The TEFNUT model incorporates all the classic virtues associated with the Moritz Grossmann manufactory: a simple design that embodies pure understatement coupled with high-quality materials that are finished by hand. Moreover, every single detail, no matter how small, is absolutely perfect. The model from the TEFNUT line has now been given a completely new look: with a dial that has been hand silver-plated by friction, the new Moritz Grossmann TEFNUT silver-plated by friction exudes a confident and elegant presence.
All watches produced by the Moritz Grossmann manufactory in Glashütte have one thing in common: they fascinate from every perspective. Whether you look at the ‘face’ of the watch – the dial with hands – or the movement, the high-quality standards of the German watch brand and its keen sense of original details are evident at every turn.
And this is proven once again by the TEFNUT silver-plated by friction, which has been selected to be the new basic model for the Tefnut line. Its dial is what gives this new product a distinctive sparkle, exemplified by a simple, reduced style with a touch of elegance.
Grain or silver-plating by friction: traditional craftsmanship applied to the dial
The surface of the dial has a velvety, matt structure that has been created using a 19th century technique handed down through the generations, namely grain or silver-plating by friction. This is carried out by hand in the Moritz Grossmann ateliers. A special paste comprising silver powder, salt, cream of tartar and water is rubbed on using a small brush and worked in until the structure exhibits a fine grain. The surface is then perfected with a careful final polish. Every single one of these steps must be executed with a great deal of sensitivity and requires a delicate touch combined with experience. This is why only a few experts have mastered this traditional technique. However, the end result justifies the time it takes: the interplay of light and shadow, gloss and matt creates a unique effect that contributes to creating the distinctive charm of the TEFNUT.
The dial: contrasting colours and fine lines
Contrasting black elements serve to highlight the surface of the dial: all numerals and lettering, the minute scale and historic logo ‘M. Grossmann.’ dating from 1875 are set in black lacquer. The dial was then fired in the kiln. As the silver powder does not adhere to lacquer, the lacquered surfaces do not end up being silver plated themselves.
The fine curve of the numerals matches the brown-violet annealed hands. These are made by hand in a series of elaborate steps. Their gently rounded lines and delicate tip catch the eye of any beholder.
The case: a format to suit every wrist
The new TEFNUT silver-plated by friction has a diameter of 39 millimetres, making it the perfect companion for any wrist. The case is available in either exquisite rose gold or expressive stainless steel and has a classic, slimline silhouette.
The flat design makes it all the more comfortable to wear and also ensures an elegant appearance. Characteristic details include the crown adorned with transverse grooves, the slim lugs and a strap made from hand-sewn alligator leather. The case in rose gold is combined with brown alligator leather, while the stainless steel version is worn on a black alligator leather strap.
The hand-wound calibre 102.1: a mechanism of perfect aesthetics
The proven calibre 102.1, which is just four millimetres high with a diameter of 26 millimetres, works its magic inside the TEFNUT silver-plated by hand, lending elegance to the case. Its carefully planned architecture is combined with all the typical features of a Grossmann calibre.
The hand-wound movement comprises a classic pillar movement formed of a main plate and 3/5 plate. Typical elements include a stepped balance cock with Grossmann micrometer screw and the raised chatons.
Both the construction and sophisticated finish are typical of the Glashütte watch manufactory: the plates bear the distinctive Glashütte ribbing, while the brand name is engraved by hand in block capitals. The balance cock is also engraved by hand with a fine, floral pattern. Another typical feature is the white sapphires as jewels that are set in gold chatons and held by brown-violet screws.
The TEFNUT line
The TEFNUT collection is part of the ‘Classic’ line by Moritz Grossmann and comprises various versions including the TEFNUT Sleeping Beauty and TEFNUT Lady. In future, the basic model of the collection will be the new model TEFNUT silver-plated by friction.
Moritz Grossmann TEFNUT silver-plated by friction Technical Specifications
Versions
- Reference: MG-003516 – 43.200 €
- Case: 750/000 rose gold
- Dial: Engraved, set in black and hand silver-plated by friction
- Hands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue
- Reference: MG-003517 – 30.200 €
- Case: Stainless steel
- Dial: Engraved, set in black and hand silver-plated by friction
- Hands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue
Special features
- Shock-resistant balance with inertia and poising screws, impulse pin integrated in rim;
- flat balance spring;
- balance staff with integrated safety roller;
- adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw;
- plate movement with 3/5 plate, frame pillars and separately removable clutch winding mechanism;
- raised gold chatons with pan-head screws;
- remodified Glashütte stopwork with backlash;
- mainspring barrel with bilateral jewel bearings for optimised power management in the low-torque range;
- ARCAP
Movement
- Manufactory calibre 102.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
- No. of parts 188
- Jewels 22, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
- Escapement Lever escapement
- Oscillator Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with four inertia screws and two poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring
- Balance Diameter: 10.0 mm, frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour
- Power reserve 48 hours when fully wound
- Functions Hour, minute
Case
- Operating elements Crown in 750/000 gold or stainless steel for winding the watch and setting the time
- Case dimensions Diameter: 39.0 mm, height: 8.5 mm
- Movement dimensions Diameter: 26.0 mm, height: 3.5 mm
- Case Three-part, in 750/000 gold or stainless steel
- Crystal/display back Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Dial
- Engraved, set in black and hand silver-plated by friction
- Hands Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue
Strap
- Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in 750/000 gold or stainless steel
Moritz Grossmann watches
Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden in 1826, was deemed a visionary among Germany’s great horologists. In 1854, his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange persuaded the young, highly talented watchmaker to establish his own mechanical workshop in Glashütte. Apart from building a respected watchmaking business, Grossmann was committed to political and social causes. He established the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Moritz Grossmann passed away unexpectedly in 1885, after which his manufacture was liquidated.
The spirit of Moritz Grossmann’s horological traditions sprang back to life in 2008 when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter discovered the venerable Glashütte brand and had it re-registered. She developed concepts and was inspired by the vision of reviving Grossmann’s legacy more than 120 years later with a particularly exquisite wristwatch. And she convinced private watch enthusiasts to support her in making this dream come true. On 11 November 2008 she founded Grossmann Uhren GmbH in Glashütte. At Grossmann, gifted watchmakers are preserving traditions without copying historic timepieces. With innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious materials, they celebrate ‘Schönstes deutsches Handwerk’ with their timepieces.