The combination of perpetual calendar and hand-wound chronograph has long been regarded by connoisseurs as one of the highest expressions of the watchmaker’s craft, which Chopard mastered five years ago with the presentation of its first L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono timepiece. The latter houses the L.U.C 03.10-L movement, a veritable horological marvel notable for its integration of the most prestigious chronograph and perpetual calendar achievements. Carrying both “Chronometer certification” and the esteemed Poinçon de Genève, this masterpiece is now transformed with a lightweight grade 5 titanium case corresponding to the lifestyle of the contemporary gentleman. Combined with an artfully pared-back aesthetic, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono, produced as a limited edition of 20 pieces, offers a truly modern approach to classical Fine Watchmaking.
A lightweight and versatile material
One of very few titanium perpetual calendar chronographs on the market, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono timepiece presents an innovative alternative for collectors seeking options besides gold or platinum, while retaining the sense of precious rarity found in watchmaking at its most prestigious.
Crucially, titanium’s lightweight nature ensures the 45-millimetre timepiece is an ergonomic and comfortable watch for everyday wear, while the short lugs make it a perfect fit for any wrist.
A high-precision perpetual calendar chronograph movement
The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is powered by the L.U.C 03.10-L movement, testifying to exceptional craftsmanship. This beautiful and complex mechanism was entirely developed and produced in Chopard Manufacture’s workshops and gave rise to four invention patents.
The movement’s architecture is based on a construction reflecting the highest level of execution. At the heart of this mechanism, a column wheel precisely coordinates the functions of the chronograph, while a patented vertical coupling clutch ensures actuation that is light to the touch but utterly exact. The flyback function allows immediate reuse of the chronograph without the need to stop and reset. When the zero-reset pusher is pressed, however, the instantaneous movement of the counters and central sweep seconds hand is managed by patented progressive-contact hammers that guarantee optimal precision. Finally, a semi-instantaneous jumping minute counter ensures the precise display of chronograph minutes. All chronograph functions are highlighted on the dial by red details.
The patented perpetual calendar mechanism, crafted so that its displays integrate perfectly with the chronograph functions, is no less inventive. In particular, the high precision orbital moon phase, a showpiece of the dial design at 6 o’clock, is accurate to just a day’s deviation every 122 years.
The best guarantees of excellence
Testifying to its stature among the finest feats of Fine Watchmaking, the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono timepiece is doubly certified as a “Chronometer” by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – denoting superior performance for accuracy and reliability under varied conditions – as well as by the Poinçon de Genève, synonymous with the highest levels of hand finishing and aesthetic quality throughout the wristwatch.
The movement, exhibiting a multitude of opulent hand finishes across its complex plates and bridges, is visible through the watch’s display case-back.
Traditional watchmaking, contemporary style
The elegant dial features a wide, twin-aperture instantaneous date display at 12 o’clock, with indications for the days of the week, the month, position in the leap year cycle and day/night display with a large orbital moon-phase at 6 o’clock.
This highly complex but perfectly legible dial is a work of art in itself. The slate grey surface, created via a galvanic treatment on an 18-carat gold base, is decorated with a sunburst guilloché pattern.
With its subtle decoration, pared-back hour-markers and palette of soft greys with sporty bursts of red for the chronograph indications, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in grade 5 titanium offers a contemporary take on Fine Watchmaking in keeping with its lightweight casing.
A grey strap in soft, nubuck calfskin further strengthens the sense of a Grand Complication watch that is understated and versatile, yet utterly distinct in its finesse and beauty.
25 years of excellence, innovation and tradition
In 2021, Chopard Manufacture is proud to mark the 25th anniversary of its creation in Fleurier. In 1996, when Swiss watchmaking was still emerging from the struggles of the quartz crisis, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele committed to defending and restoring the crafts and techniques that had been passed down through generations of watchmakers. In the village of Fleurier, where watchmaking heritage goes back over 200 years, Chopard Manufacture would become a force for the finest techniques in traditional watchmaking, hand finishing and artistic crafts. At the same time, it has been able to innovate across the full range of modern watch production operations, from case-making to movement development, advanced metallurgy and component manufacture. In particular, it has put chronometry – the ultimate measure of horological excellence – at the heart of all its activities.
It is thanks to this thriving hub of unique skills, and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s vision of what a modern Fine Watchmaking Manufacture could be, that Chopard has been able to create timepieces that are truly valued by connoisseurs – gentlemen who recognise that passion and artistry will combine to create extraordinary masterpieces.
L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Technical Specifications and Price
Ref. 168611-3001 – in grade 5 titanium fitted with a grey nubuck calfskin strap
Numbered 20-piece limited edition
Functions and displays
- Central display of the hours and minutes
- Small seconds at 6 o’clock
- Instantaneous large date at 12 o’clock
- Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
- Moon phases appearing in a rotating aperture at 6 o’clock
- Off-centred day/night display at 10 o’clock and off-centred leap-year display at 2 o’clock
- Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
- 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
- 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock with semi-instantaneous minutes display
- Stop-seconds function
- Mechanical movement with manual winding L.U.C 03.10-L
- Number of components 452
- Total diameter 33.00 mm
- Thickness 8.32 mm
- Number of jewels 42
- Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power reserve approx. 60 hours
- Perpetual calendar – patented mechanism
- Integrated column-wheel chronograph
- Patented return-to-zero device with pivoting hammers and elastic arm
- Patented chronograph seconds hand return-to-zero system
- Patented vertical clutch device
- Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
- Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
- Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
- Chronometer-certified (COSC)
- Poinçon de Genève
- Grade 5 titanium
- Total diameter 45 mm
- Thickness 15.06 mm
- Water resistance 30 metres
- Titanium crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
- Titanium pushers
- Vertical satin-brushed case middle
- Polished bezel and case-back
- Exhibition case-back
Dial and hands
- Black rhodium-toned and hand-guilloché solid gold dial, with beams radiating from the date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – Red and black transfers
- Rhodium-plated hour-markers
- Chronograph and perpetual calendar function counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment and ruthenium-treated appliques
- Snailed-finish day/night and leap-year counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment
- Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes
- Rhodium-plated Dauphine-type hands for the small seconds as well as the day and month calendar indications
- Rhodium-plated triangular-shaped hands for the day/night and leap-year calendar indications
- Rhodium-plated red-tipped Dauphine-type hands for the chronograph hours and minutes counters
- Baton-type red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
- Minutes track with white and red details
Strap and clasp
- Hand-sewn grey nubuck calfskin strap with nubuck lining and tone-on-tone stitching
- Folding clasp in grade 5 titanium
- CHF 74,900