H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity was officially launched earlier this year, in March. I had the chance to see it and photograph it during Baselworld days. Diamonds Purity is a relatively small watch for modern times – 38mm. And the presence of the diamonds can be considered by some (together with the size) a sign of a lady’s watch. Moser makes no reference on the watch’s gender, so everybody can consider it as he or she wants.
Endeavour – Delightfully elegant
Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity is part of Moser’s Endeavour Collection. However, for this model, Moser developed a new case, following the Moser typical lines, of only 38mm, in steel. I find the size ideal for any kind of wrist, as long as you enjoy diamonds.
The case is sublime: dynamic without losing its elegance. The steel case combines shapes and finishes harmoniously.
The case’s details are intriguing. The lugs are inward bent for a wrist comfort but also smaller wear. The polished surface continues from lugs side to the case side. But the lines are delimiting a substracted mass. The rest of the case body bears a brushed finish. I can only think of two aspects: the mass removal makes the watch slightly lighter while keeping the most exposed part of the case better protected against scratches. Regardless of the initial reasons behind this selection of design, the Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity looks unexpectedly well. Moser departs from the typical uses of finishes and creates dynamic curves and serious case robustness in a way that transpires elegance (not sportiveness).
The crown is refined. It is adorned with the Moser “M” logo on a polished surrounding. The grip is excellent.
The steel bezel bears 60 brilliant-cut diamonds – another unusual combination. The diamond watches tend to usually have precious material. But in the Moser case, we notice that the brand tends to leave the traditional choices only in the mater of finishes’ quality.
Blue Lagoon Dial
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity has a signature sunray blue fumé dial. The simplicity, specific to many of the Moser timepieces, is also present. The leaf hands and four indexes are the only addition to the dial. And no, I did not omit the signature name printed on the dial. I just kept it for the decorative part. The signature highlights the dial’s degrade effect.
The dial has a special talent: playing with the light. Depending on amount, angle and colour temperature of the ambient light, the dial metamorphoses itself creating depths and colours.
A gorgeous and automatic calibre
As always, H. Moser & Cie does not disappoint when it comes to movement’s beauty. The Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity is powered by the automatic HMC 200. This calibre is designed and manufactured in-house. It offers a power reserve of three days, regulated by a 3Hz balance wheel with Straumann® hairspring with flat overcoil.
The movement’s architecture is compact with modular looking construction. The movement was launched in 2017 and it is used in the Centre Seconds line (also in the Pioneer Collection). The movement is lavishly decorated with Moser stripes, straight chamfering with polish, perlage. The winding is assured by the solid gold rotor weight engraved with the H. Moser hallmark.
To wear or not to wear?
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity is bliss on the wrist. It looked excellent on my wrist. I find the size perfect. The combination of size, dial colour and overall aspect optimal. I think I like the 38 mm version even more as its larger counterparts.
Who cares if it is a lady’s, man’s or whatever… In these times when gender is “problematic”, the Diamonds Purity is just a gorgeous watch that needs to be loved. And, most important, kept on the wrist. If you consider the size ideal, if you enjoy diamonds and need an automatic winding watch, in steel, then this is the perfect one for you.
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity Technical Specification
Reference 1200-1207, steel model, diamond-set bezel, Blue Lagoon dial, grey alligator leather strap
- Steel, bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.13 carats)
- Diameter: 38.0 mm, Height: 10.3 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through sapphire crystal case back
- Crown adorned with an “M”
- Blue Lagoon with sunburst pattern
- Leaf-shaped hands and applique indexes
- HMC 200 automatic calibre
- Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
- 27 jewels
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Solid gold oscillating weight engraved with the H. Moser hallmark
- Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
- Original Straumann® hairspring
- Finish with Moser stripes
- Hours and minutes
- Central seconds
- Hand-stitched grey alligator leather
- Steel pin buckle, engraved with the Moser logo