To justify why I chose for today a watch released in 2015 I will explain my thoughts chain, my recipe: I wanted a complex complication – tourbillon; I wanted to have at least one complication more, not to be boring – open point; I wanted a case that can fit well on my wrist but at the same time light and robust – titanium maybe, 38 – 42mm diameter; I wanted a clean, simple dial with a sober look; I wanted it to be an independent Haute Horlogerie creation. So there it was – the Endeavour Tourbillon Dual Time from H. Moser & Cie.
The Ref. 1802-0500 is a perfect watch, it has everything that I want plus something more: it’s automatic and it has a black case. So, how should I describe the feeling, the perfection? I will take every piece of it and I will try to say what I see, what I feel. I think it’s the only way.
I will start with the dial: – the H.Moser&Cie dials always intrigued me. The disarming simplicity of the sunburst pattern on the Rhodium-plated fumé stands out. The applied baton indexes fit gorgeous the watch’s face and make a lovely contrast. The black printed calligraphic logo is beautiful.
What’s not visible in the pictures is the hidden third hand, which is red and indicates the second time zone. The dual time zone hand can be retracted under the hour’s hand, is very useful for those who travel a lot but don’t want a busy dial.
The most important part the dial is the open window at 6 o’clock wich reveals the Moser interchangeable one-minute Tourbillon Module (an ingenious modular system for the ease and accuracy of assembly and service). Just above the “Swiss Made” writings start the skeletonized tourbillon bridges that offer an unobstructed view of the watch’s heart. The finishes and the view are great.
The movement powering this dark beauty is the in-house caliber HMC 802: an automatic 34mm diameter, 6.5mm height with a bi-directional pawl-winding system and 18-carat red gold rotor skeletonized and engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. company hallmark. The bidirectional winding is very useful especially when the number of wrist movements is low. On the rotor is engraved the number of the watch x of 20 – this timepiece is a limited edition of 20 pieces.
The HMC 802 movement is beautifully decorated with côtes de Genève and bevelled edges. The main plate has a visible horizontally brushed finish and the screws are highly polished. All the wheels and pinions feature the Moser’s teeth.
An important aspect of the tourbillon is that it uses an original Straumann Double Hairspring®, created by the H. Moser’s sister company, Precision Engineering in 2007. The beating heart of 3Hz / 21600vph can be powered for 3 days – perfect when you have a weekend off and you don’t want to take care of the watch on Monday morning.
This watch comes with a three-part DLC-treated titanium case with 40.8mm diameter and a height of 11.3mm, an anti-reflexive sapphire crystal on top and a see-through with sapphire crystal fixed with four Moser screws on the bottom.
“Once again, the manufacture is making a bold statement using DLC-treated polished titanium for its Endeavour collection, … Light, scratch-resistant, hypo-allergenic and easy to wear, this material enhances the shapes of the Endeavour model and magnifies its finishes. Although titanium is particularly difficult to work, traditional watchmaking techniques were used in its treatment, respecting the alternating satin-finished and polished surfaces on the flanks of the case, an integral part of the H. Moser DNA.” – H.Moser&Cie Website
To complete the overall aspect, the watches is equipped with a black alligator leather strap with a carbon-effect finish and a pin buckle in DLC-treated titanium with engraved Moser logo.
This timepiece is not just a good child, it’s a robust prodigy with hidden talents coming from an independent reputable house and having big ambitions.
The recommended price for this Endeavour Tourbillon Dual Time is 71,500 Euro and it’s available in one of the Official Retailers.
Please visit the H. Moser & Cie website for more information. I would like to thank H. Moser & Cie for the information and images.