The ultimate in precision fused with consummate aesthetics – Glashütte’s watchmaking artistry never fails to charm. A maxim the Moritz Grossmann manufactory lives by wholeheartedly, taking it to the pinnacle of performance by manufacturing the hands in-house. Moritz Grossmann is one of a small circle of global manufacturers that has mastered this time-consuming, traditional craft and is now breathing new life into it. Manufacturing this essential element – literally the central character for displaying the time – is considered an art in itself.
This is certainly true for exquisite gold hands, which will preserve their superior value over decades and centuries to come. Grossmann’s skilled specialists spend an entire day perfecting a single set of hands by hand, including the hand bushings. This time-consuming procedure commences by milling and eroding the blank from a gold plate, the fine gold dust is also collected in the process. The blank is then carefully ground all the way around using diamond files. Extraordinary skill, considerable patience and many years of experience are essential for shaping the contours and curves, and for smoothing and polishing all sides and surfaces down to the fractions of a millimetre.
The hand finishers at Moritz Grossmann are only satisfied once the characteristic, fine tip of the silhouette is perfect.
Moritz Grossmann now proudly unveils two new models, the HAMATIC VINTAGE and the TOURBILLON, both featuring handcrafted 750/000 rose gold hands for the first time. The exquisite dials of the two models come in a deep black and beautifully accentuate the fine gold hands. Framed by a rose gold case, the result is a supremely elegant ensemble and the perfect embodiment of Grossmann’s watchmaking artistry.
THE HAMATIC VINTAGE WITH ROSE GOLD LANCE HAND
Limited to eight pieces worldwide, the special edition HAMATIC Vintage features a ‘black-or’ dial with long, slender index hands in solid gold. The delicate tip of these hands lends a charming touch to the time display.
An elaborate manual process is used to create the exceptionally exquisite ‘black-or’ dial of the HAMATIC Vintage. Several layers of anthracite lacquer are applied to a base of precious German silver and polished until a subtle, gleaming, mirror-like surface emerges. The final touch involves a transparent layer to fix the expressive ‘black or’ dial in place.
A NEW INTERPRETATION OF THE SELF-WINDING HAMMER MECHANISM
People commonly associate a hammer with a crude working tool made for heavy labour. It is hard to imagine this tool being used in the delicate microcosm of a movement. That this is the case, however, illustrates once more just how wondrous and astonishing the world of precision watchmaking is in general, and Grossmann’s in particular.
The Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC is the most beautiful example of this traditional philosophy. This self-winding three-hand watch is not powered by a rotor, as is usually the case. Instead, a small pendulum in the shape of a hammer with a heavy gold hammer head takes on this essential role; the pendulum is constantly deflected by the movement of the wearer’s arm. This kinetic energy is transferred via the ratchet wheel to the mainspring in the barrel and winds the watch.
Inspired by models from the 19th century, the advantages of this powerful mechanism lie not only in the high torque and resultant optimisation of energy, but also in the open design, most notably the oval hammer body, which gives a fascinating view right into the very depths of the movement. As is to be expected, all parts of the Calibre 106.0 – even those that are not visible – are exquisitely finished in typical Grossmann fashion. The result is a feast for the eyes that will not fail to impress aficionados and connoisseurs everywhere.
THE TOURBILLON WITH ROSE-GOLD RHOMBUS HANDS – THE PINNACLE OF COMPLICATIONS IN AN EXQUISITE FORM
This new eight-piece limited edition of the Grossmann TOURBILLON also boasts hands made of 750/000 rose gold. Shaped like an elongated rhombus and ending in a wafer-thin tip, the hands have the instrumental character that is the hallmark of the manufactory. Combined with the dark tone of the jet-black solid silver dial on which the hands rotate, the result is one of profound elegance.
GROSSMANN’S THREE-MINUTE TOURBILLON, STOP-SECONDS MECHANISM MADE FROM HUMAN HAIR AND DIVIDED MINUTE DISPLAY
The tourbillon has been a symbol of the finest watchmaking craftsmanship since the 18th century. Originally developed to improve the accuracy of pocket watches, the mechanism is as complex as it is delicate and entirely in keeping with the philosophy of Moritz Grossmann, the grand master of the art of watchmaking in Glashütte and namesake of the manufactory. His chief concern was always increasing precision. The manufactory presented its first hand-wound movement with the tourbillon in 2013, making its début in the BENU line.
As is only to be expected from the Moritz Grossmann manufactory, the calibre 103.0 is an outstanding example of Glashütte’s contemporary interpretation of precision watchmaking. It boasts a long list of technical and aesthetic refinements, some of which have been patented. Most notable, however, is Grossmann’s spectacular three-minute tourbillon, which cannot fail to catch the eye at six o’clock.
To halt the balance smoothly, the stop device must move past the triangular frame posts. It accomplishes this with the aid of an elastic brush made from human hair, which provides the most gentle and reliable solution. This masterpiece of precision mechanics consists of 59 exquisitely crafted components and rotates counter-clockwise once every three minutes.
Moritz Grossmann has used a creative trick to get around the dilemma posed by the mechanism covering the space for the minute display between 25 and 35 in the lower part of the dial: this time span is mirrored in a scale below the twelve and swept by the extension of the central minute hand. The width of the wafer-thin tips is calculated with the utmost accuracy, allowing the time to be read with precision.
LIMITED TO EIGHT WATCHES WORLDWIDE
Limited to eight pieces worldwide, both models come with a hand-sewn black alligator leather strap.
HAMATIC VINTAGE AND TOURBILLON IN THE ONLINE BOUTIQUE
The new models together with the entire collection are now available in the new Moritz Grossmann Online Boutique.
The Online Boutique gives customers the opportunity to design their Moritz Grossmann watch just the way they want it. Timepiece connoisseurs can try straps to see which colour best suits their preferred model. They can also choose the strap length and type of clasp.
As an independent manufactory, Moritz Grossman is able to manufacture with the utmost flexibility. The manufactory can fulfil individual customer requirements, from unique pieces and special editions to small-scale limited editions. If a bespoke item is on a customer’s wish list, the concierge service at the manufactory can offer a personal consultation to discuss the design and manufacture of the timepiece.
Technical data HAMATIC Vintage golden hands
- Manufactory calibre 106.0, automatic winding, regulated in five positions
- No. of parts 312
- Jewels 38, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
- Escapement Lever escapement
- Oscillator Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring
- Balance Diameter: 10.0 mm, frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour
- Power reserve 72 hours when fully wound
- Functions Hour and minute, small second with stop seconds
- Operating elements Crown in 750/000 gold for winding the watch and setting the time
- Movement dimensions Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.15 mm
- Three-part, in 750/000 gold
- Case dimensions Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm
- Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side
- ‘Black-or’ shiny black, white Roman numerals
- Handcrafted from 750/000 gold, polished
- Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in 750/000 gold
Grossmann balance; click pawl in reduction gear; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver, hand-engraved 2/3 plate and cantilevered balance cock; wide, horizontal Glashütte ribbing, double-band snailing on the mainspring barrel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting; automatic winding with oscillating hammer, bidirectional click wheels; idler with pawl clicks, manual yoke winder.
Technical data Benu TOURBILLON gold hands
- Manufactory calibre 103.0, manual winding, regulated in five positions
- No. of parts 245 (wheel train 186 / cage 59)
- Jewels 30 jewels, of which 4 in screwed gold chatons (drive train 17, cage 13)
- Escapement Lever escapement
- Oscillator Grossmann three-minute tourbillon with stop seconds, shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, suspended Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
- Cage diameter 16.0 mm
- Cage speed 1 revolution in three minutes, counter-clockwise on the dial side
- Balance Diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
- Power reserve 72 hours when fully wound
- Functions Sweep minutes, off-centre hours and seconds, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
- Operating elements Crown in 750/000 gold to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the watch
- Movement dimensions Diameter: 38.4 mm, height: 7.1 mm
- Three-part, in 750/000 gold
- Case dimensions Diameter: 44.5 mm, height: 13.9 mm
- Crystal/display back Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side
- Solid silver, three-parts, black with Arabic numerals
- Manually crafted from 750/000 gold, polished
Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid butterfly clasp in 750/000 gold
Flying three-minute tourbillon with screw-secured driving wheel and V-shaped balance bridge (design patent pending), sweep minutes, off-centre hours and seconds with stop seconds, replacement of the missing minute scale segment from 25 to 35 minutes with a separate scale swept by the extension of the minute hand on the opposite side (patented); stop-seconds at the balance wheel rim with a pivoting fine-hair brush (patented); asymmetric-arm lever escapement with counterweight and lever banking pin; Grossmann balance with suspended balance spring, adjustable with poising screws in the rim; newly developed mainspring barrel jewel bearing; brake ring on the fourth-wheel arbor made of very hard, oily guaiacum; ARCAP train wheels; Grossmann winder with pusher to deactivate the hand-setting mode and start the movement; modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and frame pillars in untreated German silver; hand-engraved 2/3 plate and tourbillon cock; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; white sapphire bearing jewels; separately removable clutch winding mechanism