Christie’s Watches NYC presents: Cartier London’s late 60s-early 70s aesthetic and an Andy Warhol Patek Philippe

New York, 27 November 2023 – This coming December 5^th, a very special collection awaits the discerning watch collector and enthusiast at the Christie’s New York Important Watches live auction. Like no other object, exceptional timepieces represent a marvel of meticulous craftsmanship and aesthetic beauty. When they are from the past, they become time machines. In the case of this carefully curated selection of 107 lots, they open worlds – as the hotbed of creativity that was Andy Warhol’s ‘Factory’ or the exquisite style of London in the late 60s and 70s. In addition to these treasures, highlights include one of the most important wristwatches of our time, a Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon as well as rare creations by independent watchmakers such as F.P.Journe, MB&F, De Bethune and Grönefeld.

Lot 89: Patek Philippe Ref. 3448 Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases, 18K gold ‘Andy Warhol’, 1977. Estimate: US$ 350,000-600,000

A highly desirable and rare vintage wristwatch in itself, this superb Patek Philippe Reference 3448 also has the distinction of having been previously owned by Andy Warhol, one of the most famous and influential artists of the 20th century, and an avid collector himself. Collectors today place a high premium on uniqueness and distinctiveness of ownership, especially when it comes to the sophisticated realm of intricate Patek Philippe creations. This particular timepiece, with its Andy Warhol provenance, is one of the most personal and elusive of the eminent classics to be auctioned. The watch is in superb overall condition. Featuring a last series dial with a satin opaline finish, a hallmark of Stern Frères, it displays the ‘Aprior’ trademark on either side of ‘Swiss’ at 6 o’clock. Introduced in 1962, the Reference 3448 was the market’s first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch. Scholarly sources indicate that only 586 units were produced: approximately 450 in yellow gold, about 130 in white gold, two in platinum, and one in rose gold. This model was equipped with the revered calibre 27-460, recognized as one of the most advanced and opulently crafted automatic movements ever developed.

Spotlight: the eternal style of Cartier

With interest growing in the rare models made by Cartier’s London workshops, during the 1960s and 70s, Christie’s New York is delighted to present two fine examples of Cartier design, craftsmanship, and watchmaking from that particularly sought-after era.

Lot 92 – Cartier ‘Tank Louis’ ultra-thin, case and bracelet in 18K gold, signed Cartier London, 1971.
Estimate: US$ 15,000-25,000

The iconic Cartier Tank is universally acknowledged as one of the most recognizable and desirable wristwatches in the world. Since its debut in 1918, the ‘Tank’ has inspired numerous iterations, yet among the rarest is the London-crafted Tank Louis ‘Ultra-Thin’ model. Bearing the London hallmark from 1971, this model hails from a time when Cartier’s London ateliers were renowned for their exquisitely handcrafted interpretations of Cartier’s iconic designs. These ‘Cartier London’ pieces now hold a special allure for collectors. This particular Tank Louis ‘ultra-thin is remarkably slender at just 4.5 mm in thickness, giving the watch a refined and contemporary profile. The case bears the London hallmarks that match those on the clasp of the herringbone patterned 18K gold bracelet of silken suppleness.

One of the great rarities among all Cartier Tanks, this London-made Tank Louis ‘Ultra-Thin’ from the early 1970s is a significant contender for any serious collector. Offered by a respected connoisseur and collector known for impeccable taste, this watch stands as a pinnacle of fashion, rarity, historical importance, and lineage.

Lot 93 – Cartier Baignoire Allongée Maxi Oval’, curved case in 18K gold, signed Cartier London, 1968.
Estimate: US$ 100,000-200,000

For aficionados and collectors of Cartier, watches that originated from the London ateliers hold an allure that is unparalleled. The Baignoire Allongée, an exquisite iteration of the fabled Baignoire, is an elongated version, earning it the sobriquet of ‘Maxi Oval.’ Meticulously handmade in a very limited edition, it has remained a rarity, with only 4 appearing at auction over the past 25 years.

Presented by a renowned collector for auction at Christie’s, this particular Baignoire Allongée is a prime example of Cartier’s most compelling and coveted designs. The substantial gold casing, bearing the full London hallmarks from 1968, and a matching numbered gold deployant clasp, make it an exquisite find.
The 1960s in London were a time of exhilarating innovation, and Jean-Jacques Cartier’s vision for the London workshops was to craft timepieces that mirrored the era’s vivacious character. The creations from this period, including the ‘Crash’ and this Baignoire Allongée, were not just ahead of their time; they were intentionally striking, standing in stark contrast to the conventional designs of the era.

These two timepieces from London’s swinging 60s captivate with a charm that springs from exceptional design and artisanship, true testaments to “the genius of Cartier”—a name that has become synonymous with supreme luxury. Cartier has enchanted a discerning global clientele since the early 20th century, not only with their horological superiority and innovation but more so with the flawless and bold aesthetics of their designs. It goes without saying that London-produced Cartier watches from the 60s and 70s, especially those bearing the enchanting ‘Cartier London’ signature, are among the most treasured pieces a collector can aspire to possess.

About Christie’s 
Founded in 1766, Christie’s is a world-leading art and luxury business with a physical presence in 46 countries throughout the Americas, Europe, Middle East, and Asia Pacific, and flagship international sales hubs in New York, London, Hong Kong, Paris and Geneva. Renowned and trusted for our expert live and online-only auctions, as well as bespoke Private Sales, Christie’s unparalleled network of specialists offers our clients a full portfolio of global services, including art appraisal, art financing, international real estate and education. Christie’s auctions span more than 80 art and luxury categories, at price points ranging from $500 to over $100 million. Christie’s has sold 8 of the 10 most important single-owner collections in history, achieved the world record price for an artwork at auction, launched the first fully on-chain auction platform dedicated to exceptional NFT art and manages an investment fund to support innovative startups in the art market. Christie’s is also committed to advancing responsible culture throughout its business and communities worldwide. To learn more, browse, bid, discover, and join us for the best of art and luxury at christies.com or by downloading Christie’s apps.  

* Please note when quoting estimates above that other fees will apply in addition to the hammer price - see Section D of the Conditions of Sale at the back of the sale catalogue.  *Estimates do not include buyer’s premium. Sales totals are hammer price plus buyer’s premium.