An unmistakable signature at 12 o’clock and a flying tourbillon at 6 would be enough to make the Charles Girardier 1809 Dark Grey 37 mm an exciting proposition. The independent brand takes a few steps further, venturing into artisans’ territories to bring Paillonné enamel and exquisite setting to the watch face. Packed into a small precious case Charles Girardier Tourbillon «Signature Mystérieuse»®️ Fleur de sel 1809 Dark Grey 37 mm is here to amaze.
While the Charles Girardier Tourbillon «Signature Mystérieuse»®️ Fleur de sel 1809 Dark Grey 37 mm is designated as a ladies’ watch, I see no reason why a stones’ passionate gentleman would not wear it. I myself am guilty of enjoying a sparkling piece from time to time, and when the one in discussion comes with such an artisanal presentation of the dial, I am sold…
A beautiful case
The 1809 Dark Grey comes in a superb multipart case: a convex caseband terminated with voluptuous arched lugs, a rose gold bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (.9 ct) and a caseback fixed with four gold screws.
Another sparkling element is present on the crown: flat onion-shaped with a fluted finish bearing a lovely diamond cabochon. Enjoying all these elements brings to mind the word “classic”. It is a piece shaped and finished in a style rarely met today.
Paillonné enamel dial
The beauty of the case pales in comparison with the majesty of the dial. Manufactured in an artisanal way, the dial features an arabesque pattern engraved on a gold base on which a dark grey enamel is applied.
Pure silver-leaf flakes in the shape of the ‘Fleur de Sel’ (salt flowers) are geometrically spread all over the dial’s surface. The silver’s natural finish is forever frozen in the vitrified enamel that was fired at 800 degrees Celsius. This traditional process is incredibly hard to master and requires extra skills from the master enameler. The result brings an outstanding depth.
The secret signature is set into motion by gravity (with no connection to the mechanical movement). In the straight position, the 12 o’clock complication will reveal the CG signature. The “G” bears a meticulous diamond setting.
The flying tourbillon brings the watch into contemporain. The gold carriage is richly set with miniature stones. The setting is not only hard to execute but also brings extra mass to the cage, increasing the difficulty of regulating the 60 minutes tourbillon. The modern touch is given by the triangular internal bridge.
To complete the look, the Charles Girardier Tourbillon «Signature Mystérieuse»®️ Fleur de sel 1809 Dark Grey 37 mm comes with gold leafes shaped hands. The watch face is gorgeous, impressing connoisseur and uninitiated alike.
A beautiful movement with room for improvement
The 1809 Drak Grey is powered by the Calibre CG 1809/03. The 4 Hz movement is offering 46 hours of power reserved topped by a nicely implemented peripheral mass.
Calibre CG 1809/03 is decorated with garnetted bridges, horizontal satin-finished and polished tourbillon bridge, polished tourbillon cage set with diamonds, sunrayed peripheral mass, bevelled plate and bridges, and blued screws. While the decorations are well executed, I feel that it can be done more. While the signs of manual technics are clearly visible, a more time-consuming handwork can be added to take it from beautiful to extraordinary. But of course, one must be prepared to pay for extra decorations’ finesse.
Conclusions
Fitted with a woven strap with a traditional Jacquard loom, the watch offers a pleasant wear experience. The 37mm makes it as a comfortable companion (considering the weight of the gold case). The watch makes a strong stand on the wrist.
Charles Girardier Tourbillon «Signature Mystérieuse»®️ Fleur de sel 1809 Dark Grey 37 mm is an exceptional piece. It denotes a clear love for traditional techniques and an undoubted knowledge of watchmaking beauty and what that means. It is one of those rare pieces that bring a certain joy to the one knowing what to look for. And that dial…
Charles Girardier 1809 Dark Grey 37 mm Technical Specifications
Functions
- Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon,
- ‘Mysterious Signature’
Movement
- Calibre: CG 1809/03, mechanical with automatic winding by bidirectional peripheral mass, single ball bearing, one-minute flying tourbillon regulator
- Jewels: 32 rubies
- Diameter: 30.6 mm, 13 1/2”
- Thickness: 8.43 mm
- Power reserve: 46 hours
- Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph
- Components: 308
- Decoration: Garneted bridges, horizontal satin-finished and polished tourbillon bridge, polished tourbillon cage set with diamonds, sunrayed peripheral mass, bevelled plate and bridges, blued screws
Dial
- Grand feu enamel,
- rose gold base with engraved arabesque pattern,
- pure silver ‘Fleur de Sel’ pearls,
- dark grey enamel
- ‘Mysterious Signature’ in pink gold, set with diamonds, on arabesque pattern
- 18K rose gold leaf hands
Case
- Material: Rose gold 5N 18K
- Bezel: Rose gold, set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (.9 ct)
- Couronne: Rose gold, set with diamond cabochon
- Diameter: 37 mm
- Thickness: 11.8 mm
- Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective coating
- Case back: Sapphire crystal
- Water-resistance: 30 meters/100 feet
Strap
- Material: Pearl grey ribbon woven on a traditional Jacquard loom
- Fasteners: Interchangeable, Presto system
- Buckle: Folding clasp, 18K rose gold
Int’l retail price 78’800 CHF (excl. VAT) – Warranty 5 years, first service free of charge
