Baselworld 2019: Tudor watches novelties

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This year, Tudor spoils us with some interesting timepieces: a prototype inspired watch, a fantastic chronograph, a dark but cool bronze Black Bay and a gold bezel Black Bay in three case dimensions. Please have a look at the press release below.

Tudor Black Bay P01

TUDOR introduces the Black Bay P01, a watch based on a legendary prototype developed in the late 1960s and proposed to the US Navy, and in so doing lifts the veil on a little-known aspect of its history.

Why this watch

In 1967, TUDOR, who had been supplying the US Navy with divers’ watches since the late 1950s, began development of a technical model to replace the Oyster Prince Submariner 7928 reference, which was standard-issue at that time. This new watch needed to meet a set of specifications decreed by the American government and incorporated the results of the latest research into functionality and ergonomics carried out by the brand’s engineers. A development phase was launched which resulted in the production of prototypes, as well as a patent for a hitherto unseen function. This ambitious project, which carried the code name “Commando”, never came to fruition as the regular TUDOR divers’ watch, reference 7016, which replaced reference 7928 in the TUDOR catalogue, was eventually adopted by the US Navy. In 2019, the TUDOR Black Bay P01 model – which stands for prototype 1 – is inspired by a prototype developed as part of this study and kept in the brand’s archives, only to have its unique aesthetic brought to life and mass-produced 50 years later.

Key Points

42mm satin steel case with winding crown positioned at 4 o’clock
Hinged end-link with rotating bezel blocking system
Manufacture Calibre MT5612, COSC-certified with silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve
“Snowflake” hands, a signature of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969

What’s more

THE PROTOTYPE SPIRIT

Crafted in a contemporary sport-lifestyle spirit, while at the same time adopting the principle of the winding crown at 4 o’clock and the prominent end-links of the 1960s model, the Black Bay P01 reflects the exploratory nature of the project, a cross between a divers’ watch and a sailing watch. The hinged end-link system on the period prototype was the subject of a patent in 1968, which covered a locking and dismantling system for the bezel to aid maintenance of the watch. The Black Bay P01 model does not literally reproduce this mechanism but borrows liberally from it, providing a stop system for the bidirectional rotating bezel via a mobile end-link at 12 o’clock. Black Bay P01 is waterproof to 200 metres and features hours, minutes, seconds and date functions. It is fitted with a domed matt-black dial with painted luminescent hour markers. Respecting the utilitarian aesthetic of the prototype that inspired it, the case is entirely satin-brushed for a matt finish.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5612

The Manufacture Calibre MT5612 that drives the Black Bay P01 model displays the hours, minutes, seconds and date functions. Its finishes are typical of TUDOR’s Manufacture calibres. Its openwork rotor is satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and plate have alternating polished sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations. Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity and reliability, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge fixed in two-points. Thanks to these qualities, together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Calibre MT5612 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Finally, with a 70-hour power reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to re-set and wind it

What’s even more

A HYBRID LEATHER AND RUBBER STRAP

The strap developed for the Black Bay P01 model is a rubber base with “snowflake” motif on the back, finished with a brown leather trim. In the spirit of the period prototype, mobile satin-brushed steel attachments connect the strap to the watch case.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

Like all other models in the Black Bay line, the P01 adopts the TUDOR hands with their characteristic angular shape, known to collectors as “snowflake”, which appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. The result of subtle combinations of historical aesthetic codes and contemporary watchmaking, the Black Bay line is far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic. It brings together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches, while remaining firmly anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s most rigorous requirements.

THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH

The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954, with the launch of reference 7922. It was the first in a long line of divers’ watches and was waterproof to 100 metres. This accessible, high-performance, robust watch fully expressed the brand’s “tool-watch” philosophy. The sixty years that followed the launch of the original 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch, and each model gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the greatest navies in the world.

Watch technical data

REFERENCE 70150

CASE

42 mm steel case

With satin finish

BEZEL

60-notch, 12-hour graduated steel bidirectional rotating bezel with stop system for the bidirectional rotating bezel via a mobile end-link at 12 o’clock

WINDING CROWN

Screw-down steel winding crown at 4 o’clock, with the TUDOR rose in relief

DIAL

Black, domed

Date at 3 o’clock

CRYSTAL

Domed sapphire crystal

WATERPROOFNESS

Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)

BRACELET

Rubber strap trimmed with brown leather with folding clasp and safety catch, entirely satin-finished

Movement technical data

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5612 (COSC)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional motor system

POWER RESERVE
Approximately 70 hours

PRECISION
Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute)

FUNCTIONS
Central hour, minute and second hands
Stop seconds for precise time setting
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock with rapid adjustment without non-correction range

OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)

TOTAL DIAMETER
31.8 mm

THICKNESS
6.5 mm

JEWELS
26 jewels

Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G

The first TUDOR chronograph, with a self-winding Manufacture Calibre, column wheel and vertical coupling is now available in an S&G version.

Why this watch

Since the presentation of TUDOR’s first chronograph in 1970, of the Prince Oysterdate, the brand has always produced watches that are closely tied to the world of motorsports. In the same way, since 1954 TUDOR has been constantly improving its professional divers’ watches. The daringly hybrid Black Bay Chrono S&G chronograph (S&G stands for Steel & Gold) combines this aquatic heritage, represented by the Black Bay family, with the queen of the racetrack, the chronograph, for a precious sporty-chic result with an undeniable touch of nostalgia.

Key Points

Fixed bezel in yellow gold with a black anodised aluminium insert and tachymetric scale
“Snowflake” hands, a signature of TUDOR divers’ watches, introduced in 1969
Manufacture chronograph Calibre MT5813, COSC-certified with silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve, column wheel and vertical coupling
Three strap options: jacquard fabric, bund leather or “riveted” steel

What’s more

THE SPIRIT OF LAND AND SEA

Remaining faithful to the Black Bay aesthetic, the Black Bay Chrono S&G model makes the famous “snowflake” hands – the signature of TUDOR divers’ watches since 1969 – its own in a gold version refined for optimum readability against the domed matt-black dial. Its counters are hollowed and their champagne colour creates optimum contrast. Following the TUDOR chronograph tradition, a date aperture is positioned at 6 o’clock. The main Black Bay characteristics are retained, in a slim 41-millimetre steel case and equipped with yellow-gold pushers inspired by the very first generation of TUDOR chronographs. A fixed bezel in yellow gold with a black anodised aluminium insert and tachymetric scale completes the face of this elegant, sporty chronograph.

MANUFACTURE CHRONOGRAPH CALIBRE MT5813

With a 70-hour power reserve, a silicon balance spring and Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute certification, the Manufacture chronograph Calibre MT5813 that drives the Black Bay Chrono S&G model is a high-performance movement. It was designed in the purest watchmaking tradition, with a column-wheel mechanism and vertical coupling. In keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, it presents extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by an array of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products.

Derived from the Manufacture chronograph calibre Breitling 01, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and dedicated finishes, this movement is the result of a lasting collaboration between the two brands. They have chosen to pool their expertise in the design and production of certain mechanical movements, which they use jointly.

What’s even more

JACQUARD, STEEL OR BUND BRACELET

The fabric strap is one of the signatures of TUDOR, which remains one of the first watch brands to offer it. Woven on 19^th-century Jacquard looms by a 150-year-old family firm from the region of St-Etienne, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. The Black Bay Chrono model presents a black strap, chosen by TUDOR and woven by the firm. The model is also available with a steel and yellow gold bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of TUDOR watches produced in the 1950’s and 60’s. These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links, shown on the side of the bracelet as well as a stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the new model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links. Finally, in a spirit of 1970’s racing, the Black Bay Chrono offers a bund type option in brown aged leather with ecru stitching and a folding clasp.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

Like other models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Chrono S&G model features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced in the 1950’s. It also adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, the large winding crown, characteristic of the first generation of TUDOR divers’ watches, is also adopted in this model.

The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches and yet remains firmly anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s most rigorous requirements.

Watch technical data

REFERENCE 79363N

CASE

41 mm steel case

With polished and satin finish

BEZEL

Fixed yellow gold bezel

with matt black anodised aluminium disc

with tachymetric scale, yellow gold markings

WINDING CROWN

Yellow gold screw-down winding crown

with the TUDOR rose in relief,

Yellow gold screw-down pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock

DIAL

Black with champagne-coloured counters, domed

Date at 6 o’clock

CRYSTAL

Domed sapphire crystal

WATERPROOFNESS

Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)

BRACELET

Riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet, polished and satin finish,

or in brown leather,

with folding clasp and safety catch,

or black fabric strap with buckle

Additional bund strap in brown leather included in the box

Movement technical data

MOVEMENT

Manufacture Calibre MT5813 (COSC) with chronograph function

Self-winding mechanical chronograph movement with the bidirectional motor system

POWER RESERVE

Approximately 70 hours

PRECISION

Swiss chronometer

officially certified by the COSC

(Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute)

FUNCTIONS

Central hour and minute hands

Chronograph seconds in the centre

Chronograph 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock

Small seconds at 9 o’clock

Instantaneous date at 6 o’clock with rapid adjustment

Tudor Back Bay Bronze

The famous Black Bay Bronze model, winner of the “Petite Aiguille” prize at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and a symbol of TUDOR’s naval heritage, is now available in a new slate-grey model with shaded dial.

Why this watch

Following the introduction of the first bronze model in 2016, a Black Bay with a chocolate brown dial, TUDOR continues to explore this rare bronze material with its characteristic patina. A new colour scheme based on slate grey now embellishes the dial and bezel of this imposing divers’ watch, whose aesthetics change over time and whose naval inspiration can be found in every detail. The impressive Black Bay Bronze also offers high technical performance thanks to its Manufacture Calibre MT5601.

Key Points

Satin-brushed 43-mm bronze case whose colour will change according to the habits of the wearer.
Shaded slate-grey dial with applied hour markers and Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
Manufacture Calibre MT5601, COSC-certified with silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve.
“Snowflake” hands, a signature of TUDOR divers’ watches, introduced in 1969.

What’s more

A CASE THAT “CHANGES”

The central feature of the Black Bay Bronze model is its 43-millimetre bronze case, an aesthetic reference to the brass used in old ships and other diving equipment. This “living” metal, a high-performance aluminium-copper alloy used particularly in naval engineering for submerged parts that need to be highly resistant to corrosion, will produce a subtle, unique patina on every watch case, based on the wearer’s habits. In addition to a highly functional appearance, in line with the world to which it pays tribute, the Black Bay Bronze presents entirely satin-brushed finishes that guarantee homogeneous development of the patina.

The combination of a slate grey dial, shaded from the exterior to the centre, and a bezel coupled with gold accents found on the hands and hour markers completes the model’s aesthetics. The overall visual effect is that of a rich, patinated object that might have sailed the globe on its wearer’s wrist for years at a time, looking like it was “made” for the wearer and their lifestyle.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5601

The Manufacture Calibre MT5601 that drives the Black Bay Bronze model measures 33.8 millimetres, the widest diameter of all TUDOR’s calibres. It displays the hours, minutes and seconds functions, and its appearance and finishes are typical of TUDOR Manufacture calibres. Its openwork rotor is satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and plate have alternating polished sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations.

Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity and reliability, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Thanks to these qualities, together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the calibre is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Finally, with a 70-hour power reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to re-set and wind it.

What’s even more

A HISTORIC STRAP

In an aesthetic tribute to the brand’s naval heritage, TUDOR has identified the historic uses of its watches and reinterpreted them in its latest models. For example, the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise. One of them, found on a period divers’ watch kept in the brand’s archives, is made of elastic recovered from French rescue parachutes. This ultra-functional relic, recognisable by its gold-coloured thread, is the reference behind the slate grey woven jacquard strap available for the Black Bay Bronze. A second option is an aged slate-grey leather strap whose straight cut accentuates the rustic effect.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

Like other models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Bronze model features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced in the 1950’s. It also adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, the unprotected winding crown, like the holes drilled across the horns, are typical features of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.

Watch technical data

REFERENCE 79250BA

CASE

43 mm bronze case with satin finish

Bronze-coloured PVD-treated steel case back

BEZEL

Unidirectional rotatable bezel in bronze with 60-minute graduated disc in matt slate grey anodised aluminium

WINDING CROWN

Bronze screw-down winding crown, with an engraved TUDOR rose

DIAL

Slate grey, domed

CRYSTAL

Domed sapphire crystal

WATERPROOFNESS

Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)

BRACELET

Rounded black nubuck leather or slate grey fabric strap with bronze buckle

Movement technical data

MOVEMENT

Manufacture Calibre MT5601 (COSC)

Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional motor system

POWER RESERVE

Approximately 70 hours

PRECISION

Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute)

FUNCTIONS

Central hour, minute and second hands

Stop seconds for precise time setting

OSCILLATOR

Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw

Non-magnetic silicon balance spring

Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)

TOTAL DIAMETER

33.8 mm

THICKNESS
6.5 mm

JEWELS
25 jewels

Tudor BLACK BAY 32/36/41 S&G

TUDOR is expanding the offering of the Black Bay 32, 36 and 41 models, which are now all available in an S&G version with a new five-link yellow gold and steel bracelet, exclusive to these models.

Why this watch

Just as sporty and even more elegant than ever, the Black Bay 32/36/41 S&G (Steel & Gold) models retain the aesthetic features of the Black Bay line, together with the reliability and historical connection to TUDOR divers’ watches. In the same spirit as the brand’s previous S&G models, this introduction adds a precious quality to the timepiece. Combining polished steel and yellow gold satin-brushed surfaces offers a subtle contrast and distinction as well as warmth to the case and bracelet. The choice between a matt black or satin-brushed champagne-coloured dial allows the wearer to further refine the watch’s aesthetics, bringing distinction for the former and radiance for the latter

Key Points

Three diameters of yellow gold and steel case: 32 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm
New five-link yellow gold and steel bracelet
Two colour options for the dial: matt black or satin-brushed champagne-coloured
“Snowflake” hands, a signature of TUDOR divers’ watches, introduced in 1969

What’s more

A NEW BRACELET

The Black Bay 32/36/41 S&G line offers a new five-link yellow gold and steel bracelet, available exclusively with these models. The exterior links are satin-brushed yellow gold, while the central links are polished yellow gold. The two rows of intermediate links are satin-brushed steel. This supple, comfortable bracelet is dressy without being formal and is anchored in TUDOR traditions, playing with contrasting colours and finishes to bring a new style to the Black Bay 32/36/41 models.

What’s even more

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

Like other models in the Black Bay line, the 32, 36 and 41 S&G models feature a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced in the 1950’s. They adopt the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, the large winding crown, characteristic of the first generation of TUDOR divers’ watches, is also adopted in these new models.