Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon is a fabulous piece that I had in my hands during SIHH2019. This mesmerising piece uses no hands but a disc system to show the passing time. A rectangular 5N red gold completes the package. This is a short presentation of the piece seen at Geneva.
Review Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon
The new HL Vagabonde Tourbillon uses a system that might look familiar to you. Remember the Endeavour Flying Hours from the sister brand H. Moser & Cie. Moreover, the watch uses the calibre HTL 405-1. This one is based on the H. Moser & Cie. HMC 804 automatic movement. The HL Vagabonde Tourbillon displays at 6 o’clock, as the name suggests, a beautiful tourbillon that adds a new level of coolness. Let’s see the watch on the wrist first and then we go more into details.
Hautlence case in 5N red gold
The case measures 39 x 46 x 12 mm. The dimensions are well proportioned and, taking into account the rectangular shape, the wear is quite comfortable. I have seen the watch on a lady’s wrist and it looked rather spectacular.
The brushed body is in contrast with the highly polished chamfering. Even the lugs received a gorgeously executed beveling with hand executed polish.
The raised crystal has a magnificent bevelled edge, especially taking into account the case curvature. Noticeable in the picture is the crown decorated with engraved Hautlence logo on a domed polished background.
The backside reveals a brushed surface, following the front theme and an exhibiting crystal that reveals the calibre HTL 405-1.
A complex dial with a simple way of telling the time
In case you wonder what time the watch displays – 4: 23, respectively, 4:24 – the watch was a fully functional piece.
A micro-blasted surface serves as a background for three discs/subdials, bearing 4 hours each. The system is quite simple after you get used to it. One disc displays the 12, 3, and 9 o’clock, the second one the 1, 4, 7 and 10 o’clock and the last one, logic, the 2, 5, 8 and 11 o’clock. Actually is the 2, 5, 8, 11 group the second and the third one is the 1, 4, 7, 10 – if I remember well the dial rotation.
The minutes are indicated by an arrow facing the sapphire disc with printed railtrack and Arabic numerals. The entire composition is beautiful from an aesthetical but also the technical point of view. The finishes are gorgeous.
This time, the tourbillon is not the most spectacular dial element
Besides the spectacularity of the time telling apparatus, the dial is technically enriched with a tourbillon. The watch face is captivating on so many levels (pun intended).
The combination of blue PVD elements and gold is rather ravishing in the case of the Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon. The eyes run from one detail to another. Telling time needs accommodation. Not only because of the complex time display but because of the multitude of finishes and details. Gorgeous by all means.
As mentioned before, the Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon is powered by the HTL 405-1 movement.
Finishes – Hautlence style!
Do I need to mention that Hautlence does an excellent job in decorating its movements? I don’t think so… Calibre HTL 405-1 is an eye-catcher.
The first visible detail is the rotor of the bidirectional self-winding system. It is decorated with a fine honeycomb pattern and the positive engraved brand’s name. The watch has an impressive power reserve of 3 (three) days.
The bridges are decorated with double Cotes de Genève – one of the most difficult and spectacular implementations of the wide-known decoration. The bridges have suffered a chamfering with a final polished finish.
Final words and impressions
Hautlence is one of those brands that does not get enough love from the horological community. The HL Vagabonde Tourbillon is a stunning timepiece. It is sad for me to see people speaking about these splendid pieces only shortly, usually after the release.
Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon is a loud piece. It is a statement. personally, I could not wear this watch daily. The reason is not the robustness since the Moser basic design is quite solid and they take big pride in making serious pieces, intended for daily use. But HL Vagabonde Tourbillon distracts me from my daily routine. It is asking for attention. At least every hour – I would say. It is definitively a watch to enjoy. ‘Cause this piece brings happiness.
Why happiness in three acts? Simple! A revolving hours display, a superb tourbillon visible in an elegant package and dazzling finishes.
Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon REF. H2405-0400 Technical Specifications and Price
- Skeleton hours split over 2 levels, minutes (240° sector)
- Case middle and horns: satin-finished and polished 5N red gold
- Bezel: satin-finished and polished 5N red gold
- Screws: 5N red gold with polished heads
- Crown: polished 5N red gold with engraved HAUTLENCE logo
- Crystal (TOP): extra-hard bevelled sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
- Back: satin-finished and polished 5N red gold, 4 screws; Engraved with “HAUTLENCE”, “3 ATM WATER RESISTANT”, “Horlogerie Suisse”
- Crystal (BOTTOM): extra-hard sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
- Dimensions: 39 x 46 x 12 mm.
- Water Resistance: 3 atm
- HTL 405-1 movement based on the H. Moser & Cie. HMC 804 automatic movement
- Hours and minutes, bidirectional self-winding mechanical flying tourbillon movement, with double hairspring
- Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
- Regulating organ: 21,600 vibrations / hour
- Number of jewels: 35
- Front face finish: sand-blasted module, components decorated and finished by hand
- Reverse finish: double Cotes de Genève, components decorated and finished by hand
- Base dial: micro-blasted with blue PVD, numerals in 5N varnish
- Bridge: circular satin-brushed, with blue PVD
- Hour disc: sunray with blue PVD, 5N transfer digits and 5N transfer Indicator
- Minute disc: sapphire with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, blue transfer honeycomb patterns and 5N transfer display sector (BOTTOM), 5N transfer minute numerals with black outline (TOP)
- Blue Louisiana alligator; domed, rubber-lined, full square scales, rolled-edge
- Interchangeability spring bars
- Folding clasp: grade 5 titanium with 5N satin-finished red gold plate
- CHF 79,000