With the release of its 29th in-house calibre, De Bethune is combining its traditional expertise with cutting-edge technology to integrate the first-ever complication into the heart of an emblematic timepiece: the DB25 Starry Varius. Optimism is growing as the situation in the world improves. Always quick to keep step with developments, Manufacture De Bethune is offering a travel watch at the very moment when life resumes its course. The little sister of the DB25 World Traveller introduced in 2016, this new GMT model accentuates the aesthetic appeal and undeniable character of the DB25 Starry Varius.
Invitation to travel
The De Bethune teams set themselves the challenge of developing a travel watch during a period when travel had become difficult, if not impossible, so that when life resumed, it would be ready to takes its place on the wrists of the most discerning globetrotters.
If you can’t yet spontaneously meet up with your friends and family, this is an invitation to travel in your mind. The DB25GMT Starry Varius does indeed offer a simple and effective way to stay connected through time by indicating the time zone in which your loved one lives.
“What on earth was I thinking of in working on a new GMT travel watch while all the countries of the world were entering lockdown? I am pleased that it is now finished and that all the nomads of the planet can finally resume their journey, doubtless with a different view of our world.” Denis Flageollet, Founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune
An evolving Starry Varius
Incorporating all the inherent codes of the DB25 Starry Varius collection, namely a polished grade 5 titanium case with a 42 mm diameter, a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way, perfectly integrated openworked lugs, and a screw-down sapphire caseback providing a glimpse of the movement, this new adaptation of the DB25 World Traveller has everything it takes to win over its future owner.
Despite housing such a complicated movement, it is nonetheless slim and elegant on the wrist, even reinforcing the already greatly appreciated characteristics of the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius.
Its user-friendliness and the smooth setting of the GMT movement make it an intelligent and remarkably beautiful watch.
Reading the dial
Starting from the centre, the dial indicates the date on the first disc with the help of its jumping date hand, which can be adjusted via a corrector at 6 o’clock. The hours of the first 24-hour time zone (home or reference time) are marked by the microsphere in a mysterious manner, as it appears to be floating weightless in its corridor. This function can be set in both directions (clockwise/counter-clockwise) via the crown. Local time, i.e. the second time zone, is indicated by the blued hands whose curvature follows the relief of the dial. The minutes hand naturally remains coordinated with the reference time, while the hours hand indicates the local time thanks to the second time zone. Local time can also be set by the crown, in both directions.
The GMT function
Despite its complex construction, this mechanical GMT movement is very simple to use, with concentrically arranged functions.
First of all, the owner uses the crown to set his reference time, known as home time, which is indicated by the microsphere on the 24-hour dial.
Representing De Bethune‘s technical signature since its development of the three-dimensional moon-phase display, this microsphere indicates day and night thanks to its two halves: one blue and the other pink. It gradually turns at 6am and 6pm, thereby imitating sunrise and sunset. Secondly, the wearer sets his second time zone by means of the hours hand which is controlled via the crown pulled out to the second position.
In the centre of the curved dial, De Bethune offers us a poetic vision of our sky by day and by night. A polished pink gold sun in the centre of a microlight shines over half the disc, while the celestial vault is delicately outlined on the blued polished titanium section.
The vision provided is of a miniature night sky, dotted with a multitude of small white gold pins delicately and individually driven into a blued titanium dial.
The Milky Way is then hand-crafted using micro laser strokes and 24-carat gold leaf.
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the reverse side of the movement reveals the latest titanium balance with white gold inlays. This organ has the ability to neutralise the effects of temperature variations thanks to its interaction with the balance spring featuring the “De Bethune” flat terminal curve. Its aerodynamics have also been worked on so as to ensure minimal air resistance. The escape wheel is made of silicon both for the lightness of the material and to increase the power of the calibre.
The regulator is held in place by a triple pare-chute system which combines a titanium bridge integrating two jewels held in place by a leaf-spring system pressing on the jewels.
The two barrels, which are partially visible, have a five-day power reserve thanks to a self-regulating energy mechanism.
A mechanical treasure
While simple and beautiful in appearance, this timepiece nevertheless conceals a mechanical treasure, since it is equipped with the latest hand-wound Calibre DB2507. This is the 29th movement from De Bethune, which once again demonstrates bold technical mastery and expertise by fitting a GMT movement into a Starry Varius case and reproducing a miniature starry sky.
The complication and its display have been entirely redesigned with a view to optimising legibility and operating convenience, thereby ideally meeting travellers’ expectations.
More than just an ally for globetrotters, this De Bethune creation exudes a classic, avant-garde spirit and an intriguingly mysterious allure.
De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius Technical Specifications
Name: DB25 GMT Starry Varius
Reference: DB25 VGTIS3
- Hours, Minutes,
- Second time zone (GMT) ,
- Day/night indicator,
- Jumping date
- DB25 07
- Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
- Winding, setting the local and travel time (GMT) by means of the crown (3 positions ) – Secure bidirectional systems
- Via a corrector at 6 for the date hand (clockwise)
Technical features of calibre DB25 07
- Number of parts: 368
- Jewelling: 40 jewels
- Diameter: 30 mm
- Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin-barrel – A De Bethune Innovation (2004)
- Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration De Bethune Patent (2016 )
- “De Bethune” balance – spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006 )
- Silicon escape wheel
- Microsphere Day/night indicator in rose gold and blued steel s imilar decoration technic of the spherical moon phase – De Bethune Patent (2004)
- Triple pare – chute shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005)
- Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
- Curved mirror-polished steel plate cover
- Steel barrel bridge cover, mirror – polished and adorned with “ Côtes De Bethune ” enhanced with m icrolight decoration in its center – De Bethune innovation 2016
- Hand snailed barrels
- Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts
- Hand – polished flamed – blued steel curved hands
- Hand – polished flamed – blued date hand with polished end
- Day/night indicator in rose gold 5N and blued steel of the microsphere – similar decoration technic of the spherical moon phase – De Bethune Patent (2004)
- Dial and flanges:
- Silver-toned curved date ring with polished and blue markers
- Silver curved hour ring
- Rose gold curved minute ring
- Silver 24h sub-dial with two-tone decals
- Central dial in 2 parts: blue polished titanium with white gold pins/ radiant silver microlight decoration with a sunburst insert in polished rose gold
Case and strap
- Case material: Titanium
- Case diameter: 4 2 mm
- Case thickness: 11,8 mm
- Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
- Crystal: In sapphire crystal ( 1800 Vickers hardness ) with double anti – reflective coating
- Case back: O pen back in polished titanium and sapphire crystal ( 1800 Vickers hardness ) with double anti – reflective coating
- Water – resistance: 3 ATM
- Strap: Extra – supple alligator leather, alligator lining
- Buckle: Pin buckle in titanium