I have always admired how Louis Moinet manages to blend history with an almost sci-fi aesthetic. With the new Speed of Sound, the Maison takes a legendary engine from the 1940s and propels it into the future. This release is not just a vintage revival; it creates a bridge between the golden age of chronograph movements and modern avant-garde design. The brand offers this timepiece in two distinct series: a 20-piece edition celebrating their 20th anniversary and three ultra-rare sets limited to just three pieces each in black, green, and orange.
Reinterpretation of a chono dial
The first thing that catches your eye is the sheer depth of the dial. Louis Moinet collaborated with the talented guillocheur Yann von Kaenel to create a pattern that plays with light in a fascinating way. The guilloché work suggests a high-tech material rather than traditional brass, giving the watch a dynamic energy. In the counters, we find Aletai iron meteorite, which adds a unique texture and reinforces the cosmic theme the brand loves so much.
The moon phase at 6 o’clock is where the design truly shines. Instead of a standard disc, we see a large, domed display featuring a hand-drawn lunar motif. A fragment of Dhofar 457 lunar meteorite sits on this disc to represent the full moon, aligning with pointers at 3 and 9 o’clock. It is a clever reinvention of a classic complication. Surrounding the dial, the “Speed of Sound” scale allows you to measure the distance of a sound event, such as a lightning strike, by starting the chronograph when you see the flash and stopping it when you hear the thunder. The designers removed the traditional date markers to keep the focus on this telemeter scale and the chronograph counters, resulting in a cleaner and more purposeful layout.
Paying respect to the Valjoux 88
Inside this modern shell beats a historic heart: the Valjoux 88. Watch enthusiasts know this calibre well. Produced between the 1940s and 1970s, it stands as an icon of Swiss watchmaking. Louis Moinet sourced these original movements and modified them extensively. The master watchmakers stripped away the calendar functions and the 12-hour counter to suit the contemporary vision of the piece.
This hand-wound chronograph operates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and offers a power reserve of 40 hours. The view through the case back is spectacular. The bridges feature hand-engraved floral motifs and scrolls that recall traditional lace patterns. This manual decoration contrasts beautifully with the industrial look of the dial, reminding us that this mechanism is a piece of history brought back to life.
Unmistakable Louis Moinet
The choice of grade 5 titanium for the case makes perfect sense for a watch of this complexity. At 40.7 millimetres in diameter, it sits comfortably on the wrist, feeling much lighter than its visual presence suggests. The case features polished and satin-brushed finishes that highlight its architectural lines. I particularly appreciate the openworked lugs, which reduce weight and add to the technical feel of the watch. A box-type sapphire crystal protects the dial, allowing light to flood in from all angles and showcase the meteorite textures. The watch comes fitted with a preformed rubber strap and a triple-blade folding clasp, ensuring it remains secure during wear.
Keeping writing history
The Louis Moinet Speed of Sound successfully combines a historic engine with a futuristic chassis. It appeals to collectors who respect the lineage of the Valjoux 88 but desire a watch that looks forward rather than backward. The inclusion of lunar and iron meteorites adds a tangible connection to the cosmos that few other brands can match. With a price of CHF 50,000, it remains an exclusive proposition for those who truly value independent watchmaking and historical movements.
