Carl F. Bucherer launched four new dial variations of its perpetual calendar this week. Featuring the brand’s peripheral rotor, the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar stands out with a familiar face and a precious rose gold case.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar
Although Carl F. Bucherer is no stranger to perpetual calendars, the signature peripheral rotor or gold cases, the combination of these features was missing in the brand’s collection, especially with such an excellent selection of colours. The Lucerne-originated watchmaker enchanted us with black, green, taupe (brown) and rose (more of a purple) dials this week.
Rose gold Manero case
Carl F. Bucherer tends to go with understated yet very classical cases. The watches manufactured by this brand are usually hard to recognise for someone unfamiliar with the brand but appreciated and loved by the connoisseurs. For a collector desiring a classic, good-looking, non-extravagant wristwatch, Carl F. Bucherer has a lot to offer.
The 18-carat rose gold case is a good choice for this perpetual calendar. It presents a brushed caseband with polished chamfer on the lugs and a polished raised convex bezel. The caseband holds the slightly recessed pushers used to set the perpetual calendar, making the complication easy to set.
The crown is also manufactured in 18K rose gold and features the Carl F. Bucherer embossed logo on the bombe surface. In the photographs, one can easily notice how the case will age and scratch – the presented watch is part of the press prototypes and suffered a fair dose of beating. I must admit, though, that the ageing marks were not visible at first look, and I did not observe them until I studied the images.
The newly launched Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendars are fitted with leather straps with a gradient colour inspired by the dials’ colours. The straps feature a rose gold deployant pin buckle. The Manero QP is not as heavy as one might think due to the weight of the precious metal, but it is also not easy to forget it is on the wrist like with a steel or a titanium counterpart. After the accommodation time, the watch is comfortable and pleasant on the wrist.
Colours and complications
The new Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar comes in four dial variations: a traditional black dial that goes particularly well with the rose gold case, a green dial that highlights the presented complications, a toupe (light brown) dial for a more understated look and a “rose” dial with a purple hue that shines an unusual light for those a bit more daring. I was able to photograph only the green and taupe versions.
Although my first impression was that the dial seemed to be a bit cluttered due to the four dials being very close to the centre, a second train of thoughts made me realize the design is much more legible in this way. The primary function, the time read, is well delimited from the QP and the moon phase with an opaline index zone, with rose-gold-plated wedge index marks that complement the case and ease the legibility.
The sunray-brushed dial central estate is used entirely by the four subdials. The main complication of the perpetual calendar is part of the 12 o’clock positioned subdial: a printed arrow pointing the leap year disk visible through an aperture. The subdial presents the month complication indicated by a rose-gold-plated hand.
The day date complications use the median line of the dial. The watch’s face is well-balanced, with the day on the left and the date on the right. A golden circle surrounds the sloped register with white printed numerals and gold point indexes. The same type of faceted rose-gold plated hands ensures a facile readout.
The romantic moon phase complication is displayed on the lower side of the dial at 6 o’clock. A double aperture reveals an aventurine disk sparkling with the stars of the night with two gorgeous moons executed in gold and decorated by hand-engraving. Carl F. Bucherer Manero’s Peripheral Perpetual Calendar displays the moon phase for both hemispheres. In this way, the symmetry and load of the dial are excellently distributed.
Combining modern design with traditional finishes – Calibre CFB A2055
The Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar is powered by the manufacture calibre CFB A2055. This in-house designed and produced movement is packed with goodies. The superb peripheral rotor taps the power reserve of 55 hours. Almost hidden in the outer area, the rotor benefits from the increased torque given by the peripheral distributed weight. The bidirectional oscillating weight turns on three frictionless ceramic ball bearings housed in shock-absorbing mountings for increased efficiency. Opposite to the rotor’s weight we find the printed name of the brand in large black letters. The movement is based on the Carl F. Bucherer A2000 base (launched seven years ago and powering many of the brand’s complications) and features a 28800 variations/hours (4Hz) escapement.
The peripheral technology leaves the view of the CFB A2055 unobstructed. The modern construction with straight lines is enriched by beautiful traditional decoration. The movement is decorated with diagonal Cotes de Geneve. The bridges have chamfered edges with a polished finish.
I enjoy the attention to extra details – like the domed construction of the winding and barrel’s gears, the latter featuring the Carl F. Bucherer logo engraved. Note the parashock system of the winding system on the right side of the above picture.
As decorative elements are visible: the polished sinks for jewels and screws (these have large, polished heads). This lack of rounded bridges has a modern, minimalistic touch that contrasts beautifully with the finishes and the revelation of the gear train.
Conclusions
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar is an interesting proposal in the Manero Collection. Although we are already familiar with this appearance and selection of complications from the previously launched Capsule Collection, the classic-looking gold version is suitable for an understated, not-so-recognisable/visible daily piece. The choice of precious materials and beautiful colours fits well with this wristwatch.
Although I would usually go for black – for a more “black tie” attire, as a daily piece, I love the colourful variants. It is nice to see the range of colours that covers a large set of preferences. In my first minutes with the watches, I found them slightly cluttered in the centre, but I quickly realised the benefit of having the time legibility unhampered with parts of the sub-dials. I enjoy the symmetry and the excellent balance the entire dial has. Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar is a beautiful watch with superb details, with my favourites being the double moon phase and the movement (in totality – construction and decoration).
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Technical Specifications
References
- 00.10916.03.33.01 (black)
- 00.10916.03.93.01 (green)
- 00.10916.03.93.04 (taupe)
- 00.10916.03.93.02 (rose) – Limitation: 8 pieces
- EUR 41.000
Movement
- Automatic, CFB A2055 manufacture calibre,
- COSC-certified chronometer,
- Diameter 30.6 mm, height 5.73 mm,
- 33 jewels,
- Power reserve: 55 hours
- Functions: Perpetual calendar (leap year, month, date and day), moon phase (hand-engraved hemispheric rose gold moons on aventurine), hour, minute
Case
- 18 K rose gold,
- Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side,
- Case back with sapphire crystal,
- Water resistant to 3 bar (30 m),
- Diameter 41.6 mm, height 11.73 mm
Dial
- Black, green or taupe dial,
- Sunray-brushed centre and opaline index zone,
- Rose-gold-plated wedge index marks
- Hands: Rose-gold-plated wedge hands
Strap
- Gradient-coloured calfskin strap with quick-release system,
- 18 K rose gold pin-lock folding clasp
About Carl F. Bucherer
Carl F. Bucherer has been synonymous with excellence, innovation, and passion since 1888. The Swiss company has become an internationally renowned global brand with a presence throughout the world, characterized by its founder’s pioneering spirit and the cosmopolitan esprit of its home city of Lucerne. The contemporary timepieces produced by Carl F. Bucherer combine unique design with the utmost precision and outstanding functionality. Committed to technical innovation, Carl F. Bucherer is the market leader in peripheral technology and has patented not only a peripheral winding system but also a floating tourbillon in a peripherally supported cage and a peripherally guided minute repeater regulator.
Carl F. Bucherer – Exploring Time