In the year 2000 Chronoswiss unveiled the world’s first serially produced regulator tourbillon. More than 20 years after this horological achievement, the Open Gear Tourbillon is launched – a modern mechanical timekeeper with a unique regulator set-up, electric blue case and a hypnotising handmade guilloché.
Traditionally placed at 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is a perfect ingredient to incorporate in the Chronoswiss design lexicon. “Nobody else makes a tourbillon like ours, with a regulator set-up, open gears and handmade guilloché,” says Maik Panziera, Head of Design at Chronoswiss, about the vertical line-up of the Open Gear Tourbillon. “This half-skeletonised flying tourbillon is completely designed in-house, and it is exclusive to Chronoswiss watches,” he continues. The tourbillon Chronoswiss manufactured more than 20 years ago – Régulateur à Tourbillon – also had a guilloché dial. But since then the company has taken one small step for man but one giant leap for an independent watchmaker: now Chronoswiss unveils the the C.303 – its own half-skeletonised tourbillon movement, and the guilloché is added by hand in its atelier in Lucerne.
With the Open Gear Tourbillon the ‘blue hour’ gets a whole new meaning. Using 10 different shades of the colour historically symbolising loyalty, strength, wisdom and trust, the calm display of the watch is contrasted especially by the energetic, almost aggressively electric blue CVD coating on the 17-part, stainless steel case. “We use a light blue for the dial, whereas the bridges have a dark blue coating,” says Panziera. The Trigono-shaped hands are blue lacquered, with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips. For the hour and five-minute indexes, generous amounts of blue-hued lume are combined with zirconium oxide into solid bricks and pillars that shine through the night.
The tourbillon may have roots stretching back to the end of the 18th century, but the Open Gear Tourbillon has everything you should expect from a modern mechanical timepiece. The watch dial is an elaborate 42-part construction on two levels: the bottom level is hand-guilloched, whereas the upper level features skeletonised train wheel bridges and a funnel-like construction for the hour display. Other design details include all particular signifiers of a Chronoswiss watch: knurled bezel, onion crown and the hornback crocodile strap held in place with the patented Autobloc system. There is also a not-to-be-seen special engraving on the reverse side of the dial – for a unique melding of modern mechanical watchmaking and heritage, since the idea of a secret signature was in vogue around two centuries ago when the tourbillon was invented.
To this day the tourbillon is one of the most advanced feats of horology. To place the whole escapement in a miniature cage that makes a full revolution every 60 seconds counteracts the Herculean force of gravity and its detrimental effect on precision. To construct, assemble and fine-tune a tourbillon is, understandably, extremely time-consuming. “It was twenty years ago – and even more so today, since we now have our own movement and execute the guilloché by hand in our atelier in Lucerne,” said Maik Panziera.
The Chronoswiss Open Gear Tourbillon is limited to 15 pieces.
Chronoswiss Open Gear Tourbillon Technical Specifications and Price
Reference CH-3126-BLBL – Stainless steel, blue CVD- coating, blue dial / Limited to 15 pieces
- Off-centre hours at 12:00,
- central minutes,
- flying tourbillon at 6:00
- Chronoswiss manufacture calibre C.303, flying tourbillon, semi-skeletonized, hand-wound
- Diameter Ø 32.8 mm
- Jewels 23
- Shock protection: Incabloc
- Frequency: 4 Hz., 28‘800 A/h
- Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
- Special features: Exclusive movement with blue CVD coating, main plate with Côtes de Genève, skeletonized bridges with circular satin finish, balance wheel galvanic anthracite, skeletonized spring barrel, polished screws
- Solid 17-piece,
- stainless steel case,
- CVD-coated with satin finish and polished;
- bezel with partial knurling and curved,
- double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal;
- screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal;
- onion crown,
- water-resistance up to 10 bar,
- screwed strap bars with patented Autobloc system
- Measurement:s Ø 44 mm, height 13.1 mm
- Elaborate 42-part construction on several levels:
- bottom level with Côtes de Genève,
- middle level hand-guilloched and hand-engraved (“Atelier Lucerne” on reverse of dial),
- upper level featuring screwed-on skeletonized train wheel bridges and funnel-like construction for hour display;
- bar or cylinder-shaped Super-LumiNova indexes
- Hands: Lacquered blue, with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips, “Trigono” shape
- Hornback crocodile leather, hand-sewn
- 39’000,00 EUR
Chronoswiss Open Gear Tourbillon Gallery
Lucerne-based Chronoswiss, founded in 1983, is an independent family-owned company creating modern mechanical watches. It utilises a mix of the newest technologies and classic artisanal handcrafting such as skeletonising, guilloché and enamelling to create timeless, yet distinctively contemporary horology with nonconformist designs.
If you would like an interview with CEO Oliver Ebstein or Head of Design Maik Panziera, please send a request to firstname.lastname@example.org.