Chopard took Baselworld 2019 by storm with its first flying tourbillon calibre – the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin. The sophistication and the elegance of the Flying T are doubled by the ethically certified “Fairmined” materials. The brand assured the finesse with the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark. A concise review. Or not!
Review Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin
The L.U.C Flying T Twin was presented during Baselworld 2019. A discussion about Chopard decision to launch now this piece is senseless. A second thought about reasons bring in mind words like maturity and calculated steps – characteristics of a gentleman.
Manners maketh man
One of the most important attributes of the 40mm case is the 18-carat ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold. Nowadays, one must be responsible for his action. Fairmining means the liability of the company, the importance and the engagement to keep the environment safe, the care for the people. A gentleman will never seek the fortune detrimentally to other human beings and to nature.
The incontestable elegance also comes from the watch’s dressing. The bodyside received a vertical brushing. As for perseverance, the decoration spread until the end of the lugs and inter-lugs. The slender lugs have the rest of the surface polished. Just like the front and the back of the watch.
The watch was designed as a versatile piece. Its subtility can make the piece look suitable for a generous array of wrist sizes, without the feel of forced marriage. The lugs are angled in a manner that will gentle embrace a smaller wrist. The same design will make the Flying T Twin look appropriate on a large wrist.
The crown is slightly pushed back, to the wrist (not at the mid-point of the case’s body, see the image above). The five millimetres gold crown comes with an adequate decoration – the L.U.C logo embossed on a polished background.
The polished inclined bezel makes just the passing from the case body to the spectacle of the dial.
I don’t take coffee, I take tea, my dear
After the relative simplicity of the exterior package, the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin dial is a complicated play. The show brings into attention several acts: a flying tourbillon, a complex patterned dial background and a well delimited time register. It does have a note of originality and uniqueness.
The hour indexes are gold gilded with 18k rose gold, matching the case. The indexes are applied on a snailed chapter ring with concentric circles. The minutes use a printed railway track. Each the fifth minutes received an extra detail – the index’s shape has the same footprint as the hours’ markers. God is in the details (and not the underground bastard, as in the expression often used…).
The hands received the same attention as the rest of the components. The gilded hands are manufactured as Dauphine fusée-type, adding an architectural keynote to the dial.
The central stage is filled with a hand-guilloché honeycomb motif. The pattern is elaborate. A careful look will reveal imperfections and the beauty of the imperfections generated by the handwork.
The star of the show is the six o’clock flying tourbillon. The piece doubles as a small seconds indication. The stunt is repeated with each passing minute. Each of the 60 seconds revolutions divulges the handwork of the master watchmaker. The file’s confessions can be read on the tourbillon carriage. You need to be a fine observer and a good listener. Because the details are there. I invite you to have a look in the gallery at the rest of the pictures and observe the marks of manual labour.
A gentleman will walk but never run
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin is powered by a piece of remarkable machinery – the calibre L.U.C 96.24-L. Presented as the first flying tourbillon for the Maison, the movement carries further, with distinction, the good name of Chopard.
The movement is exceptional finished. It has received the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark. The Geneva stripes are astounding. The bridges received a lovely polished chamfering, as well, polished jewels’ and screws’ sink. The perlage is delightful: severe attention will notice the fact that the watchmakers rushed the final stage of the perlage. Not unpleasant. It is just a decision of decoration style, to give more body for the final pass.
The movement is based on the magical L.U.C Caliber 96. The evolution kept the thickness of 3.30mm. The “Twin” nomenclature comes from the Chopard’s patented Twin Technology: two stacked barrels, offering a staggering 65-hours of power reserve. The balance-spring with flat terminal curve beats with 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz).
Modesty, propriety can lead to notoriety
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin is himself a gentleman. Don’t get fooled by the apparent simplicity. A first frugal look will show a gold watch with tourbillon. Careful consideration will show a smartly designed case with nice decorations. The dial displays a complex spectacle of patterns and shapes. Plus a novelty for the brand, in the person of the flying tourbillon. The backside presents another story. The Chopard’s marvellous decorations highlight the next step in the brand’s movements’ evolution – the flying tourbillon.
The mannered Flying T Twin is dedicated to a connoisseur of Fine Watchmaking. It was a genuine pleasure to meet it in the flesh.
Don’t forget about the article gallery at the end of the article.
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Specification and Price
- 18-karat rose gold
- Total diameter: 40 mm
- Thickness: 7.20 mm
- Water resistance: 30 metres
- 18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo: 5.00 mm
- Vertical satin-brushed case middle and inter-horn spaces
- Polished bezel and back
- Glareproofed sapphire crystal
- Exhibition back fitted with a transparent sapphire crystal pane
- Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.24-L
- Number of components: 190
- Total diameter: 27.40 mm
- Thickness: 3.30 mm
- Number of jewels: 25
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power reserve: 65 hours
- Flying tourbillon performing one rotation per minute
- Two barrels – Chopard Twin Technology
- Winding via an engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor
- Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève pattern
- Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
- Chronometer-certified (COSC)
- ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark
Dial and hands:
- Solid gold dial with grey ruthenium surface achieved by galvanic treatment
- Snailed chapter ring with concentric circles
- Railway-type minutes track
- Applied hour-markers and tourbillon ring gilded with 18-karat rose gold
- Central medallion with a hand-guilloché honeycomb motif
- Gilded Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands
- White triangle-shaped small seconds hand affixed to the flying tourbillon carriage
Functions and displays:
- Central display of the hours and minutes
- Small seconds appearing at 6 o’clock on the flying tourbillon carriage
Strap and buckle:
- Hand-sewn plant-dyed matt black alligator leather strap with cognac-coloured alligator leather lining
- 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
Ref. 161978-5001- in 18-carat ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold, 50-piece limited edition: €109,000 / $118,500
The official Chopard Gallery with the Making Of
The steps in the creation of the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin. Images credit to Chopard.