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At Cartier, time is not only what we measure but what we treasure, something to make the most of in how it is filled and how it is represented. The strength of this vision drives all of the Maison’s research around time, from its formal representation to personal perception and the experience of the quality of time.

For Cartier, it’s time

Our creations place us in the immediate, the here and now. Cartier’s horological creations are capable of evolving and establishing themselves across time periods with a perpetual relevance. It is a question of mastery, translated into the most recent interpretations of iconic designs. The purity of form of the Tank and Pasha de Cartier will always be contemporary.

The Pasha de Cartier watch, overlaid with a geometric grille, returns to an embodiment of extravagant elegance. Meanwhile, the Tank de Cartier watch reveals itself in playing with intense colours that enhance its visual codes.

Cartier Tank

This year, the new Tank Louis Cartier watch displays a radical elegance, buoyed by the intensity of the monochrome dials: red, the Maison’s signature colour, and anthracite grey, a shade borrowed from the Cartier watchmaking palette. More radical, more intense; the third version of the Tank Louis Cartier complements this duo, with a model featuring a deep black dial.

Tank Louis Cartier

For Cartier, time is here and now. Pure lines, perfect form and precise proportions: these enduring watches stand out as readily in their own time as they will in the future. The Tank watch is a prime example of being utterly timeless.

From Tank to Tank Louis Cartier – revisiting an inspiration

Two signature brancards and a clean rectangle punctuating the strap: this is the Tank watch, created in 1917 and cherished generation after generation since. Like an idea with endless possibilities, or a “founding concept” according to Louis Cartier, it paved the way for many different versions.

In 1922, the design of the Tank watch was reworked: the case was elongated, the brancards were refined and the angles softened. The resulting Tank Louis Cartier would go on to borrow the monochrome dials of its sister and of the Tank Must, born in 1977.

In 2021, Cartier revealed a Tank Louis Cartier watch whose dial featured the rectangle-within-a-rectangle motif that first appeared on a Must de Cartier watch from the 1980s.

Red and grey – technical innovation and monochrome with a twist

This year, the Tank Louis Cartier watch brings with it a new radical elegance buoyed by the intensity of the monochrome dials: red, the Maison’s signature colour, and anthracite grey, a shade borrowed from the Cartier watchmaking palette. In addition to this, it has been further refined: from the twelve classic hour marks, just four remain and the rail track is absent.

Appearing monochrome at first glance, the Tank Louis Cartier watch, depending on the light and the way you view it, reveals a vibrancy that is rich in shade and depth. To achieve this effect, Cartier’s watchmaking craftsmen used—for the first time at Cartier — an innovative electrochemical engraving technique that allows for very high-precision markings: these almost invisible markings, carried out in different directions, form a group of sections and areas which recreates the graphic pattern featured on the dial of a Cartier Must watch from the 1980s. Techniques used for colouring differ: lacquer for the red dial and a galvanised finish for the grey dial. The dials are then enhanced with a glossy, multi-layered decal that accentuates the Roman numerals. The engraving creates reflective effects and optical variations that modify our very perception of colour.

The Tank Must meets black

Even more radical and intense, the third version of the Tank Louis Cartier complements this duo with its deep black dial. The bright lacquer contrasts with the radiance of the gold case.

A family affair, yes, but two watches with strong character nonetheless. Embodying the spirit of the 1970s and 80s, the Tank Must applies the visual style of the early Tank Louis Cartier watches to steel. This great aesthetic potential feeds the inspiration of Cartier’s watchmakers and inspires ongoing cycles of creative exploration.

Fully redesigned in 2021 to be as close as possible to the Tank Louis Cartier, the 2022 edition of the Tank Must features an all-black dial. Timeless, understated and mounted on steel, this is a watch rich in character and without distraction or compromise. This new version is now available in both small and large models.

The Pasha de Cartier Watch

Existing at a certain point in time is a delicate exercise. And this is all the more true when it comes to time travel. Utterly contemporary, despite debuting in the 1980s, the Pasha de Cartier watch is a timeless staple, a piece that transcends eras. It continues to inspire, boasting boundless creativity and an intelligent design that allows it to evolve while remaining in tune with the era in which it exists.

In 1985, the Pasha de Cartier watch was born. At the time, its name paid tribute to Pasha El Glaoui of Marrakesh, one of the Maison’s most loyal customers between 1920 & 1950 and a collector of watchmaking pieces. The design also echoes that of a watertight watch with a protective grid from 1943, kept in the Cartier Collection.

In 2022, the Pasha de Cartier Grille will take centre stage once more.
A benchmark watch whose grid makes it all the more unique.
Why? Because it reinforces the watch’s strong graphic signature, the square inside the circle and the four oversized Arabic numerals that it sits over and marks out. A grid whose design gives this character-rich watch a spectacular textured effect. Delicately recreated, it encases the dial. Moreover, its surface is entirely hand-polished.

How is it removable? The Manufacture has developed a new system supported by four tiny clasps with a very complex spring to scale. This allows it to be attached and detached with ease. The watch is easy to wear with or without it, for two different styles.

Pasha de Cartier watch charms

Inspired by the Maison’s historic charms, these small pendants with a double C, heart or eye motif multiply the desire to make your Pasha de Cartier watch unique. Three bold, desirable symbols that are entirely hand-polished and designed to personalise the wearer’s watch. Clipped on to the crown cover, they offer a departure from classic watch features. Jewellery joins the party, bringing exquisite, uncomplicated and creative style.

The Pasha de Cartier watch with complications (moonphase, skeleton and flying tourbillon)

Developed and produced at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Moonphase, Skeleton and Flying Tourbillon Pasha de Cartier watches feature three iconic movements.

A delicate moon-phase movement in the shape of a circle surrounded by a midnight-blue planisphere strewn with stars, which contrasts with the bold design of the Pasha de Cartier watch. Equipped with the Manufacture 1904 LU MC movement, the watch is available in an all-gold or steel version. Two versions of the same watch, with a blue marker on the dial framed in gold or steel to mark the time.

A signature skeleton movement, the 9524MC calibre features the Arabic numerals of the Pasha de Cartier watch.

It matches the unconventional diameter and design of the Pasha de Cartier watch and emphasises its strength, from the four oversized numbers to the square in the circle on the dial.

A watch available in two versions: a limited-edition white gold jewellery version paved with baguette-cut diamonds and a steel version with black ADLC for the case and Super-LumiNova® for the bridges and hands.

A signature complication of Cartier Fine Watchmaking, the Flying Tourbillon 9552 MC calibre, with hours and minutes: a signature complication of Cartier Fine Watchmaking, which fits perfectly into the overall aesthetic of the Pasha de Cartier watch.

Made in rose gold with a 41 mm-diameter and leather strap, this Flying Tourbillon – made to equip the Pasha de Cartier – stands out thanks to its cage signed with a C.

The cult Pasha de Cartier is available in colour

An anthracite dial that enhances the strong codes of the original Pasha de Cartier watch and that plays on the contrasts of the chronograph version with its characteristic push-pieces.

Santos Dumont

As a tribute to the historical model, the Santos-Dumont collection adds three new versions to its repertoire of elegance. Three lacquer watches that elevate the style and spirit so dear to the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.

The Santos Dumont Collection is enriched by three new limited edition pieces

As a tribute to the historical model, the Santos-Dumont collection adds three new versions to its repertoire of elegance. Three lacquer watches that elevate the style and spirit so dear to the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.

Style is the hallmark of Alberto Santos-Dumont, a pioneer of the sky known for his impeccable dress sense on all occasions. With his waistcoat, wing collar, trousers with large turn-ups and backward facing flat cap, this prince of aviation favours elegance, simplicity and practicality.
These were the three main principles of Alberto Santos-Dumont, who ordered the first modern wristwatch from Louis Cartier in 1904.

Updated in 2018, the Santos-Dumont watch is faithful to the pure design of the original model. It is the focus of a collection enriched this year with three new refined and very exclusive watches which cultivate the elegance inherited from Alberto Santos-Dumont.

These three colour variations in burgundy and platinum, beige and gold or black and steel are coated with a thin layer of lacquer, then smoothed and polished by hand. Everything hinges on the finesse of this translucent lacquer, which adds brilliance, relief and depth to the colours of the dial.

Delicate knowledge at the service of a subtle and sophisticated aesthetic that perpetuates the heritage of this great watchmaking classic.

Panthère de Cartier

The Panthère de Cartier is the Maison’s quintessential jewellery watch. The watch takes its name from the bracelet: its ultra-flexible structure echoes the animal’s movements. This style icon has now inspired Cartier to create four new versions in rose gold, yellow gold and steel, with a sophisticated silky dial in shades of golden plum, gold, midnight blue and black.

Precious and colourful variations for the Panthère de Cartier

The Panthère de Cartier is the Maison’s quintessential jewellery watch. Cartier’s emblematic, radiant design reactivates its vibrant energy through four different coloured satin dials.

Panthère: the watch takes its name from the bracelet. Its ultra-flexible structure echoes the animal’s movements. Formed from a series of curved and polished links, it is remarkably supple.

Launched in 1983, the Panthère watch has been highly acclaimed since its creation. Above and beyond its design, this watch slinks onto the skin in a rippling celebration of triumphant and carefree femininity. A state of mind embodied by the vibrant and sophisticated icons of the 80s and continued today by a whole new generation of personalities with strong character.

This style icon has now inspired Cartier to create four new versions in rose gold, yellow gold and steel, with a silky dial in shades of golden plum, midnight blue and black. Four diagonally crossed dials reverse the play of light and reflect the brilliance of the iridescent and subtle gradations. A precious luminosity that adds to the jewel-like quality of the most feline watch in the Maison’s repertoire.

Time, at Cartier, is warped

It stretches and reforms itself, constantly changing and pushing into new territories of inspiration. Cartier recognises the value of this time spent searching. The result is always arresting: the language of Cartier design, born over a century of horological advances, enriches itself in the vocabulary of today. Each singular creation establishes its own identity, while maintaining its link with Cartier heritage. This prowess is felt in the exquisitely soft bounce of the paved stone case of the Coussin de Cartier watch; the tactile pleasure of wearing Cartier Libre, a creation that unites the intricacies of watchmaking and high jewellery.

Coussin de Cartier

The Coussin de Cartier watch is made for evening wear, where it causes a sensation. A flexible watch made up of gold links that intertwine to weave a grid pattern in which Cartier has integrated an innovative element. This allows the case to deform and retract to its original shape. The Coussin watch is sensory on all levels. Beyond the sense of touch, the sight is electrified by the iridescence of diamonds and coloured stones.

Time for Cartier is a playground. A chance to explore new territories and constantly reinvent the Maison’s stylistic grammar. This year, it is time for the classic cushion shape to undergo the process. The Coussin de Cartier watch is made for going out in the evening where it causes a sensation. This watch is part of a collection consisting of gold and diamond versions, two-tone versions, and finally, more experimental versions, delicate watches paved with coloured stones or diamonds.

Gold and Dimond versions that introduce a triangular setting

C

The Coussin de Cartier watch is above all a square hemmed with diamonds set in a spiral. Everything lies in the padded shape of the case, featuring stones of different diameters that accentuate the movement, with strong and graphic gold edges that emphasise its allure. This visual sensation is based on the Maison’s savoir-faire. This was a chance for the workshops to introduce a triangular setting that allows the diamonds to be directly integrated into the case without using the traditional grain setting. The metal disappears to reveal the stone’s beauty and intensify its luminosity.

Two-tone versions that dare to invert the stones

In its two-tone version, the watch makes the chromatic choice of the duo. Two colours for the stones that Cartier inverts. Diamonds and black spinels, Paraiba tourmalines and tsavorites, the pavilion becomes a stud, a decorative element. Once again, this is an innovative, meticulous and technical setting for the Maison’s craftsmen. The result is strong and textured, that of a jewellery watch with character.

Limited edition: delicate and innovative versions

The Coussin de Cartier watch also comes in two limited editions from the Cartier Manufacture’s research and innovation laboratory. A creative unit that designed a soft case, flexible to the touch and entirely paved with diamonds or coloured stones, emeralds, tourmalines, tsavorites and sapphires.

A delicate watch made up of gold links that intertwine to weave a grid pattern within which Cartier has integrated an innovative element. This allows the case to deform and retract to its original shape.

Unprecedented at Cartier, the wide variety of diameters and the shades of stones makes this process even more difficult. This approach is made all the more complex by the fact that the watch is flexible, requiring the watchmaker to seal it with a resin before releasing it. The Coussin watch is sensory on all levels. Beyond the sense of touch, the sight is electrified by the iridescence of diamonds and coloured stones.

Cartier Libre

Inspired by the spectacular rock crystal and diamond bracelet created in the 1930s and worn by actress Gloria Swanson, this jewellery watch embodies Cartier’s creative freedom. Entirely reversible, it can be turned over thanks to a flexible elasticated strap: on the front, it is a watch, and on the back, it is a bracelet.

Cartier Libre Collection

For Cartier, time provides the opportunity to explore new territories and to continuously reinvent the Maison’s stylistic codes.

Each year, the Cartier Libre collection adds a unique watch, crafted with full creative freedom, to its repertoire.

Inspired by the spectacular rock-crystal and diamond bracelet created in the 1930s and worn by actress Gloria Swanson, this jewellery watch embodies Cartier’s creative freedom.

• Entirely reversible, it can be turned over thanks to a flexible elasticated strap: on the front, it is a watch, and on the back, it is a bracelet.
• The exquisite craftsmanship and character of this hybrid jewel/watch creation consists of a series of triangular links with triangular motifs running through it. This continuously repeating sequence of forms allows the colours to infinitely
  diffract light.

A design true to Cartier’s signature style

This watch embodies Cartier’s signature style in that it transforms and can be worn in two ways. Through this modularity, Cartier removes the barriers between watches and jewellery—the jewellery becomes a watch and vice versa. The design required the watchmakers to find new solutions; to allow the case to twist around a specially developed spring and additionally integrate the redesigned time-setting system at the side, to avoid distorting the triangular effect of the watch.

Innovative triangular setting

In terms of jewellery craftsmanship, the geometric approach to the motif is further emphasised by the new triangular setting developed by the Maison. This allows the diamonds to be directly integrated into the case without using the traditional grain setting. By virtue of this, the metal disappears and the beauty of the stones is accentuated.

The Collection

A limited-edition piece, this fourth opus from the Cartier Libre collection is available in three versions based around Cartier’s iconic colour palette. One in black and white, with spinels and diamonds; one in contrasting colours, with rose gold, black spinels, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds; and finally, one with garnets, black spinels, moonstones and diamonds.

Crash Métiers d’Art

Created in 1967, deep in the heart of Swinging London, the Crash de Cartier watch captures the vibrant energy of the city at the time. With its asymmetrical dial, it revolutionised the aesthetic codes of watchmaking. This year, craftsmen at the Maison des Métiers d’Art are exploring the dial’s potential and making it the source of creative expression of Cartier’s craftsmanship. The art of jewellery, combined with that of enamel taken to the highest level but also the choice of blue and green, Cartier’s signature colour combination.

Crash Tigrée Métamorphoses watch

For Cartier, time is a game. A domain of unlimited creativity to explore the range of its skills and research of its designs. To continuously expand its stylistic grammar with curiosity and open-mindedness.

Created in 1967, deep in the heart of Swinging London, the Cartier Crash watch captures the vibrant energy of the city at the time. With its asymmetrical dial, it revolutionised the aesthetic codes of watchmaking. Systematically released in a highly confidential series, it has the luxury of being exclusive.

This year, craftsmen at the Maison des Métiers d’Art are exploring the dial’s potential and making it the source of creative expression of Cartier’s craftsmanship. The creative challenge was ambitious: the volume of this singular watch had to be used to capture the organic and vivid character of its lines and evoke an animal presence. An abstract, evocative presence, inspired by African wildlife that is so dear to Cartier.

The impressive result inspired further interpretations: the tiger, crocodile, water or shell… Yet isn’t this also a metamorphosis? The diamonds appear to gradually cover the entire watch, leaving the precious metal on the bezel completely bare. Cartier creates these possibilities, and many more, depending on how one sees it.

Cartier offers us this complete freedom of interpretation by using the richness of its expertise and its stylistic grammar: the art of jewellery, combined with enamel at the highest level and the choice of blue and green, Cartier’s signature colour combination. To bring this watch to life, the craftsmen used several, often unprecedented, enamelling techniques. The enamel can be adapted according to the needs: sometimes opaque, sometimes translucent or used in gradations, but also worked on silver pailletes and engraving. All e ects are possible, with complete mastery.

On the bezel, the stripes are made of champlevé enamelling. The stripes are separated with lines of set diamonds to contrast and shine, and the winding crown is set with an inverted pavilion diamond – signature of the jeweller. The dial succeeds in combining artistic crafts used to make this watch: metal engraving, enamelling and setting. First engraved, the scale or stripe motifs are enamelled on silver pailletes. To make these shades of blue and green, the enameller uses cobalt oxide (for the blue) and copper oxide (for the green).

To enamel this piece, it needs to be put through the kiln more than 10 times between a temperature of 700°C to 750°C, depending on the desired colour. First the under-layers need to be worked on, followed by the enamel visible on the surface. These are manipulated according to firing temperatures, from highest to lowest: navy blue first, then turquoise, and finally translucent green.

A timepiece available in a limited edition of 50 individually numbered watches.

The Cartier Menagerie

At Cartier, time is expansive and polymorphous. Cartier’s vision is to make time a free domain, a place to explore and reveal its new facets, while it reinvents the language of its techniques and artistic crafts.

In this new edition of Watches&Wonders, Cartier’s craftsmen have combined their knowledge of enamel, marquetry and gold bead granulation.

They have drawn their inspiration from Cartier’s menagerie, more precisely from the great animals of Africa: the panther, the Maison’s emblematic feline since 1914, the girafe e and the zebra. Powerful and majestic animals, whose elegance is captured by enamellers and jewellers.

Three watches that combine Cartier’s expertise in craftsmanship with its dual approach to wildlife: figurative and abstract.

Ronde Louis Cartier Zebra and Giraffe Gold Bead Granulation and Marquetry Watch

An emblematic watch featuring the hyper-realistic black and white pro le of a zebra on one half of the dial, and an abstract motif evoking a gira e through its spotted coat on the other.

Zebra-girafe: a unique combination in which two chromatic universes (black and white, pink shades), two visions (figurative and abstract) and two techniques (marquetry and bead granulation) all come together. The marquetry first outlines, as close to reality as possible, the pro le of a zebra in mother-of-pearl and onyx.

Then, the gold bead granulation. Cartier’s craftsmen have used rose and yellow gold gradation for the first time to abstractly render the girafe e’s spotted coat. An ultra-mastered alchemy that forms an exceptional palette of rose and yellow gold shades using six gold alloys. Seven collet-set diamonds light up this grid-like jewellery structure.

The bezel combines several skills: the selection and setting of diamonds, sapphires and brilliant-cut garnets, the black lacquer of the zebra’s coat and the inverted pavilion diamond set on the crown.

This timepiece, available in a limited edition of 30 individually numbered watches, required more than 95 hours of work and 7 techniques.

Ronde Louis Cartier Gold Enamel Fragments and Gold Beads Watch

A design featuring patterns of fire and flames on a black background. The Maison des Métiers d’Art constantly explores the creative potential of Cartier’s eternal muse, the panther.

The animal’s pro le is cut out on a gold leaf only a few microns thick. This is then placed between several layers of black and translucent enamel, which hardens when fired.

Translucent pink enamel adds a warm and harmonious touch to the motif. The contrasting background adds intensity to the design. Minute variations of colour and forms are made with gold powder.

The dial needs to be put in the kiln between twelve to fifteen times at a temperature of almost 800°C, depending on the reaction of the enamel. Each time it is returned to the flame, the piece is at risk.

Enamelling this timepiece, available in a limited edition of 30 individually numbered watches, required more than 46 hours of work.

Ronde Louis Cartier Sparkling Panthère Marquetry Watch

It is there, watching us: the Maison’s emblematic panther, whose head takes shape between light and shadow in a wide array of sparkling colours.

Under the motif’s effect of the fragmentation of light, the craftsmen from the Maison des Métiers d’Art have given the animal a more masculine and graphic expression than ever before. To make this composition reflect the light, a gold grid and a geometric mesh were fashioned and then inlaid with over 120 tiny elements. Part of this grid is covered in an intense black to accentuate the chiaroscuro.

A vibrant blue colour is achieved by applying a pigmented layer on the background. When held up to the light, the material is brought to life and the colour intensifies, bringing out the warm tones of the marquetry.

Two pear-cut collet-set diamonds are used for the eyes and bring its gaze to life.

This marquetry is made of 124 elements: 16 blades of straw, 8 wooden components, 2 yellow and 34 white gold elements, 16 sapphire crystal fragments and 48 mother-of-pearl. A game of immense precision, requiring each element to be integrated one by one after 44 hours of marquetry work. Each piece required more than 10 techniques.
A timepiece available in a limited edition of 30 individually numbered watches.

Time, for Cartier, is immaterial

Impossible to encapsulate yet contained within the Maison’s creations. The Maison has explored the mystery of time for over a century; the Mysterious clocks and skeleton movements were made to delight and engage, demonstrating the physical reality of an illusory dimension. Today, the floating demi-circle of inner workings of the Masse Mystérieuse simultaneously offers a transparent view, while paradoxically adding a layer of mystery.

Cartier Privé

The Cartier Privé collection, a meeting between collectors, celebrates the Maison’s iconic models through limited edition numbered watches, rare watches that bridge the gap between Cartier’s watchmaking heritage and today’s aesthetic vision. After the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, Tank Asymétrique and Cloche de Cartier watches, the Tank Chinoise watch will mark the sixth chapter of Cartier Privé. Today, the Tank Chinoise watch reveals the mystery of the skeleton movement within its new rectangular dial.

For Cartier, time is a mystery: in its representation and in the perception we have of it. Cartier watches are precious objects that constantly renew and explore our way of understanding time. Thanks to the extraordinary expertise of the Maison’s watchmakers, all techniques are eclipsed, allowing us the simple contemplation of suspended time – Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise.

Each year, the Cartier Privé collection, a celebration of collectors, celebrates the Maison’s iconic models through limited edition numbered watches, rare watches that bridge the gap between Cartier’s watchmaking heritage and today’s aesthetic vision. After the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, Tank Asymétrique and Cloche Cartier watches, the Tank Chinoise watch will mark the sixth chapter of Cartier Privé.

Tank Chinoise

Made in 1917 by Louis Cartier and sold two years later, the Tank is one of the most remarkable watches of the Maison and indeed in the history of watchmaking. Since its creation, the accuracy of its design and the timelessness of its pure lines have made it a watch capable of passing through time, maintaining its relevance as it continually evolves.

Made in 1917 by Louis Cartier and sold two years later, the Tank is one of the most remarkable watches of the Maison and indeed in the history of watchmaking. Since its creation, the accuracy of its design and the timelessness of its pure lines have made it a watch capable of passing through time, maintaining its relevance as it continually evolves.

The Tank Chinoise aesthetics pay tribute to the architecture of Chinese temples and the geometry of their porticos, which, for the Tank Chinoise, Cartier transposes into horizontal bars placed on vertical bars. This unique watch, which will celebrate its 100th anniversary this year, has inspired numerous models but it has not been redesigned since 2004, except in the Cartier Libre versions.

Two new models

Today, the Tank Chinoise watch reveals the mystery of the skeleton movement within its new rectangular dial.

A signature complication of the Maison that watchmakers have adapted to the case of a gold watch. The open-worked dial reveals the workings of the movement, much like traditional Chinese windows. Inspired by Chinese savoir-faire, the black and red lacquer brings both preciousness and the effect of depth. The 9627 MC skeleton movement of the watch was developed by Cartier exclusively for this Tank Chinoise.

This spectacular watch is complemented by a large and understated hour-minute version in platinum, yellow gold or rose gold, with horizontal bevelled-edge bars. It beats to the rhythm of the 430 MC movement which is currently the Maison’s finest mechanical movement.

Masse Mystérieuse

A new Cartier Fine Watchmaking enigma: the Masse Mystérieuse. A spectacular watch that turns to the rhythm of an innovative movement, created by the Fine Watchmaking Manufacture. What is the ‘mystery’? Its beating heart, the magic of a mobile calibre condensed into a semi-circle, transformed into a skeletonised oscillating weight. The result of nearly eight years of work at the Cartier Manufacture, where it was designed, developed, manufactured and assembled, this movement has now been the subject of a patent application. Everything, including the most advanced techniques, is designed around the aesthetics.

At Cartier, time is not only an objective fact, but also, and above all, a mystery that the Maison continues to explore. Everything, including the most advanced techniques, are designed around the aesthetics allowing our mysterious complications to play with illusion and the perception of time.

New Fine Watchmaking enigma at Cartier: the Masse Mystérieuse.
A spectacular watch that turns to the rhythm of an original movement created by the Fine Watchmaking Manufacture. What is the ‘mystery’? Its beating heart, the magic of a mobile calibre condensed into a semi-circle, transformed into a skeletonised oscillating weight.

Two Maison signatures

The Masse Mystérieuse watch brings together two of the Maison’s watchmaking signatures: the mysterious movement and the skeleton. Everything, right down to the technology, is infused with design and aesthetics. Since the mystery clocks first appeared in the 1910s, the movement has not only been miniaturised to fit watch cases but, for this new creation, it has also been reimagined to make the oscillating weight a real ornament.

A new movement, the result of eight years of research

The new calibre 9801 MC ensures the effects of gravity do not affect the chronometer. The result of nearly eight years of work at the Cartier Manufacture, where it was designed, developed and assembled, this movement has now been filed for a patent. It took five different constructions before a prototype could be launched, with two further prototypes needed to develop the final version of the calibre.

On the Masse Mystérieuse watch, the hands float in the space of the case, without being connected to any gears. More than that: the whole movement also seems weightless. All components that receive energy from the movement, transmission and regulation are integrated in the rotor. The rotor itself is skeletonised to make this moving spectacle visible. In the centre, an ultra-sophisticated differential system – borrowed from the automotive industry – has been integrated into the movement to prevent the time display from being caught in the mass.

A technical feat that comes to life at the slightest touch of the wearer and seamlessly displays the time to the rhythm of the hands in the void. On this piece, the most technical and complex piece ever developed by the Manufacture’s watchmakers, the mysterious rotor uses an innovative principle that ensures the balance wheel always remains in the same vertical position. For this to happen, the rotor rotates in both directions at an irregular speed.

A brief history of the mystery

Mystery clocks make up their own chapter in the Maison’s history. We say “mystery” because their hands appear to float over the transparent body of the clock, with no connection to the movement. The first Cartier mystery clocks were introduced in 1912. They bear witness to Cartier’s aesthetic vision and made the Maison famous in the early 20th century. These “miracles of timekeeping”, as they were called by the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton in 1925, are the fruit of collaboration between Louis Cartier and an exceptional clockmaker, Maurice Couet. The latter was not even 25 years old when he was first noticed by Cartier, and was already highly experienced. From 1911, he became Cartier’s exclusive supplier.

The first mystery clock, dubbed Model A, left the workshops in 1912. Maurice Couet took his inspiration from the clocks of the famous illusionist and father of modern magic, Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin. The principle, which he adapted and developed, is based on an ingenious concept: the hands are not directly linked to the movement, but are attached to two crystal discs fitted with serrated metal edges. Activated by the movement, which is usually housed in the clock’s base, these discs then turn the hands, one for the minutes hand and the other for the hours hand. So that the illusion is perfect, the edges of the discs are concealed by the hour circle.

Other releases

Santos de Cartier

Large model, 47.5 x 39.8mm, thickness: 9.37mm
Steel
Bezel in blue PVD.
Crown set with a blue synthetic faceted spinel.
Interchangeable QuickSwitch steel bracelet and rubber strap.

Indomptables De Cartier

Indomptables De CartierWatch

22.2mm, thickness: 7.55mm
Yellow gold 750/1000
Case, crocodile and panther heads, dial and bracelet
set with 686 brilliant-cut diamonds (7.59 cts),
255 brilliant-cut emeralds,
2 pear-shaped emeralds,
2 rubies cabochon,
12 black spinels and black lacquer

Indomptables De CartierWatch

22.2mm, thickness: 7.55mm
Rhodium-finished white gold 750/1000
Case, zebra and panther heads, dial and bracelet
set with 919 brilliant-cut diamonds (9.14 cts),
2 emeralds cabochon,
2 pear-shaped emeralds,
46 black spinels,
4 onyx and black lacquer

Indomptables De CartierWatch

22.2mm, thickness: 7.55mm
Yellow gold 750/1000
Case, tiger and panther heads, dial and bracelet
set with 774 brilliant-cut diamonds (8.43 cts),
4 pear-shaped emeralds,
187 yellow sapphires,
23 orange spessartites,
48 black spinels and black lacquer

Ballon Bleu de Cartier

36mm, thickness: 12.05mm
Mechanical movement with automatic winding

Time, for Cartier, is out of time

Free of all constraints. Guaranteeing the precision of its measurements is simply the beginning of the watchmakers’ duty. Cartier goes further, overtaking this notion to explore new creative fields. This vision of time is carried through the emblematic Panthère, who celebrates ornate savoirfaire and liberated femininity as much as the precision of the watches she adorns. Her concept of time is a flowing succession of experiences, represented by a precious object that both ornaments and transforms.

Ultimately, time is a dimension of freedom where the Maison can push internal and external boundaries – of possibility, of taste, of identity. This vision is the source of its singularity, audacity and insatiable curiosity.