In 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre embarks on a Stellar Odyssey, paying homage to the celestial events that have always fascinated the watchmakers of the Manufacture. The spirit and identity of La Grande Maison are deeply rooted in the Vallée de Joux, its home since Antoine LeCoultre founded the company in 1833. With its exceptionally clear night skies, this serene environment presents the ideal conditions for observing the stars and contemplating the wonders of the cosmos.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE ATMOS HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 590
THE PERPETUAL MOVEMENT OF THE SOLAR SYSTEM CAPTURED IN A SUBLIME OBJET D’ART
In keeping with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal quest for precision, the Manufacture’s engineers and watchmakers have created a new complication that reproduces the true cycles of the Earth, Sun, and Moon more closely than ever before, developing it specifically for the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590. The extraordinary mechanism brings an entirely new dimension to the Atmos – the unique perpetual clock that runs on air – displaying, in three dimensions and in real time, the relative positions and movements of Earth, the Moon and the Sun.
Nicknamed the Atmos Tellurium, this is the most complex Atmos clock ever created, pushing the limits of both precision and design, and the intricacy and architectural beauty of its movement naturally inspired the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier. Dedicating a wide range of their craft skills to its decoration – from miniature-painting and laser-engraving to lacquer-work and meteorite inlay – they have elevated the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 to become a sublime work of art as well as an outstanding timekeeping device.
· Pushing the boundaries of precision and design, the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 is the most complex Atmos clock ever created, requiring more than four years of research and development work
· New Calibre 590 incorporates a complication that reproduces the true cycles of the Earth, Sun, and Moon
· The artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier dedicated a wide range of craft skills to its decoration, transforming an outstanding timekeeping device into a sublime work of art
Measuring Time as the Planets Move
In the very beginning, thanks to the movements of stars and planets, mankind became aware of the passing of time and began to define and measure it. Days, with periods of light and darkness, were defined by one complete rotation of Earth on its axis; years were defined by the time it takes for the Sun to return to the same position in the sky, completing a full cycle of seasons.
Over the millennia, scientists invented instruments to reproduce these cycles and enhance their understanding of celestial phenomena. Clock-makers began to measure time by using the values of the various astronomical cycles – although the units of standard civil time are only approximate, based on the average values of solar, lunar and sidereal cycles. In 1543, Copernicus revolutionised scientific thinking with the publication of his heliocentric model of the solar system (first hypothesised by the Ancient Greek astronomer Aristarchus of Samos, the model had been discounted for more than 1,500 years in favour of an Earth-centred model). The heliocentric model places the Sun, rather than Earth, at the centre of our solar system and its publication triggered the invention of the tellurion (also written as tellurium), a three-dimensional mechanical mobile that illustrates the relative positions and movements of Earth and the Moon in relation to the Sun. From the 18th century onwards, elaborate clocks were sometimes surmounted by these fascinating mechanisms. The nickname of Calibre 590 –‘Tellurium’ – is a tribute to those magnificent clocks.
Invented in 1928, the Atmos needs no human intervention to wind its movement; a temperature variation of just one degree Celsius provides sufficient energy to wind it for 48 hours, enabling it to run perpetually if kept under normal everyday conditions. Because this remarkable system produces only a small amount of energy – some 40 times less energy than a traditional 4Hz watch movement typically offers – the Atmos movement has been designed to consume as little energy as possible, with the balance taking one minute to perform a complete oscillation.
Over time, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers have mastered the challenge of adding functions to the mechanism without substantially increasing energy consumption. In doing so, they have discovered that the complications best suited to the Atmos are those based on longer cycles, such as the seasons, months and phases of the moon.
A New Complication and a Captivating Display
The new Calibre 590 was entirely conceived, designed and constructed within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre and assembled in the Atmos atelier, a workshop solely dedicated to Atmos. Comprising 443 components, with the tellurium complication fully integrated into the movement, it required more than four years of research and development – its technical complexity and sophistication naturally meriting a place in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica collection. As well as reproducing with precision the rotation of Earth on its own axis, and the orbits of the Moon around Earth and Earth around the Sun, the new calibre indicates the corresponding months and seasons with a zodiacal calendar.
The clock face is defined by a peripheral ring formed of two layers. The upper layer, fixed in place, is marked with an hour-and-minute track and the names of the seasons; this conceals a mobile ring marked with the months, which appear in an aperture at 6 o’clock. Set within this frame is a disc of translucent blue sapphire crystal, laser-engraved with the zodiac signs. At the centre of the dial, the sun is represented by a burst of polished golden metal rays.
Close to the peripheral ring, balanced by a wedge-shaped counterweight, a circle of meteorite frames a transparent sapphire disc into which a spherical Earth and Moon are set. The Earth rotates on its axis in 24 hours, the length of a civil day, providing a night-day indication as it revolves. At the same time, the Moon orbits Earth in one synodic month, turning on its own axis to show its phases. Defined by one complete cycle of moon phases, a mean synodic month is 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2 seconds in length. This mean (or average) duration allows for the slight variation caused by the elliptical shape of the Moon’s orbit. The mechanism of the Atmos is so close to this mean that it creates only one day of error in 5,770 years.
This entire Earth-and-Moon disc orbits around the central Sun, making a complete rotation in one solar (or “tropical”) year, indicating the seasons as it turns. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers have succeeded in establishing a cycle of 365.2466 days. This is so close to the reference value of 365.2425 days found in the Gregorian calendar that it varies by only one day in 390 years, meaning that it will not need adjusting until the year 2412 (the only adjustment is the seasonal change).
‘Fully visible from every angle, the entire mechanism seems to hover in space within its cylindrical cabinet of glass. In fact, it is supported, and attached to the base by a virtually invisible glass cloche, which also encloses the annular balance. Like the main body of the movement, the balance also seems to floating as it performs its slow and mesmerising dance.’ explains Lionel Favre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Design Director.
Naturally, this extraordinary mechanism has inspired the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier to dedicate a wide range of their craft skills to its decoration. Miniature painting adds detail and depth to the spherical Earth; laser engraving evokes the surface of the Moon; lacquer brings a rich glow to the main dial ring; and meteorite – material that has literally fallen from space – is inlaid on the Earth-Moon ring; and the glass cabinet has been hand-painted with a delicate rendering of the constellations.
The most complex Atmos clock ever created, the new Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 pushes the limits of precision and design a step further with a perpetual mechanism complemented by a tellurion that perpetuates time to almost infinity. It showcases this remarkable achievement in the form of a true work of art.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE ATMOS INFINITE
AN ODE TO TRANSPARENCY AND MINIMALISM
More than nine decades since it first appeared, the Atmos clock remains unique in the world of horology. More than just a remarkable timepiece, it is a genuine work of art, with a strong aesthetic identity defined by the distinctive form of its mechanism. In 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre opens a fresh chapter in the story of this fascinating clock, with an entirely new design: the Atmos Infinite.
· Reinterpreting the Atmos for the 21st century; conceived as a contemporary work of art with exceptional transparency and purity of line
· Viewed from every angle, the mechanism seems to float freely within its cylindrical glass cabinet, thanks to almost-invisible supports
Invented in 1928, the Atmos seems to defy the laws of physics: running independently of any human intervention, it draws its energy from infinitesimal variations in the ambient air temperature. The secret lies in a hermetically sealed, gas-filled capsule, which is connected to the clock’s drive spring by a membrane. The slightest temperature variation changes the volume of the gas, causing the membrane to ‘breathe’ like the bellows of an accordion, and wind the spring. Its energy consumption is so slight that it would take 60 million Atmos clocks to consume the same amount of energy as a single 15-watt incandescent light bulb. A temperature fluctuation of just one degree Celsius provides the clock with an operating autonomy of about two days, enabling it to run perpetually under normal everyday conditions.
An ode to transparency and minimalism, the new design is an object of startling purity and modernism yet remains true to the intrinsic identity of the Atmos. Reinterpreting the timeless elegance of the classical Art Deco “glass box” cabinet for the 21st century, the cylindrical glass cabinet of the Atmos Infinite also makes subtle allusion to the rounded glass domes of the very earliest models.
‘The aesthetic of the Atmos is defined by the distinctive shape of its movement. With its complete absence of visual distraction, the seamless glass cabinet gives full value to the Atmos mechanism, which appears to float freely within it.’ explains Lionel Favre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Design Director.
The Atmos mechanism is held in place by glass supports, designed to be virtually invisible. From every angle, this allows an unrestricted view of the entire mechanism, with the bellows, chains and gears that keep the clock moving.
The minimalistic approach extends to the clock’s functions: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 570 is an hours-and-minutes movement. Its construction, too, is pared back to the essentials, yet fine watchmaking finishes abound, including brushed surfaces, polished edges and Côtes de Genève stripes.
The black lacquered dial is composed of two concentric circles onto which polished baton-shaped indexes have been applied, and is complemented by hands that match the silvery rhodium finish of the mechanism. On a metal outer ring, the minutes are marked by tiny indented dots. Their form echoes the round indentations on the annular balance, which spins back and forth in its slow and mesmerising rhythm beneath the body of the movement.
By capturing the singular spirit of the Atmos and reinterpreting all of its essential features in contemporary style, the Atmos Infinite is destined to become a modern classic.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 945
THE SECRETS OF THE VALLEE DE JOUX CONSTELLATIONS CAPTURED IN A GRANDE COMPLICATION
Highlighting its expertise in celestial complications, Jaeger-LeCoultre reinterprets its Grande Complication Calibre 945 with two magnificent new interpretations for 2022: Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia in pink gold and Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Atomium in white gold. Each offered in a limited edition of five pieces, these new works celebrate La Grande Maison’s artistic creativity and mastery of the decorative crafts while reaffirming its technical ingenuity.
Having fully mastered sidereal time – the measurement used by astronomers to track the apparent movement of the constellations across the night sky – our watchmakers are able to create one-of-a-kind calibres that reproduce these astronomical events on the wrist, bringing complications together in fascinating new ways. Originally created in 2010, Calibre 945 unites a sky chart with a celestial vault, a zodiacal calendar anda minute repeater, and is further elevated by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Cosmotourbillon – a celestial flying tourbillon.
· The new “Atomium” and “Galaxia” dials showcase the skills of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier, introducing grisaille enamel to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s repertoire of rare artistic crafts for the first time
· A Cosmotourbillon makes a complete circuit of the dial in one sidereal day, and a Northern Hemisphere sky vault tracks the positions of the constellations in real time, as seen from the Vallée de Joux
· The exquisite chimes of a minute repeater complement the celestial timekeeping
A Heavenly Display
The essence of the watch is the way in which it interprets astronomical timekeeping for the wrist, using the dial to display our link to the cosmos on both a literal and philosophical level – unlike a classical calendar dial, in which we infer that link from the numerical readings.
Highlighting the astronomical aspect of time measurement, our watchmakers developed a mechanism able to display the passing of sidereal time, based on the stars. Set at the centre of the dial, the celestial vault maps the Northern Hemisphere night sky as seen from the 46th parallel – the latitude of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s home in the Vallée de Joux – tracking the position of the constellations in real time.
Enhancing this celestial display, the Cosmotourbillon is elevated beyond its purely technical function as a regulating mechanism, measuring the passing of time as it makes a complete, anti-clockwise circuit of the dial in one sidereal day. With a duration of precisely 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4.1 seconds, a sidereal day is defined by Earth’s rotation measured in relation to more distant fixed stars, whereas the 24-hour solar day – our civil time – is measured by Earth’s orbit around the Sun.
A golden sun-shaped pointer set at the edge of the dial indicates the month of the zodiacal calendar and solar time on a 24-hour scale, which is necessary for setting the watch. The Dauphine-shaped hands indicate the minutes and 12-hour cycles of civil time, which are displayed on two concentric rings on the flange of the dial.
Showcasing the Métiers Rares®
An exceptional movement merits an exceptional habillage and the new Master Hybris Artistica Galaxia and Master Hybris Artistica Atomium bring fresh artistic expression to this marriage of complications. Hand-decorated by the artisans in the Métiers Rares® atelier of the Manufacture, the multiple-level dial amplifies the beauty of the celestial theme while also showcasing the Cosmotourbillon.
For the star map, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces grisaille enamel to its repertoire for the first time. A painterly technique that originated in 16th-century France, grisaille enamel is unique in creating a chiaroscuro effect, with an illusion of three-dimensionality created by half-tones and shading. First, the enameller must perfect the dark background – traditionally blue or black – building the depth and intensity of colour by applying multiple layers, each of which requires firing. Then, using a super-fine brush, the image is added in white enamel, layer by painstaking layer, again with a firing after each stage. Because thicker enamel creates lighter areas, its application must be controlled with the utmost skill to achieve the ethereal beauty and apparent depth that make grisaille so beguiling. Thanks to this rarefied technique, the dials of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 depict with utmost artistry the sky that we see above us at night.
In a subtle allusion to the way the night sky seems to form a dome above us when we look at the stars, the dials are constructed on multiple levels, dominated by a domed structure that also wraps around the Cosmotourbillon. Visible around the edge of the dome and beneath the tourbillon, the deepest level of the dial is a midnight blue or black disc (for the white gold and pink gold cases, respectively) decorated with translucent lacquer over opaline, with transferred white inscriptions for the names of the months, and the tourbillon seconds.
The dome is formed of two sections. On the black dial of the “Galaxia”, both the outer section of the dome and the inner celestial disc are made of gold, with grisaille enamel depicting the planets, and the star map and names of the constellations transferred over the enamel. The “Atomium” takes its name from the delicate filigree of silvered metal that forms the outer section of the dome, its shape echoing the lines that link the stars to form constellations. Framed within this, on the domed celestial disc, midnight-blue grisaille enamel and a transferred star map amplify the visual connection to the cosmos.
The dials of the “Galaxia” and “Atomium” are encircled by three concentric rings that carry the indices for solar time. The inner ring, for 24 hours, and outer ring, displaying minutes, are finished in opaline; between them, the hour ring is decorated with enamel over a hand-guilloché base, with applied indexes.
The Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect complement to the artistic dials and mechanical sophistication of these sumptuous pieces. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel is complemented by broad bevels on the lugs; the hollowed-out sides of the lugs add dynamic tension, while the repeater slide is tapered to harmonise with the curving case sides. Different surfaces are microblasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light and emphasise the details.
When the Constellations Chime
This exceptional timepiece also takes Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in chiming watches to new heights by uniting the astronomical complications with a minute repeater – considered to be the most challenging and rewarding of all horological complications for a watchmaker to master. The technical difficulty of creating one lies in the complexity of the mechanism needed to transcribe the precise time shown by the hands into a series of perfectly programmed strikes, with different sounds for hours, quarters and minutes. The artistic challenge is that, this being a miniaturised musical instrument, the chimes must be pure, harmonious and clearly audible. At Jaeger-LeCoultre, this continuing quest for the ideal sound has produced several patented innovations, including crystal gongs, trebuchet hammers and a silent governor. In the minute repeater mechanism of Calibre 945, these inventions contribute a special magic that complements the romance of celestial timekeeping.
In every sense, the new Hybris Artistica interpretations of Calibre 945 are testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s enduring expertise in astronomical watches, its dedication to maintaining the fine balance between innovation and tradition, and its devoted quest for a perfect synthesis of art and mechanics.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 948
WHEN THE MÉTIERS RARES® ADORN UNIVERSAL TIME
Since the 1930s, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been creating timepieces able to display several time zones simultaneously. From dual-time watches to the Géographique and the remarkable Calibre 948 world timer, La Grande Maison makes time truly universal. For 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a magnificent new artistic interpretation of the Universal Time: Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, embellished with great finesse by the artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier.
· A new expression of the world-time complication unites artistry and technical prowess
· Multiple skills from the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier are brought together to create the domed, open-worked and enamelled dial – the product of 70 hours of work
· The Universal Tourbillon rotates in 60 seconds and makes a complete circuit of the dial in 24 hours
In the long history of timekeeping, time zones are relatively recent concept – but, like all measurements of time, have their origins in astronomy. The passage of our 24-hour day is based on the solar cycle, which is determined by the rotation of Earth on itself and its orbit around the Sun. Thus, as early navigators and explorers discovered, sunrise and sunset occur at different times in different places. With the development of maritime trade in the 18th century and railway travel in the 19th century, the need became clear for standardised timing – the synchronisation of clocks within a given geographical region – and for global norms to be established.
At the International Meridian Conference in 1884, it was decided that the Greenwich Observatory in London would be the prime meridian (longitude 0°) as the standard of time reckoning around the globe. Longitudes would be calculated both east and west from Greenwich up to 180° and the world’s universal day would be the Mean Solar Day, starting and ending at midnight at Greenwich and counted east and west from there – hence the terms ante meridian (am) and post meridian (pm). These resolutions were later formalised to create the 24 major time zones, each defined by 15 degrees of longitude.
When Jaeger-LeCoultre created the Calibre 948, it was the first time that a world-time complication had ever been united with a flying tourbillon. What’s more, the Universal Tourbillon makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours – the length of a mean solar day. A true expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise, the automatic calibre was conceived, developed and entirely produced within the Manufacture. The splendid new aesthetic expression of the world-time complication showcases La Grande Maison’s artistic creativity and mastery of the decorative crafts alongside its technical prowess.
A World of Time on the Dial
In a subtle allusion to the depth and complexity of time measurement, the dial is made of several parts.
At its centre, in keeping with world-timer tradition, is a map of the world as seen from the North Pole. However, unlike the traditional flattened image, this map floats above the dial bed on a domed skeleton formed by the longitudes and latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere. Created by the master artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™) atelier, the outline of the continents is cut from a sheet of white gold and decorated with champlevé enamel.
Champlevé – which translates literally as ‘raised field’ – is a noble and ancient enamelling technique that was first practiced almost 2,500 years ago. With great skill, the artisan must first carve out a depression in the raw metal, conforming exactly to the outline of the desired image – in this case, the shapes of the continents seen from the North Pole. This hollow area is then filled with multiple layers of enamel – fired at very high temperatures after each layer – until it is flush with the original surface. On the completed enamel surfaces, miniature-painted details of the continents’ major landscape features have been painstakingly added, enhancing the work with even greater intrigue and refinement.
For the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, the enamelling of a single dome requires 55 hours of work. Measuring just 25.5mm in diameter, each dial is a remarkable work of art in miniature, requiring almost 70 hours of meticulous work altogether.
Beneath the dome, representing the oceans, the dial bed is a disc of vivid blue translucent lacquer applied over a wavy guilloché pattern that suggests the movement of the sea and the lunar influence on its tides. In circular aperture to one side of the map, the flying tourbillon appears to float weightlessly above the blue oceans, spinning in 60 seconds
As on all classical world timers, each time zone is represented by the name of a city, arranged in a ring around the central dial. Set outside the city ring are two concentric fixed rings: a 24-hour indicator with applied numerals and rectangular indexes, and a minute track laser-engraved on a ring of blue lacquer that matches the blue oceans. Mimicking the rotation of Earth on its axis, the domed Earth map – together with the Universal Tourbillon and city ring – makes a complete 360-degree revolution in 24 hours, always indicating the right time in each city.
The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is very simple to read: the hour marked on the ring adjacent to the city name is the time in that city’s zone. It is equally simple to operate: the time is set with the crown, which synchronises all of the time zones around the world. On arrival at a new destination, local time is set by the same crown, which moves only the hour hand, in one-hour jumps forwards or backwards, allowing the minutes and seconds to continue running accurately.
The Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect complement to the dial. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel contrasts with broad bevels on the lugs, and the hollowed-out lug sides add dynamic tension. Different surfaces are microblasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light.
Blending art and mechanics, the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s dedication to maintaining the fine balance between a passionate drive to innovate and profound respect for tradition.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE ENRICHES THE POLARIS COLLECTION WITH A PERPETUAL CALENDAR
EMBARK ON A NEW PERPETUAL ADVENTURE
In 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a perpetual calendar to the Polaris line for the first time, enriching the collection with one of horology’s most complex, useful and prized complications. With a deep gradient-blue lacquer dial amplifying its sporty-elegant style, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox. Its newly developed, in-house movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA provides a display of the moon phases in both hemispheres, as well as an extended power reserve of 70 hours, in addition to the perpetual calendar displays and rotating inner bezel – a signature of the Polaris line.
· Redefining the modern sporty-elegant wristwatch, the Polaris perpetual calendar is powered by the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA
· A gradient-blue lacquer dial provides a visually rich and highly legible display of calendar indications and the moon phases in both hemispheres
· The 42mm case in steel or pink gold features a rapid-change attachment for the interchangeable straps
The historic Polaris name was reintroduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2018 with an entirely new line of watches that harness the Manufacture’s distinguished legacy of diving watches, and translate the spirit of the celebrated 1968 Memovox Polaris into contemporary form. Conceived for everyday adventures, with a combination of robust capabilities, practical functions and a distinctive aesthetic, the Polaris collection has redefined the modern sporty-elegant watch.
The Anomaly of Time – and a New Perpetual Calendar Calibre
The reason for the complexity of our calendar, with its leap years and different number of days in the months, lies in an anomaly between the way we measure civil time and the celestial phenomena on which those measurements are based.
Consequently, for watchmakers, a perpetual calendar is among the most challenging complications to master; a miniature mechanical computer, it must automatically adjust for months of different lengths and even for leap years. Unlike a simple date display, which needs to be adjusted at the end of every month that doesn’t have 31 days, a perpetual calendar will not need any manual correction until 2100 and, after that, only for the centenary years that are not leap years.
Ancient civilisations defined a year as the time it takes for the Sun to return to the same position in the sky, completing a full cycle of seasons. This solar (or “tropical”) year lasted approximately 365.2425 days – and led to the creation of the first calendars. However, a 365-day calendar year is almost six hours shorter than a solar year. The Julian Calendar, introduced in 46 BC by Julius Caesar, compensated by adding an extra day to February every fourth year. However, this was an over-compensation and in 1582, Pope Gregory XIII eliminated some leap years. According to the Gregorian Calendar, which we use to this day, any year that is divisible by 4, is a leap year; however, if it can also be divided by 100, it is not a leap year (for example 1900, 2100); nevertheless, those centenary years that can be divided by 400, are leap years (2000, 2400).
At the end of the 19th century, LeCoultre & Cie developed its first perpetual calendar pocket watches.
Due to the difficulty of creating such complex mechanisms on the tiny scale of a watch, the complication was still extremely rare when Jaeger-LeCoultre presented its first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1937. Since then, the Manufacture’s watchmakers have continuously improved the precision and quality of these remarkable mechanisms.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA developed for the Polaris Perpetual Calendar has evolved from the well-proven in-house perpetual calendar movement that first appeared in 2013. It has been upgraded in line with the Manufacture’s latest technical innovations and significantly modified, with a retrograde display of Southern Hemisphere moon phases complementing the classical Northern Hemisphere moon-phase display, as well as an increase in power reserve to 70 hours. Supplementing the calendar indications, the rotating inner bezel – a Polaris signature – offers the practical function of measuring elapsed time.
A Visually Rich Display
Lacquered in a deep gradient-blue colour, the dial of the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox. The graduated blue suggests the transition from day to night – a subtle reminder of the connection between celestial phenomena and time measurement.
With an emphasis on balance and legibility, the calendar indications are displayed in three sub-dials. The date, month and day indicators are at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively, with the year displayed within the month indicator. A pleasing reminder that calendars had their origins in astronomical phenomena, the moon phases are displayed at 6 o’clock – with a retrograde display for the Southern Hemisphere framing a classical display for its Northern counterpart. Each of the four sub-dials is slightly recessed and finished in different textures, adding visual richness as the light plays across them.
At the centre of the dial, a small security zone indicator shows red between the hours of 20:00 and 04:00 to warn the user not to adjust the time or calendar indications. Skeletonised hands allow greater visibility of the indications and, in keeping with the contemporary Polaris design codes, bold trapezoid-shaped indexes balance the complexity and fine detail of the calendar displays. Luminescent coating on hands and indexes enhances legibility in all light conditions – an essential attribute for a sport watch.
The 42mm cases, in steel or pink gold, feature the key Polaris design codes: taut lines, fine bezels, glass-box crystals, and an eye-catching mix of brushed and polished surfaces. A transparent sapphire crystal case-back and an open-worked pink gold winding rotor reveal the fine decorative finishes on the movement.
Crucially for a timepiece designed for everyday living, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is easy to operate and adjust. The top crown rotates the inner bezel – both features being Polaris signatures – while the lower crown is for setting the time and winding the watch. Calendar settings are adjusted via a single pusher.
Thanks to a newly developed interchangeable strap system, which is operated by simply pressing on the pushers integrated into the attachment point between the lugs, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is adaptable for every adventure. Capitalising on its sporty character, the steel model is offered with both a three-link steel bracelet and textured rubber strap, while the elegance of the pink gold model is complemented by a blue rubber strap and, for a more formal look, an alligator strap with a folding buckle. Adding to the options for personalisation is a collection of calfskin straps in a variety of colours.
True to La Grande Maison’s guiding philosophy of marrying tradition and modernity, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar now brings one of horology’s great complications into the world of contemporary sporting elegance.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE RENDEZ-VOUS DAZZLING STAR
CAPTURING THE UNPREDICTABLE STARS
Of all the celestial phenomena, shooting stars are the most romantic and intriguing. Unpredictable, ephemeral and mysterious, their light streaks across the night sky, appearing and disappearing in the blink of an eye. That they are not in fact stars but meteors – flashes of light created when rocky debris burns brightly on hitting Earth’s atmosphere – does nothing to diminish their magic. Visible only at certain times of year and under the right conditions, these rare phenomena have fascinated mankind since the dawn of time – and now have inspired the watchmakers of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
· Jaeger-LeCoultre invents an entirely new complication that captures the romance and unpredictability of shooting stars
· A blue Aventurine dial evokes the night sky, with multiple layers that conceal and reveal the shooting star; an outer bezel of griffe-set diamonds enriches the display
· The new automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 734 reconciles the randomness of shooting stars with the precisely calibrated, mathematical rhythms of timekeeping
In 2022, the Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star recreates this enchanting celestial phenomenon on the wrist, thanks to an entirely new mechanism conceived and developed within the Manufacture. Activated by the movement of the wrist, the shooting star appears on the dial at random moments – usually four to six times per hour – its unpredictability making it even more special. To enjoy the enchanting display more often, the star may also be summoned on demand by turning the winding crown several times.
An Exquisite Display Evokes the Night Sky
Entirely made of blue Aventurine, the dial of the new Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star exquisitely captures the beauty of a star-studded night sky. In the centre, framed by a ring of diamonds, three discs are layered over each other. The first layer, an oval of Aventurine, conceals the shooting star when it is inactive. Beneath it is a circular disc of Aventurine with a cut-out of the shooting star; when activated, this disc spins, sending the star on its curving path across the upper dial. As the star passes, the cut-out reveals the deepest layer of the dial – a fixed disc of golden metal with a glowing gradient finish that accentuates the sense of movement.
Loyal to the codes of the Rendez-Vous collection, this central display is surrounded by a ring of applied numerals in the signature Floral font and applied hemispherical hour markers. The time is indicated on these scales by golden Floral hands. Surrounding the 36mm pink gold case, the Dazzling Rendez-Vous bezel forms two concentric rings. There’s an airy quality to these glittering circles, thanks to the prong (or ‘griffe’) setting of the outer ring of 36 stones. A classical jewellery technique introduced in the Rendez-Vous collection in 2019, it is an exquisite testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s gem-setting expertise. Fine gold claws hold the diamonds high, allowing light to pass through them from every angle, maximising the presence of each stone while minimising the visible metal. To complete the watch case, the upper surfaces of the lugs are set with diamonds and an inverted diamond is set into the crown.
The rich blue of the dial is complemented by a shiny blue alligator strap with a folding buckle, or by a sumptuous, fully-set pink gold bracelet specially designed for the Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star. The bracelet’s lozenge-shaped links are grain-set with a total of 436 diamonds (for 4.88 carats) and linked seamlessly together, to wrap around the wrist with the suppleness of a ribbon.
Inspired and Created in the Vallée de Joux
To create a mechanism that expresses an unpredictable phenomenon is a fascinating challenge for watchmaking as it appears to defy the laws of horology – a world where everything is expressed through precisely calibrated, mathematical rhythms. Drawing on almost 190 years of expertise accumulated within the Manufacture, the engineers and watchmakers of Jaeger-LeCoultre have developed the new in-house automatic calibre 734, incorporating the new shooting star mechanism. In doing so, they have succeeded in an unprecedented feat of capturing a random cosmic phenomenon in a watchmaking complication.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE RENDEZ-VOUS STAR
UNPREDICTABLE STARS MAGNIFIED BY THE MÉTIERS RARES®
Unpredictable, ephemeral and mysterious, shooting stars are surely the most romantic and intriguing of all the celestial phenomena. Their light streaks across the night sky, appearing and disappearing in the blink of an eye. Even knowing that they are not stars but meteors – flashes of light created when rocky debris burns brightly on hitting Earth’s atmosphere – does nothing to diminish their magic. Visible only at certain times of year and under the right conditions, these rare phenomena have fascinated mankind since the dawn of time – and now have inspired the watchmakers of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
· Jaeger-LeCoultre invents an entirely new complication that captures the romance and unpredictability of shooting stars
· Rare artistic crafts decorate a multiple-level sapphire crystal dial set with diamonds, with micro hand-painted clouds and moon concealing and revealing the star
· The new automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 734 reconciles the randomness of shooting stars with the precisely calibrated, mathematical rhythms of timekeeping
In 2022, the Rendez-Vous Star recreates this enchanting celestial phenomenon on the wrist, thanks to an entirely new mechanism conceived and developed within the Manufacture. Activated by the movement of the wrist, the shooting star appears on the dial at random moments – usually four to six times per hour – its unpredictability making it even more special. To enjoy the enchanting display more often, the star may also be summoned on demand by turning the crown several times.
A Joyful Ode to the Night Sky
The Rendez-Vous Star is offered in two enchanting variations: a white gold case with a dial in subtle tones of silvery blue and a pink gold case with a dial in soft golden browns.
Inspired by the magic of shooting stars, the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™) atelier have harnessed their skills in new ways to depict the beauty and mystery of the night sky. Made of transparent sapphire glass, the uppermost of the dial’s three layers has been sprinkled with transferred stars and miniature hand-painted (on both sides of the sapphire glass) with clouds and a crescent moon, which conceal the shooting star when it is inactive.
Beneath this is a rotating circular disc of titanium with a cut-out of the shooting star – in an intense night blue for the white gold version and in a dark taupe colour for the pink gold version. When activated, the disc spins, sending the star on its curving path across the upper dial. As it passes, the cut-out reveals the deepest layer of the dial – a fixed disc of silvery or golden metal with a glowing gradient finish that accentuates the sense of movement.
Defining the trajectory of the shooting star, a three-quarter circle of diamonds is set into the sapphire glass dial. This is achieved by integrating fine gold threads directly into the glass to anchor the diamonds and enhance the effect of transparency and lightness.
The bezel is set with a circle of glittering diamonds that draw the eye towards the dial and, in keeping with the aesthetic codes of the Rendez-Vous, the upper surfaces of the lugs, and the top of the crown are also diamond-set. To complete these watchmaking treasures, an alligator leather strap, matched to the dial colour and given a glowing, pearlised finish, is fastened to the wrist by a folding buckle.
Inspired and created in the Vallée de Joux
To create a mechanism that expresses an unpredictable phenomenon is a fascinating challenge for watchmaking as it appears to defy the laws of horology – a world where everything is expressed through precisely calibrated, mathematical rhythms. Drawing on almost 190 years of expertise accumulated within the Manufacture, the engineers and watchmakers of Jaeger-LeCoultre have developed the new in-house automatic calibre 734, incorporating the new shooting star mechanism. In doing so, they have succeeded in an unprecedented feat of capturing a random cosmic phenomenon in a watchmaking complication. Uniting this technical acumen with La Grande Maison’s artistic skills, the Rendez-Vous Star gives poetic and whimsical expression to the enchantment of the night sky.
TECHNICAL DETAILS
ATMOS HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 590
Dimensions: 215mm diameter x 253mm height
Calibre: perpetual Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 590
Frequency: annular balance with 60-second oscillation
Functions: hours, minutes, night & day, month, moon phases, zodiacal calendar
Cabinet: cylindrical glass hand-painted with the constellations
Decorative finishes: inlaid meteorite; engraving; miniature painting; lacquer
Reference: Q5765300 – Limited edition of 10 pieces
ATMOS INFINITE
Dimensions: 215mm diameter x 253mm height
Calibre: perpetual Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 570
Frequency: annular balance with 60-second oscillation
Functions: hours, minutes
Cabinet: cylindrical glass
Reference: Q5405311
MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 945 GALAXIA
MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 945 ATOMIUM
Case: pink gold or white gold with micro-blasted, satin and polished finishes; sapphire case-back
Dimensions: 45mm x 16.05mm
Calibre: manual mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 945
Frequency: 28,800
Functions: hours/minutes, months, 24-hour indication; Cosmotourbillon indicating sidereal time; celestial disc with star chart indicating the constellations in the northern hemisphere in real time; minute repeater, zodiacal calendar
Power reserve: 40 hours
Dial: black dial with grisaille enamel (in pink gold case) or blue dial with silvered laser-welded structure (in white gold case)
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: alligator leather
References:
Q5262470 – pink gold version – Limited edition of 5 pieces
Q5263481 – white gold version – Limited edition of 5 pieces
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 948
Case: white gold; sapphire case-back
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.13mm
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948
Frequency: 28,800
Functions: hours/minutes, universal flying tourbillon, world-time display (24 time zones), 24-hour indication
Power reserve: 48 hours
Dial: blue translucent lacquer over a wavy guilloche pattern; domed skeleton structure decorated with champlevé enamel
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: alligator leather with deployant buckle
Reference: Q52834E1 – Limited edition of 20 pieces
Case: steel or pink gold
Dimensions: 42mm x 11.97mm
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA
Frequency: 28,800
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with moon phases in two hemispheres and red security zone, inner rotating bezel
Power reserve: 70 hours
Dial: gradient blue lacquer
Water resistance: 100m
References:
Q9088180 – steel version (interchangeable steel bracelet and rubber strap)
Q9082680 – pink gold version (interchangeable rubber strap and alligator leather strap)
RENDEZ-VOUS DAZZLING STAR
Case: pink gold, sapphire crystal case back
Dimensions: 36mm x 11.11mm
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 734
Functions: hours, minutes, “shooting star” complication
Power reserve: 70 hours
Dial: Aventurine, diamonds
Diamonds: Ref. Q3642470 (181 diamonds for 3.48 carats); Ref. Q3642371 (617 diamonds for 8.36 carats)
Water resistance: 5 bar
References:
Q3642470 – pink gold (leather strap)
Q3642371 – pink gold (fully-set pink gold bracelet)
RENDEZ-VOUS STAR
Case: white gold or pink gold
Dimensions: 36mm x 11.16mm
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 734
Functions: hours, minutes, “shooting star” complication
Power reserve: 70 hours
Dial: sapphire crystal set with diamonds & miniature hand-painting; titanium
Diamonds: 189 for 1.48 carats
Strap: shiny alligator with folding buckle
Water resistance: 5 bar
References:
Q36434C1 – white gold version
Q36424C1 – pink gold version
Jaeger-LeCoultre Stellar Odyssey Gallery
