I will be straightforward: when I first heard that Favre Leuba, the second-oldest Swiss watchmaking brand founded in Le Locle in 1737, was joining forces with Timepiece 787, a collector community rooted in Puerto Rico, I was genuinely intrigued. The Deep Raider Revival X Timepiece 787 is the outcome of that collaboration, a limited run of precisely 25 pieces drawing its soul from the iconic 1964 Deep Blue. And having gone through every technical detail, it delivers far beyond what a “collector edition” label might suggest.
Bullseye Dial
The dial states its intentions immediately. Favre Leuba and Timepiece 787 adopt a sector-style “bullseye” layout, dividing the blue dial surface into distinct concentric zones that guide the eye outward toward a contrasting chapter ring. Product Designer Kim Siegel confirms that the red accents serve a deliberate purpose: drawing the eye to key details while nodding to vintage printing tones of the 1960s. Crucially, those same blue and red tones also pay tribute to the colours of the Puerto Rican flag, which gives the collaboration a genuine cultural grounding rather than a purely commercial one. Applied quarter-hour indexes sit proud of the surface, and the hands carry generous Super-LumiNova charges with green emission for solid legibility in dark conditions. At 9 o’clock, a discreet “Timepiece 787” signature integrates the collaboration without cluttering the dial hierarchy. Furthermore, a white-disc date window between 4 and 5 o’clock delivers immediate contrast against the sector layout.
The Movement
Inside runs the FL D01, a self-winding calibre built on the La Joux-Perret G100 architecture. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), it delivers a smooth seconds sweep consistent with what collectors expect from a serious contemporary diver. The power reserve reaches 68 hours, well over two full days off the wrist without intervention, and the calibre covers hours, minutes, seconds, and date across a 24-jewel construction. Because Favre Leuba opts for a solid engraved caseback on this edition rather than a display back, the FL D01 operates entirely out of sight. That said, the movement’s specifications and its proven G100 foundation give no reason for concern on the reliability front.
316L Steel Case
The 316L stainless steel case measures 39 mm in diameter, 12.75 mm thick, with a 48 mm lug-to-lug distance and a 19 mm lug width, proportions that work across a broad range of wrist sizes. Polished case flanks meet bevelled, tapered lugs, achieving a balance between tool-watch function and contemporary finishing. A box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the dial, and the watch achieves 300 metres of water resistance, surpassing the original 1960s Deep Blue’s 200-metre rating. The solid caseback carries the engravings “Super-Waterproof” and “Limited Edition – One of 25,” with the Favre Leuba emblem reinterpreted to display the “787” numerals at its centre. Each watch ships with both a five-link polished stainless steel bracelet and a bespoke hand-crafted Jean Rousseau leather strap featuring red stitching, switchable via an easy-change system.
Worth the Investment?
The Deep Raider Revival X Timepiece 787 shows what a focused collaboration between a heritage manufacture and a deeply knowledgeable collector community can produce when both parties bring real intent to the table. Favre Leuba, set to exhibit at Watches and Wonders Geneva for the very first time in 2026, clearly treats this edition as both a design statement and a marker of its American relaunch. At USD 3,400 for a Swiss-made automatic with 300-metre water resistance, a 68-hour power reserve, and a handcrafted Jean Rousseau strap included, all limited to 25 pieces, the value proposition is genuinely strong in a segment where comparable specifications frequently command considerably higher prices. This is a precise, intentional object built for collectors who understand what Favre Leuba stood for in 1964 and who want a hand in shaping where it goes next.
