Panerai unveils its Radiomir Quaranta collection in steel and precious versions during Milan Design Week marking the Maison’s debut as an official partner of the 2023 Salone del Mobile.
The origins where it all began
For over a century, the Panerai family legacy has been intertwined with precision instruments made to accompany the Italian military in their exploits. Commissioned by the Royal Italian Navy to supply high-precision instruments, it was Guido Panerai’s Radiomir – a radiumbased substance that illuminates for visibility in the dark – that began it all when it was patented in 1916.
An archival receipt shows that the Radiomir prototype was presented in 1935, and over the years, the sandwich construction has been progressively adjusted and is currently made of only two superimposed plates. Other improvements include the crown-protecting device, and a new luminous substance, the Luminor. A watch produced strictly for the military, the forces used it until the early 1970s, with its designs protected by military secrets.
Officine Panerai leapt into the commercial watch market in 1992, launching three collections of ten references in limited editions – the 44 mm Luminor and Luminor Marina watches and the 42 mm Mare Nostrum chronograph, which were presented on 10 September 1993 at the La Spezia military harbor in the presence of Duke Amedeo D’Aosta, son of Sir Aimone di Savoia, the then supreme head of the Italian diving department. Radiomir was only made public in 1997 when the Vendome Group – today Richemont Group – acquired Panerai, introducing the first Vendome special edition in sixty pieces – the PAM 21 model in a platinum version.
The acquisition advanced Panerai’s history into contemporary developments from the reopening of the historic boutique in Piazza San Giovanni to the establishment of the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel where fine Swiss watchmaking meet innovation driven by an Italian soul. With a century of innovative instruments developed for performance in response to evolving technical needs, Panerai projects into the future via research, strategic partnerships, sustainability, and empowering modern heroes.
These initiatives include eSteel™, a next-generation metal obtained from pre-consumer recycled steel scraps (up to 95%) coming from different industries, preferably from Swiss watchmaking industry, whose production significantly reduces CO2 emissions, and a partnership with the IOC-UNESCO to develop solutions with the aim of building a more sustainable, equitable society.
Radiomir Quaranta Steel, a contemporary spirit of the original
Bringing a casual touch to the Radiomir Quaranta collection is the Steel collection, where universality reigns for modern-day watch lovers. The distinctive timepieces mark Panerai’s debut as an official partner of the 2023 Salone del Mobile, where the Maison will be present within the globally renowned design institution’s week-long fair with a special installation.
A faithful homage to where it all began, Radiomir Quaranta, is the contemporary interpretation of the Maison’s first-ever watch bringing the look of the legendary navy divers of the 1940s to discerning watch lovers of the modern century. Pared down yet commanding in presence, Radiomir Quaranta features elements distinctly linked to its origins, appealing to connoisseurs who identify with the brand’s history and expertise. Iconic details and precision are reinvented in a collection expressing the discreet Italian elegance of the Maison’s roots, where culture meets its esteemed technical instrument-making expertise.
The new Radiomir Quaranta Steel collection is available in four versions, a white dial with beige Super-LumiNova® and brown strap (PAM01292), a blue dial with white Super LumiNova® and dark blue strap (PAM01293), a dark anthracite dial with beige Super-LuminNova® and black strap (PAM01294). And for the first time ever, Panerai pairs the exquisite sun-brushed green dial with a polished steel case in a dashingly sophisticated reference. Matched with an alligator brown bracelet, PAM 01386 is an e-commerce exclusive.
Reflecting the signature details of the Radiomir Quaranta collection, the Steel timepieces feature a sun-brushed sandwich dial with indexes and numerals only at twelve and six o’clock that reflects light rays with the wearer’s movement, while the Super-Luminova® illuminates in green in the dark. The straps of the watches are also interchangeable with selections from Panerai’s wide range in various colors.
Quaranta, forty in Italian, stands for the 40mm case size that defines the collection’s essence – a contemporary adaptation of the 47mm size of the original Radiomir edition made some eight decades ago. Measuring 10.15mm in thickness, the watch’s case is the slimmest in the entire Panerai’s range, proposing a versatile silhouette for all genders and occasions. The cone-shaped crown – a distinguishing element of the Radiomir collection – paired with its semi-matte alligator strap exudes understated and relaxed luxury to match modern lifestyles.
Technical details include the P.900 caliber a 4.2mm thick next-generation automatic movement, the first of its size from Panerai to combine the date and three days of power reserve, and water-resistance to 5 bar (~50 metres).
Resplendent in all their golden glory, the Radiomir Quaranta precious collection
Along with the steel references, Panerai will also present the Radiomir Quaranta GoldTech™ and Radiomir Quaranta in yellow gold as part of the precious collection during Milan Design Week.
The Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech™ is set in a polished Goldtech™ case (PAM01026), matched with a white sun-brushed dial and a matt brown alligator strap. Panerai Goldtech™ is a gold material developed for the first time by Panerai, including a combination of platinum and copper that gives the material an intense red appearance.
A boutique exclusive available only in 500 pieces per year, PAM01437 is set in a yellow gold case, a well-loved classic of the brand, and is matched with a sun-brushed green dial, an ode to Panerai’s signature green colour, with white Super-LuminNova® and matt black alligator strap.
Like the steel collection, the precious collection features the iconic cushion-shaped case, interchangeable straps from Panerai’s extensive range of colors, and finishes, including calf for a casual look and shiny alligator versions in a multitude of bright shades for women.
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Technical Specifications
References
- PAM01292 – $ 6,000 / 6.100 €
- PAM01293 – $ 6,000 / 6.100 €
- PAM01294 – $ 6,000 / 6.100 €
- PAM01386 – $ 6,000 / 6.100 €
Movement
- Automatic mechanical P.900 calibre,
- 12½ lignes, 4.2mm thick,
- 23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour.
- Incabloc™ anti-shock device.
- One barrel.
- 171 components
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Power Reserve: 3 days
Case
- Diameter 40mm. Polished steel case, polished steel bezel,
- steel case back. Sapphire crystal formed of corundum.
- Waterproof: 3 bar (~30 meters), soon 5 bar (~50 meters)
Dial
- White/Blue/Black/Green sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
- Date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Strap
- Alligator dark brown/dark blue/black/dark brown
- T/T, 24/18, BA, STD
Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech Technical Specifications
Reference PAM01026 – $ 18,200 / 18.500 €
Movement
- Automatic mechanical P.900 calibre,
- 12½ lignes, 4.2mm thick,
- 23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour.
- Incabloc™ anti-shock device.
- One barrel.
- 171 components
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Power Reserve: 3 days
Case
- Diameter 40mm. Polished steel case, polished steel bezel,
- steel case back. Sapphire crystal formed of corundum.
- Waterproof: 3 bar (~30 meters), soon 5 bar (~50 meters)
Dial
- White sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
- Date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Strap
- Alligator dark brown
- T/T, 24/18, BA, STD
Radiomir Quaranta Yellow Gold Technical Specifications
Reference PAM01437
Movement
- Automatic mechanical P.900 calibre,
- 12½ lignes, 4.2mm thick,
- 23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour.
- Incabloc™ anti-shock device.
- One barrel.
- 171 components
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Power Reserve: 3 days
Case
- Diameter 40mm, polished yellow gold.
- See-through sapphire crystal and yellow gold case back.
- Yellow gold bazel. Sapphire crystal formed of corundum.
- Waterproof: 3 bar (~30 meters), soon 5 bar (~50 meters)
Dial
- Gren sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
- Date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Strap
- Alligator black
- T/T, 24/18, BA, STD
About Panerai
Founded in Florence in 1860 as a workshop, shop and subsequently school of watch-making, for many decades Panerai supplied the Italian Navy and its specialist diving corps in particular with precision instruments.
The designs developed by Panerai in that time, including the Luminor and Radiomir, were covered by the Military Secrets Act for many years and were launched on the international market only after the brand was acquired by the Richemont Group in 1997.
Today Panerai develops and crafts its movements and watches at its Neuchâtel manufacture. The latter are a seamless melding of Italian design flair and history with Swiss horological expertise. Panerai watches are sold across the world through an exclusive network of distributors and Panerai boutiques.