Born in the ’70, in the full quartz crisis, Laureato is one of the most iconic watch designs ever to be created. It remained as one of the most emblematic designs of Girard-Perregaux. In 2016, the watch community received with great joy the rebirth of Girard-Perregaux Laureato in a 225 pieces limited edition piece. Since then, Laureato was established as a complete collection. The ladies pieces start at 34 mm with quartz movements, continuing with 38mm with mechanical movements, keeping the signature Girard-Perregaux design. The bigger sizes, mainly destined for gents, start at 42mm with an impressive selection: the classic three hands, chronograph, tourbillon, flying tourbillon, skeleton, perpetual calendar. The collection includes pieces in 43mm, 44mm and even a 45mm version featuring the well-known Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Bridge. Today’s review has in focus the three hands Laureato in 42mm.
Review: Girard-Perregaux Laureato three hands 42mm, Ref. 81010-11-634-11A
There are three key pieces of information that any watch enthusiast, especially a Laureato fan must know:
- In the full quartz crisis, Girard-Perregaux was struggling like all the Swiss Manufacturers. The Laureato design was born as quartz piece, rooting its design in Italy. It was a success that helped the brand overcoming the crisis.
- The name “Laureato” came as a suggestion from an Italian importer. Inspiration was the Italian name for the American comedy-drama The Graduate (Il Laureato in Italian) which came out in 1967. The cult film featuring Anne Bancroft, Katharine Ross and Dustin Hofmann was a huge success in Italy. The association of the piece with the movie was supposed to ease the entrance of the new design into the market.
- The Laureato design is inspired by the unusual Florence’s Santa Maria del Fiore Catedral’s dome. The octagonal dome was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. Even today is one of the most interesting and complex architectural achievement.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato has a timeless design that keeps its inspiration from the ’70s era. The modern iteration was designed by another Italian – Stefano Macaluso, Girard-Perregaux Product Development Director.
Note: the screw-in crown was open during the photoshoot to keep the hands in the ten-ten position.
The watch presented today is manufactured in stainless steel. The case diameter is 42mm. The watch is an allrounder timepiece, combining sportiness with elegance into a now-classic.
The case of the Laureato is highlighted by well-finished details. The alternate of brushed and polished surfaces is spectacular. Its strong character does not remain unobserved. Laureato’s case edge is elegantly finished with a subtly chamfered polish that continues over the bracelet.
The prominent detail of Laureato is the bezel construction. An octogonal circular brushed element sits above the polished circular base evoking construction of the Florence’s beautiful Catedral’s dome.
The proportions lead to perfection. The elegance is overtaking the sporty note. The octagon is circular brushed but has polished walls, making a graceful transition to the mirror polish round base. The late one raises just a bit over the horizontally brushed case face.
Note that even the crown received the octagonal treatment: an octagonal base with a domed polished surface is adorned with mirror polish and embossed Girard-Perregaux logo. The entire construction stays, as on the octagonal bezel’s case, on the cylindrical crown.
Another elegant note comes from the case’s seamless integration of the bracelet. The steel bracelet combines polished and horizontally brushed elements.
The bracelet presents the same chamfered polish on its entire length, as the case. The bracelet is fitted with a triple folding clasp adorned with GP engraved logo on a brushed plate.
The case back offers an unobstructed view of the in-house movement. The polished metal part is fixed with six screws and bears engravings with the name of the brand, reference number, material and the 330ft/100m water resistance.
Girard-Perregaux spent a lot of attention on the finishes of Laureato’s. The delightful contrast of brushed and polished defines the elegance of the timepiece and secures its place in the modern theatre of all-rounders.
A classic face – Laureato’s dial
The dial design keeps the elements of the previous years: the exquisite “Clou de Paris” pattern, applied indexes and logo, the baton hands and the general markings. The black dial offers lovely light and shades games. Depending on the light conditions, the colour changed from black to different shades of grey.
On the top side of the dial, the Girard-Perregaux logo keeps the 12 o’clock position. Between the logo and the hands, the name and founding year of the brand are placed on an embossed plate.
The hour indexes are manufactured in polished steel and filled with luminescent, offering enhanced visibility in low light. The baton hour indexes are surrounded by the minute/seconds register with printed indexes.
The date window is discreetly visible at 3 o’clock through a simple, subtle chamfered aperture. The date blends nicely into the overall design and colour scheme.
Laureato is fitted with luminescent enriched baton hour and minute hands with arrow pointed heads. The long and slender seconds’ hand presents a lovely counter-weight reminding of the Girard-Perregaux prominent bridge.
Having in mind the first modern pieces of Laureato, the black dial version of the three hands 42mm Laureato is a nice addition to the collection. A classic black dial was mandatory. I love the blue version released in 2017, but I consider the black dial Ref. 81010-11-634-11A an even more versatile piece.
The backside of the Laureato reveals the calibre GP01800-0025
A true workhorse – the manufacture calibre GP01800
Laureato three hands 42mm is powered by the in-house calibre GP01800-0025. The movement is a variation of the GP’s workhorse, the GP1800 movement. This calibre is used in several Girard-Perregaux timepieces with the appropriate changes.
The movement is nicely presented on the caseback. The proportions are excellent and the passing from brushed case to the polished concave caseback and movement’s finishes quite delightful.
The movement is entirely made and finished in-house. Calibre GP01800-0025 is nicely decorated with perlage (circular graining) on mainplate and bridges’ base, Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), and polished bevelling (chamfering). There are a lot of details to be enjoyed.
The automatic movement uses 191 parts, 28 are jewels and a steel oscillating rotor. The balance wheel oscillates at 4Hz offering 54 hours of power reserve.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Ref. 81010-11-634-11A – Final notes
Laureat0 42mm with black dial is a lovely piece. The Laureato Collection is, in general, a well-balanced combination of classic elements and modern design. The watch is elegant finished at all levels. I find the black dial a bit more versatile and less picky as the blue or white dial versions. The watch is easy to set and wind by need. The screw-in crown imposes no issues for normal use.
The wrist presence is simply astonishing. During our 10-days tests (a more lifestyle review will follow), I surprised myself several times staring at the watch not for reading the time but just to enjoy its beautiful design and decorations. The three hands piece is the most elegant piece of the collection. I know the complications are nice and the tourbillon versions are spectacular, but the three hands version is the most refined one.
The watch and bracelet are heavy, in comparison with a leather-strapped piece. But nothing out of ordinary for someone used to full metal bracelet. Even on Diana’s small wrist, the 42mm was ok and she had no issue with the weight. Like any other full metal pieces with complex case and bracelet finishes, the watch is prone to easy visible scratches. Especially on the mirror-polished elements, where even the superficial scratches could be observed. This shortcoming is not that problematic after some heavy wearing that makes the highly polished surfaces a bit more matt and the watch shows its sporty character.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Ref. 81010-11-634-11A Specifications and Price
- Material: stainless steel
- Diameter: 42.00 mm
- Height: 10,88 mm
- Glass: sapphire double anti-reflective
- Caseback: sapphire crystal
- Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
- Dial: black with ‘Clou de Paris’ pattern
- Hands: ’baton’ type with luminescent material
- Reference: GP01800-0025
- Type: Self-winding mechanical movement
- Diameter: 30,00 mm (13 1/4”’)
- Height: 3,97 mm
- Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4 Hz)
- Number of components: 191
- Jewels: 28
- Oscillating weight: Steel
- Finishes: Côtes de Genève, circular graining and bevelling
- Power reserve: Min. 54 hours
- Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Material: steel bracelet
- Finishes: Alternating mat and polished surfaces
- Triple folding clasp
- 11.600CHF (Swiss recommended tax-inclusive retail price)