Understanding the DOXA SUB 200 T.GRAPH II

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Just before Watches and Wonders 2026, in the familiar background of the Beau Rivage Hotel in Geneva, Diana and I met the new DOXA SUB 200 T.GRAPH II, the reimagined brand’s historic dive chronograph. A first glimpse reveals the familiar cushion case and bright tool-watch aesthetic that makes DOXA so easily recognisable. My main question is how this second generation actually feels: as a contemporary watch or a nostalgic reissue. Let’s have a look at the official presentation video and afterwards go into the deep…

The first impression that the SUB 200 T.Graph II delivers on the wrist is that unmistakable DOXA look and feel: the cushion outline, the bright colours and that fantastic rice beads bracelet – one serious tool watch . As expected, DOXA does not run away from colour: the legendary Professional orange, the stealthier Sharkhunter black, the bright sunburst Searambler silver and the newly into the line introduced Caribbean dark blue that gives the T.Graph family a cooler, more relaxed face for the first time – more about than one later…

History and new generation

In time when a proper dive watch with a chronograph movement was an exotic idea, DOXA built the first T.Graph – a hand-wound Doxa calibre 287 (a personalised Eberhard 310-82: a highly robust, 14-ligne manual-wind chronograph movement featuring a column-wheel chrono mechanism and an integrated date ring at the 6 o’clock position. This caliber is historically significant because it is widely considered one of the very last original manual column-wheel chronograph movements designed during the late 1960s era), cased in a large cushion case featurings the already patented no-decompression bezel. Launched in 1969, the SUB 200 T.GRAPH became one of the most distinctive professional divers of its era, remained until now a rare and desirable artefact. DOXA revived it in 2019 as a limited edition in gold and then in steel with new old stock Valjoux 7734 cam-switched chronograph calibres, but only as limited edition of 13 numbered pieces.

Note: A standard dive watch bezel solves only half the problem: it tells you how long you have been down. A no-decompression bezel goes further by encoding the actual depth-vs-time limits directly onto the bezel ring, so you can read your safe bottom time at a glance without consulting a table. You simply align the bezel zero marker with the minute hand at the moment you descend, then glance at your depth gauge, find that depth on the bezel scale, and read off the maximum time you have remaining before you would need a decompression stop.
Most dive watch bezels of the 1960s carried only a simple 60-minute elapsed time scale. DOXA’s engineers took the US Navy no-decompression dive tables and encoded both depth and time into a dual-scale bezel: an outer ring showing diving depths in metres or feet, and an inner ring showing the corresponding maximum dive times in minutes, with both scales sharing a common zero point. DOXA patented this configuration and first introduced it on the SUB 300 in 1967, two years before the T.Graph appeared. The scale covers depths from 60 feet, where you have 60 minutes, down to 190 feet, where safe bottom time shrinks to just four minutes.

How the new SUB 200 T.Graph II enters in the permanent collection?

The SUB 200 T.Graph II sits as the chronograph sibling to DOXA’s SUB 200T and while adding some structural differences from the SUB 200 C-Graph, but keeping a distinct identity that trace directly back to the 1969 model. But there are also some changes from the 2019 model: a new case diameter in 42 mm, down from the 43 mm and a thickness of 14.6 mm from about 15.15 mm. The wearing choice offers the known 316L stainless steel beads of rice bracelet or a rubber strap in the dial colour (although you can buy strap separately).

The Dial and its Colours

The dial of the SUB 200 T.Graph II follows a clear and familiar pattern and the excellent legibility that made it historically so loved by professionals. The layout is split between the bi-compax chronograph with a 30 minute counter at three o’clock (with yellow/block 5 minutes blocks), a small running seconds at nine, a framed date window at lower six o’clock and bold central hour and minute.

The minute hand intentionally oversized to serve legibility for divers, who care more about elapsed minutes than hours. DOXA prints the indices and it fills both the hour markers and the hands with Super‑LumiNova. It is a very interesting and quite contrasting look. On the Sharkhunter black version the contrast between the pale lume fill and the dark ground produces particularly strong contrast in low light, with Caribbean Blue following shortly. The orange Professional dial relies on the same lume fill against a warmer background that absorbs slightly more ambient light. On the Searambler silver is the highest light bleed. So one can choose a watch based on its Lume preferences.

Colour remains central to DOXA’s identity, and this new generation of T.Graph reflects that with four versions: Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, Searambler sunburst silver and Caribbean dark blue. Three of the four colours reproduce the original 1969 T.Graph palette exactly. Caribbean Blue is the outlier, arriving in the SUB family in the late 1960s, making it roughly contemporaneous with the original T.Graph. DOXA now corrects that historical gap by bringing the colour into the T.Graph II as well. DOXA chose not to expand beyond four options and did not reach for colours like Divingstar yellow or Aquamarine turquoise from the other SUB range, probably to keep the T.Graph II’s palette tighter and more focused on its original identity.

The dials are manufactures from brass: stamped, then coated in a base lacquer layer that establishes the colour, with a further matte or semi-gloss protective coat over it. The a sunray-finished of the Searambler variant receives a machine-brushed radial finish before lacquering so that the underlying texture visibly catches light at different angles. For me it is a hard choice between this brushed dial and the orange version… The shine of the brushing makes spectacular light games in the sun, while the orange remains my favourite DOXA association.

Movement and technical character

Under the screwed caseback DOXA opted for the robust automatic Sellita SW510, already in use on the SUB 200 C-Graph II. When I look at the movement choice in the context of the 2019 steel T.Graph that used NOS Valjoux 7734, the shift to Sellita feels logical. NOS movements carry romance but they inevitably complicate long‑term maintenance, and many owners would rather have a modern calibre with ready parts and wide service know‑how, even if that means sacrificing a bit of vintage charm in the pushers.The SW510 family builds on Sellita’s SW500 architecture, itself a close cousin to the legendary 7750. It uses an integrated cam‑switched chronograph mechanism with a vertical stack of levers that engage and disengage the chronograph train through a heart‑shaped cam. The movement has a characteristic slightly firm pusher feel and a robust behaviour under repeated start‑stop cycles. For those familiar with the 7750 feel will be the usual. Although some prefer it like this, I find it a bit too stiff and giving a slightly imprecise handling when you come from a more modern design.

From a technical point of view, the SW510 uses an Incabloc anti‑shock system, a Nivaflex NM mainspring and a Nivatronic collet for the hairspring. The movement offers a quick-set date via the crown, small seconds at nine, a 30 minute counter at 3 o`clock. This calibre does not use a column wheel, so traditionalists who cherish the tactile refinement of the DOXA‘s original cal 287 will feel a slight pang of regret, but the cam system remains easier to manufacture, service and regulate, and several brands, including Sinn and Hanhart, have adopted SW510 successfully in demanding chronographs, which gives general confidence that DOXA picked a movement with proven reliability.

Notes: Some of you might be familiar with the Universal Geneve Calibre 287 – a vintage, manual-wind, column-wheel chronograph movement. It was primarily used in Universal Genève’s iconic mid-century watch lines, notably the Compax, Tri-Compax, Uni-Compax, and Aero Compax series. While Universal Genève’s Calibre 287 was based on a Martel ebauche, Doxa’s Calibre 287 was a custom-branded version of the high-grade Eberhard Calibre 310-82.

Case, bezel and wearability

With the calibre, 30 mm diameter and 7.9 mm height, limiting DOXA from going into more reduced exterior dimension, the steel case measures 42mm diameter, 14.6 mm thickness, 44.5 lug-to-lug while offering 200m water resistance. Excellent proportion, I would rather say, for a tool chrono watch sitting comfortably within serious / professional dive territory…. DOXA fits a sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective coating, a screw‑down crown, simple round pushers and a solid screw‑in caseback with DOXA sailing boat logo embossed.

The bezel remains one of the brand’s signature elements: a stainless steel, unidirectional rotating ring with DOXA’s decompression scale that shows both dive time in minutes and depth in metres, allowing you to monitor no‑decompression limits using a quick glance rather than carrying a separate table. The beads of rice bracelet, a long‑standing DOXA trademark, uses gently rounded “rice” centre links surrounded by rectangular outer links, and it includes a folding clasp with a ratcheting extension. It gives the watch a certain retro charm and, more importantly, distributes weight evenly, so the 42 millimetre case does not feel top‑heavy. Owners who prefer a lighter setup have the choice of the rubber strap options, available in tone‑on‑tone colours for Professional and Caribbean or in black for Sharkhunter and Searambler.

The watch, on the heavy side if you are not used to full metal bracelets, sits firmly but surprisingly controlled on an average wrist, mine being 18 – 18.5 cm (or 7 – 7.2″ for the other side of the pond). The watch machining feels crisp, and the grip clearly prioritises wet‑hand operation over sleek aesthetics, which is exactly what I want on a watch that claims professional dive credentials. The simple pushers flanking the crown are not screw‑down and that decision follows a decent compromise: it keeps the profile from becoming too cluttered and it simplifies the chronograph use at the surface, though it does mean that you must remember not to operate the chronograph underwater, a limitation that experienced divers already accept with most chronographs.

Ending notes and pricing

I consider that the DOXA SUB 200 T.GRAPH II makes sense on your wrist if you actually intend to use it as both diver and everyday chronograph. Otherwise you can go to a slimmer SUB 200T or for a chrono without diver pedigree. The movement choice feels honest, the dial stays legible and characterful, and the case refinement significantly improves wearability without diluting the recognisable T.Graph silhouette. I would still love to see DOXA experiment with slightly thinner cases or perhaps a hand‑wound variant that nods more directly to the original cal 287, but in the real world the SUB 200 T.Graph II delivers a robust, colourful dive chronograph with a clear functional philosophy and enough personality to stand out in a crowded market. If you already know DOXA’s SUB line and you crave a chronograph this watch deserves a serious look and, ideally, a proper swim.

Price inevitably shapes how we first perceive a watch like this, especially when DOXA historically occupied the more accessible end of Swiss dive watch territory. The official retail price sits at CHF 3,690, EUR 3,990 or USD 4,290 on bracelet, with the rubber strap options priced slightly lower at CHF 3,650, EUR 3,950 or USD 4,250. The SUB 200 T.Graph II is placed in a market segment where buyers can choose from numerous Swiss and non-Swiss chronographs, some with column wheel movements or higher depth ratings, so DOXA relies heavily on its unique mix of history, decompression bezel and colourful identity to make the value argument.

DOXA SUB 200 T.GRAPH II technical Specifications

• 806.10.351.10 – Professional Orange dial, stainless steel beads‑of‑rice bracelet. CHF 3,690 / EUR 3,990 / USD 4,290
• 806.10.351.21 – Professional Orange dial, orange rubber strap. CHF 3,650 / EUR 3,950 / USD 4,250
• 806.10.101.10 – Sharkhunter Black dial, stainless steel beads‑of‑rice bracelet. CHF 3,690 / EUR 3,990 / USD 4,290
• 806.10.101.20 – Sharkhunter Black dial, black rubber strap. CHF 3,650 / EUR 3,950 / USD 4,250
• 806.10.021.10 – Searambler Silver sunburst dial, stainless steel beads‑of‑rice bracelet. CHF 3,690 / EUR 3,990 / USD 4,290
• 806.10.021.20 – Searambler Silver sunburst dial, rubber strap. CHF 3,650 / EUR 3,950 / USD 4,250
• 806.10.201.10 – Caribbean Blue dial, stainless steel beads‑of‑rice bracelet. CHF 3,690 / EUR 3,990 / USD 4,290
• 806.10.201.32 – Caribbean Blue dial, blue rubber strap. CHF 3,650 / EUR 3,950 / USD 4,250

Indications

• Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph

Movement

• Swiss automatic Sellita SW510 mechanical movement
• DOXA decoration
• 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
• Power reserve: approximately 56 hours

Case

• 316L stainless steel
• Dimensions: 42 mm × 44.5 mm
• Thickness: 14.6 mm
• Crystal: sapphire, anti-reflective coating
• Lug width: 20 mm
• Screw-down crown
• Stainless steel screw-in caseback
• Water resistance: 20 ATM / 200 meters / approx. 656 feet
• Bezel: Stainless steel with Unidirectional rotation

Dial

• Four color options (Professional orange, Searambler sunburst silver, Sharkhunter black, Caribbean dark blue)
• Date window at 6 o’clock
• Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 9 o’clock
• Painted indices with Super-LumiNova®
• Hands with Super-LumiNova®
• Painted outer minute track

Bracelet/Strap

• Stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet with folding clasp; wetsuit extension
• Rubber strap, black (or color-matched to the dial for Professional and Caribbean), with folding clasp; wetsuit extension

Official images