Doxa Sub 200 was launched this year at Baselworld. A good looking diver that will be available for the public starting with 1 Nov. 2019. When I think of Doxa I have a proud feeling growing. The brand celebrates this year its 130th Anniversary. I presented a month ago other big news: Doxa Watches headquarters in Switzerland officially regained 100% authority over the name and website http://www.doxawatches.com/. And to make this year even more interesting, the Doxa Sub 200 runs for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2019, in the “Challenge” category. The perfect opportunity to present it.
Review Doxa Sub 200
The Sub concept was made known to the public at Baselworld 1967. More than 50 years ago it was considered to be the first truly mainstream professional diver’s watch. The brand presents the SUB collection as the first diving watch to feature a patented rotating bezel that incorporates the US Navy’s no-decompression table. More about the history of Doxa watches can be found in this pre-Baselworld press release.
A vintage appearance
The three hands Sub 200 revealed at Baselworld has a strong vintage character. Its 42mm case is manufactured from a single block of 316L stainless steel. The case seems to be smaller due to its short lugs.
The case features a main brushed finish with a polished bevel that continues over the lugs. The crown is partially sunken into the case side.
The bezel has an interesting design, probably a reminiscence from the design of the first diving watches. The bezel is half matt brushed, while the grip side features polished teeth. The unidirectional rotating bezel has a Super‑LumiNova® luminescent coating – Light Old Radium, that imitates the look of the radium luminescent used some decades ago.
The Doxa Sub 200 is covered with a domed sapphire crystal with the curvature met on the classic plexiglass used before the sapphire crystal technology was available. The backside is fitted with a screw-in steel caseback. The watch is rated for 200 atm water resistance.
My favourite detail of this vintage looking piece is the iconic DOXA “beads of rice” bracelet. This looks and feels great on the wrist. The bracelet features a folding clasp with the DOXA fish symbol.
Black velvet dial
The Doxa Sub 200 vintage character can be also found on the dial side. The look, the details of the indexes and hands evoke the back days’ design.
The black velvet dial is decorated with block indexes with SLN GL Light Old Radium filled luminescent. The baton-type hands have the same beige SuperLuminova coating.
The low light view is quite spectacular due to the large blocks of luminescent present on the dial and bezel.
A robust movement
Doxa Sub 200 is powered by ETA 2824-2. This is a robust and proved-in-time movement. The ETA2824-2 is the latest iteration of a relative old movement. It is found in many watches and it is easily serviceable. The movement has a balance wheel oscillating at 4Hz and offering 42 hours autonomy. The calibre is decorated/personalised by Doxa.
Not rainbow-like, but close enough
The Doxa Sub 200 will be available in six colour: the presented one in black – Sharkhunter, the Professional with an orange dial, Searambler with silver dial, Caribbean in navy, Aquamarine will feature a turquoise dial and the Divingstar with a yellow dial. In the gallery, you can find some pictures with the Caribbean (also in the lume shot above).
Some final thoughts
I was happy to find the news about the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2019 “Challenge” category nomination. It is the first participation of the brand to the renown global watchmaking industry’s annual celebration of creativity and excellence. Doxa will go on tour with GPHG along with the other nominees. 2019 sounds like a good year for Doxa.
I like the watch. It has that nostalgic vintage look found in old divers. The advantage is that the watch is modern produced and it will be available in several dial colours. The Sub 200 can be found on the brand’s Website at a price of 990.00€. A good price for the rich brand’s history and lovely design.
The watch sits good on the wrist. The weight of the bracelet is noticeable for the ones not used to a heavier piece. But for me was more than fine. I wear full metal bracelet pieces on a daily basis and Doxa felt normal on the wrist. I love the rice beads style elements. They look amazing. Especially since the alternation with the mat exterior elements highlight the polished beads.
Congratulations Doxa for the nomination and for this great timepiece.
Doxa Sub 200 Technical Specifications
- 316L Stainless steel,
- 42 mm in diameter,
- Height 14.00 mm
- Solid stainless steel,
- screw-down case back
- 42 mm
- 20 bar / 200 meters / 656 ft
- Sapphire glass
- Unidirectional turning bezel,
- SLN GL Light Old Radium/LE
- 19 mm
- Black Velvet,
- applied indices,
- SLN GL Light Old Radium / LE
- Hours, minutes, seconds
- SLN GL Light Old Radium / LE
- ETA 2824-2
- Automatic, self-winding
- 42 hours Power Reserve
- Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
- 25 Jewels
- Decorated by Doxa
- Stainless steel strap “separate Beads of Rice” style attached by screws to ensure a secure fit
- Folding clasp with wetsuit extension, DOXA fish logo
References and availability:
- Steel Bracelet
- Professional 799.10.351.10 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Searambler 799.10.021.10 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Sharkhunter 7184.108.40.206 Available as of November 1, 2019
- Caribbean 7220.127.116.11 Available as of November 1, 2019
- Aquamarine 718.104.22.168 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Divingstar 799.10.361.10 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Professional 799.10.351.21 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Searambler 799.10.021.20 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Sharkhunter 722.214.171.124 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Caribbean 7126.96.36.199 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Aquamarine 7188.8.131.52 Available as of November 15, 2019
- Divingstar 799.10.361.31 Available as of November 15, 2019