Ferdinand Berthoud launched this year at Baselworld their first Moon phase indication in the FB collection. The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L series consists of two models, 10 pieces limited series each: FB 1L.1 “Near Side of the Moon” and FB 1L.4 “Far Side of the Moon”. Today I will present you both pieces in a very short hands-on review but with a large (70 images gallery and 4 videos). Enjoy!
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L – The two faces of the Moon
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L combines the tourbillon and chain fusee with the age and phases of the moon. Specific to the brand, the adopted solution for the new complication is done in the true spirit of the Ferdinand Berthoud. Below, a presentation of the new complication:
The FB 1L Chronometer displays the age and phases of the moon as two separate measurements. The moon phase visually indicates the different lunar cycles. It is displayed using four phases: new moon, first quarter, full moon and last quarter. A lunation or lunar cycle is the time interval between two new moons. A symbolic and aesthetic complication, the moon phase does not, however, offer the accuracy necessary for astronomical use.
The age of the moon is a more accurate indicator which counts the number of days since the last new moon. This veritable scientific measuring instrument, coupled with the chronometric measurement of time, made it possible to determine longitude at sea with unparalleled accuracy nearly 270 years ago.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L is powered by an in-house calibre. The movement uses suspended fusee-and-chain construction. This offers a constant force for the tourbillon escapement. The spectacular construction is doubled by the beautiful direct-drive seconds’ complication (seconds wheel interacts directly with the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage).
The chain permits a great chronometric precision by assuring the constant force applied to the escapement. The conical shape’s slope is calculated to offer the same traction from the mainspring barrel as it is depleted.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L is available in an 18-carat white gold case and black ceramic lugs, or in anthracite ceramised titanium & sandblasted 18-carat white gold case. Both variants are presented below.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L.1 “Near Side of the Moon”
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L.1 “Near Side of the Moon” is the “lightest” variant from the two. The white gold case is complemented by side elements and crown in 18-carat polished white gold. The rhodium-plated sandblasted brass dial is adorned with blued gold and steel elements.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L.1 “Near Side of the Moon” Technical Specification
REF. FB 1L.1 – 10 PIECE WHITE GOLD NUMBERED AND LIMITED EDITION
CASE
- Octagonal 18- carat white gold case with two transparent sapphire portholes and black ceramic lug elements
- Total diameter: 44 mm
- Thickness: 13.95 mm
- Water resistance: 30 metres
- Crown diameter: 9 mm
- Numbered edition: 01/10 to 10/10
- Dynamometric crown ( uncoupling system) in 18- carat white gold with black ceramic medallion
- Knurled 18-carat white gold L/H (Moon/Time) selector, titanium mechanism, on the side of the case middle between 4 and 5 o’clock
- Screw-down case-back in 18-carat white gold fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
- Domed and arched sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
DIAL
- Moon plate (dial) in rhodium-plated sandblasted brass
- Hours and minutes on a rhodium-plated brass counter at 12 o’clock, circular satin-brushed finish and matt in the centre
- Toothed feeler- spindle with steel spring at 9 o’clock
- Lunar cycles and age of the moon cartouche in satin-brushed rhodium-plated brass with black – varnished engraved scale
- “Near side of the Moon” half- globe in engraved, rhodium-plated brass between 4 and 5 o’clock
- Flat inner bezel ring with seconds around the dial rim in rhodium-plated brass with black – varnished engraved scale
- “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE” inscription
HANDS
- 18- carat blued gold dagger-shaped facetted cut-out hours and minutes hands
- 18- carat blued gold arrow-shaped power-reserve hand (on the back of the movement)
- Blued bronze central seconds hands
- Blued steel lunar-cycle hand and fixed moon-phase index (4 o’clock)
STRAP AND CLASP
- Hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
- 18- carat white gold double-blade length- adjustable folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request
FUNCTIONS
- Hours, minutes, seconds,
- Age and phases of the moon,
- Power reserve on the back of the movement
MOVEMENT
- Mechanical manual winding: Calibre FB- T.FC.L
- Diameter: 37.30 mm
- Thickness: 9.38 mm
- Lines: 16 ½
- Jewels: 55
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power reserve: 53 hours
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
- Tourbillon with fusee- and- chain (constant-force) transmission
- Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
- Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
- Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)
- Cam and feeler- spindle serving to display the age of the moon by means of a hand (PATENT PENDING)
- Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
- Balance spring with handcrafted steel Phillips terminal curve
- Swiss lever escapement
- Three rhodium-plated nickel silver half-bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
- Power-reserve indications on the back of the movement, black – varnished and engraved with “0 to 1” and “Rés” inscriptions
- Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards
- Components: 1,240 (including the chain)
- Chain: 790 components
- Length of the chain: 285 mm
- Bridges: 18
- Pillars: 6
TOURBILLON
- Rotation: 1 /minute
- Components: 67
- Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
- Tourbillon carriage assembled with 3 polished titanium pillars
- Tourbillon carriage poised by 2 inertia blocks in 18- carat gold
- Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm in copper-beryllium
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L.4 “Far Side of the Moon”
The second variant for the FB 1L case is manufactured using anthracite ceramised titanium & 18- carat sandblasted white gold. The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L.4’s dial is assembled in black PVD- coated sandblasted brass with gold, rhodium-plated gold and polished steel decorations.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L.4 “Far Side of the Moon” Technical Specifications
REF. FB 1L.4 – 10 PIECE ANTHRACITE CERAMISED TITANIUM NUMBERED AND LIMITED EDITION
CASE
- Octagonal case in anthracite ceramised titanium & 18- carat sandblasted white gold featuring two transparent sapphire portholes
- Total diameter: 44 mm
- Thickness: 13.95 mm
- Water resistance: 30 metres
- Crown diameter: 9 mm
- Numbered edition: 01/10 to 10/10
- Dynamometric crown ( uncoupling system) in 18- carat sandblasted white gold
- Knurled anthracite ceramised titanium L/H (Moon/Time) selector, on the side of the case middle between 4 and 5 o’clock
- Screw-down case-back in 18- carat white gold fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
- Domed and arched sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
DIAL
- Moon plate (dial) in black PVD- coated sandblasted brass
- Hours and minutes in black PVD- coated brass counter at 12 o’clock, circular satin-brushed finish and matt in the centre
- Toothed feeler-spindle with steel spring at 9 o’clock
- Lunar cycles and age of the moon cartouche in satin-brushed black PVD-treated brass with grey – varnished engraved scale
- “Far side of the Moon” half-globe in engraved and rhodium-plated brass between 4 and 5 o’clock
- Flat inner bezel ring bearing the seconds around the dial rim, in black PVD-treated brass with grey – varnished engraved scale
- “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE” inscription
HANDS
- 18- carat white gold dagger-shaped facetted cut-out hours and minutes hands
- Rhodium-plated 18- carat gold arrow- shaped power-reserve hand (on the back of the movement)
- Rhodium-plated bronze central seconds hands
- Polished steel lunar- cycle hand and fixed moon-phase index (4 o’clock)
STRAP AND CLASP
- Hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
- Titanium double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request
FUNCTIONS
- Hours, minutes, seconds,
- Age and phases of the moon,
- Power reserve on the back of the movement
MOVEMENT
- Mechanical manual winding: Calibre FB- T.FC.L
- Diameter: 37.30 mm
- Thickness: 9.38 mm
- Lines: 16 ½
- Jewels: 55
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power reserve: 53 hours
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
- Tourbillon with fusee- and- chain (constant-force) transmission
- Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
- Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
- Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)
- Cam and feeler- spindle serving to display the age of the moon by means of a hand (PATENT PENDING)
- Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
- Balance spring with handcrafted steel Phillips terminal curve
- Swiss lever escapement
- Three black rhodium-plated nickel silver half-bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
- Power-reserve indications on the back of the movement, black – varnished and engraved with “0 to 1” and “Rés” inscriptions
- Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards
- Components: 1,240 (including the chain)
- Chain: 790 components
- Length of the chain: 285 mm
- Bridges: 18
- Pillars: 6
TOURBILLON
- Rotation: 1 /minute
- Components: 67
- Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
- Tourbillon carriage assembled with 3 polished titanium pillars
- Tourbillon carriage poised by 2 inertia blocks in 18- carat gold
- Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm in copper-beryllium
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L Gallery
