MB&F just released the LM Perpetual EVO, a Legacy Machine to fit an active lifestyle. Not one, but three dial versions were launched: a full black version, a more “expected” blue, and a fun, sporty and daring orange. Let’s have a look at all variants.
Review MB&F LM Perpetual EVO
In case you are wondering why in the name of all deities I would publish the press release and shortly after the review, the answer is simple. The MB&F press release is always extremely well written. I can only wish and hope to reach Suzanne’s knowledge and eloquence. So, I must give the Cezar what belongs to the Cezar and present her work as it is.
Secondly, I have something to say. Too much for an addendum. And plus, I don’t have the patience to wait for the weekend (when I usually post my reviews).
Oh yes, I forgot to make a wrist-roll with the black dial version…
During the Geneva Watch Days, I have used the local transportation to go from my cozy location to the hotels enlisted for GWD. In one of the mornings, I have searched for the same place, at the end of the bus as Max. What can I say, Geneva is Geneva and you never know whom you gonna meet in the wild… So, we had quite a long time to talk about … everything.
Visiting the MB&F at Beau-Rivage Genève offered me the chance for a second long talk with Max. This time, together with Charris, they explained to me the background idea of the LM Perpetual EVO.
We all know the Legacy Machine Perpetual is not a sports watch. But it is one of the watches that get a lot of wrist time and Max enjoys.
The case study goes like this: imagine being at the pool and someone approach Max for a casual discussion. So, what do you do for a living? Ooh, I have a company that makes high-end watches. Nice, can I see one? Ooh, no, I left it aside since I am at the pool…
These kinds of situations are not desirable. But it is not the point. The fact that MB&F needs in the portfolio a watch that can fit to an active lifestyle is more important. A watch that can go with you to the pool, or for fun activities. This is how the LM Perpetual EVO idea came in mind and since today, it is also available for us.
The tamed beast
MB&F LM Perpetual EVO might appear identical to 2015’s introduced Legacy Machine Perpetual. Several changes were made to create a watch that can withstand the needs of an active life.
The case kept its exterior diameter of 44mm. The material used is Zirconium – a rather difficult metal that is lighter than steel and somewhat more durable as titanium. Zr is a metal used in the medical applications (including implants) due to its anti-microbial and hypoallergenic properties. Along with the fact that it has excellent resistance to corrosion, these characteristics make Zr a good choice as a metal for a watch case.
But, and there is a big “but”, Zirconium is also used in bombs. Yes, that big kaboom making devices used to bring death and destruction. Thanks to all deities, the LM Perpetual EVO is just a “bomb” of a watch, in the “awesome” meaning way. MB&F uses Zirconium to brings joy and happiness in the form of a super cool watch.
Coming back to the big “but” from the previous paragraph, zirconium imposes difficulties by machining, decoration and anything that can create Zr particles or powder. The small particles ignite easily, which makes machining and polishing rather dangerous than just difficult. Manufacturing the cases for the MB&F LM Perpetual was partly fun, partly frightening.
Setting and winding
Another change comes for the perpetual calendar’s pushers. The initial circular pushers were changed to a rectangular form. They received double-sprung oblong actuators to ease the adjustment and create a more pleasant actuation feel.
For winding is used an upgraded screw-in crown. While this system increases the water-resistance numbers, it is a serious threat for manually over-winding the mainspring barrel. To overcome this shortcoming, a débrayage of the winding stem was implemented. Shortly explained: it is a clutch that disengages the crown from the winding mechanism.
Setting and winding the LM Perpetual EVO is a bliss. Precise and effortless.
A matter of perspective
The new case changed its diameter but the new design lacks the classic bezel. That means the sapphire crystal has been redesigned. Lacking the classic fixation way, the crystal was fused to the case with the help of a thermal bonding process.
The crystal geometries were changed, keeping in balanced the height-to-diameter ratio and structural strength. This offers an unseen opening to the original, open-worked LM Perpetual EVO dial.
(sub-)Dials and movement
The LM Perpetual EVO comes in three dial variants: black, blue and orange. Each dial version is produced in 15 pieces limited series to celebrate the MB&F’s 15th anniversary.
The orange shade is a novelty, being a hard to produce and reproduce colour. Another interesting detail is the luminescent used for hands and indexes. The low light view is breathtaking.
The layout is no stranger for those familiar with the Legacy Machine Perpetual: a time only circular brushed dial on the top, a day open dial indication at 3 o’clock, a date open dial indication at 9 o’clock, the months’ indication at 6 o’clock.
The perpetual calendar also features a leap year indication at the left of the month’s sub-dial and a power reserve indication at the right of the same sub-dial.
The most important components of the mechanical processor can be observed under these indications.
A normal QP uses a 31 days counter system that skips the dates for the months with less than 31 days. This system was sensitive, easy to break, costly to repair.
The brain of the perpetual calendar uses an unusual system. It uses a 28 days counter (since all months have at least 28 days – a Captain Obvious moment here) and just add the necessary extra days. Without unnecessary jump, there are not too many or too few jumps, resulting in a more precise, also robust calendar.
Moreover, the mechanical processor disconnects the quick set pushers during the changeover so there is no danger to damage the calendar.
Another element that eases the use and set the QP is the planetary cam that enables the quick year setting, removing the need of scrolling 47 months to reach the right month and year.
The mighty FlexRing
What brings the extra robustness to the MB&F LM Perpetual EVO is the steel annular dampener. The “spring” is manufactured by machining from a single block of steel.
The simple but very efficient FlexRing absorbs the dangerous shocks, up to a certain degree, in vertical and lateral axes. Unfortunately, the metal spring is not visible. What is visible is the correct watch functioning in more shocks and vibration difficult situations.
A contradiction of forms and facts?
MB&F LM EVO is manufactured in zirconium – a material dangerous to work with but the result is excellent for a watch case in terms of stability and resistance.
A perpetual calendar which is, in theory and practicum, a sensible mechanical dispositive, fitted with the world’s longest balance wheel pinion, connecting the hovering balance to the escapement on the back of the engine, but mounted in a “FlexRing” that absorbs the harmful vibration.
A watch from MB&F that is a Legacy Machine but also a “sports” watch: not by name, shape or appearance but as a daily companion.
Most of us have a moderate life: we enjoy life, do a little bit of sport, eat, drink and have fun but also work and travel. Life brings us in unexpected places and situations – this is what MB&F LM EVO stands for. Be prepared to do what you desire having the EVO as a faithful wrist companion.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Technical Specifications and Price
Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is available in three variations of 15 pieces each:
- Orange CVD dial plate
- Blue CVD dial plate
- Black PVD dial plate
- Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th-century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
- Galvanic black dials with both SLN numerals and hands (except for the leap year and power reserve)
- FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
- Screw down crown
- Power reserve: 72 hours
- Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
- Number of components: 581
- Number of jewels: 41
- Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators
- Material: Zirconium
- Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
- Number of components: 70
- Water resistance: 80m / 8 ATM / 270 feet
- Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Strap & buckle
- Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle
- CHF 152,000 + VAT (USD 167,000 / EUR 142,000 + tax)