in a non-limited Eternity model. The 38-hour power reserve suits the hand-setting requirements these watches demand, where ownership implies a certain relationship with the House’s service infrastructure.
The Hour Markers: A Philosophy of Diversity
The twelve different diamond cuts appearing on the Eternity dials warrant particular attention, as they reveal Tiffany’s approach to horological design. Rather than selecting a single cut to dominate as a choice that would offer formal clarity, the House opted for diversity. At the twelve-hour position sits a heart-shaped diamond, symbolising the notion that each day begins and ends with love. This is jewellery thinking, not watchmaking convention.
The realisation of these markers involves hand-milling each of the twelve settings on the dial, followed by individual diamond setting. It’s a labour-intensive commitment that underscores the House’s prioritisation of craft over efficiency.
Jewellery’s Contribution to Watchmaking
Tiffany & Co.’s presentation at LVMH Watch Week establishes that the intersection of jewellery expertise and horological ambition remains fertile ground for meaningful design. These watches neither apologise for their jewellery heritage nor attempt to distance themselves from it. Instead, they propose that the decorative arts and temporal measurement need not be antagonistic pursuits.
The Tiffany Timer demonstrates that a platinum sports chronograph can be rendered with the precision of case finishing more commonly seen in haute joaillerie. The Sixteen Stone Mother-of-Pearl proves that kinetic sculpture can coexist with timekeeping function. The Eternity Baguette watches propose that gemstone density, rather than watchmaking complication, can constitute genuine innovation within a familiar silhouette.
In an industry where independent manufactures regularly assert claims to craft authenticity, Tiffany’s approach carries a different kind of conviction: the House brings two centuries of executed expertise in precious materials, gemstone selection and detailed craft to every piece. Whether one seeks a platinum chronograph limited to 60 examples, a quartz watch with a rotating dial mechanism, or a mechanical watch where every visible surface reflects light, these pieces address distinct collecting positions. What unites them is a fundamental belief that jewellery and horological knowledge, when properly integrated, produce watches of genuine distinction.
The question facing collectors is not whether these watches represent value relative to competitors in their respective categories. Rather, it is whether one accepts the proposition that design authority rooted in 175 years of jewellery craft constitutes sufficient purpose for wrist-worn timekeeping in the contemporary moment. For those who do, LVMH Watch Week 2026 offered compelling arguments.
