A profusion of light in prismatic colours. An eruption of coloured stones. Two years after the black and white shades of the RM 71-01, the brand new RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection brings colour to its apotheosis in the Richard Mille universe. A collection of ten models, each presented in a limited edition of 7 pieces, imbued with the quintessence of the ’70s.
Marked by the rise of club culture, as well as the birth of electronic and disco music, this decade saw an urban tribe of night owls emerge, creatures that donned their most beautiful plumage at nightfall. Cécile Guenat, Creative and Development Director at Richard Mille, revisited the unapologetic individualism of the disco era. She has captured the play of light, sound and colour in a synthesis of the various strata that together make up 1970s culture: from the haunting rhythm of the era’s hits, to the theatrical decor of Studio 54, to say nothing of the period’s fashion predilection for shiny lamé, rhinestones and sequins… Ten watches, each exhuberently flaunting their own strength and beauty.
A profusion of colour and a combination of stones never seen before at Richard Mille. Tsavorites, flamboyant spessartites, amethysts, diamonds, spinels, rubies and sapphires conjure a magnetic alchemy. An energy and talismanic spirit is linked to the ornamented dials: hematite is associated with strength, malachite with inner balance, lapis lazuli with vision, sugilite with protection, pink opal with healing… The new Talisman collection showcases the singular qualities of these pieces through highly symbolic choices of precious stones, set in geometric motifs over the entire case as well as the dial.
A supreme work of craftsmanship, for which more than six months were needed to validate the stones’ positioning to achieve the precise effect sought. ‘The intense glamour of the disco era resided in a multiplication of colours and textures,’ explained Cécile Guenat. ‘I had to find a way to make this idea tangible. Working with the stones themselves proved to be a considerable challenge. Because stones of very similar hues can end up looking completely different depending on their size and the type of setting.’
The ten models differ in the arrangement of their stones, their setting pattern, their engraving and the central decoration of the 0,90 mm thickness dial. They all, however, share the same CRMT1 calibre. Presented for the first time as part of the RM 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection in 2018, the CRMT1 is Richard Mille’s eighth in-house movement but its first automatic tourbillon calibre.
A feat requiring 1,000 hours of development, it is a true technical achievement, given that the tourbillon mechanism is integrated into the heart of a movement only 6.2 mm thick and weighing just 8 grams. Developed for daily wear, this calibre reaffirms Richard Mille’s unwavering commitment to the pursuit of extreme mechanical innovation.
Both artistic and mechanical know-how are perfectly reflected in this new collection, accompanied by a complete series of bracelets specially designed for each model. Bracelets – embossed with discreet vegetal motifs at 12 o’clock and geometric lines at 6 o’clock – each featuring two different shades, and whose metallic treatment on the patent leather enhances the visual impact of the stones.
Each component of the Richard Mille RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection thus radiates bewitching raw energy, carrying on the spirit of this era, whose lasting cultural legacy is universal.
Richard Mille RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman Collection Technical Specifications
A limited-edition collection comprising 7 sets of 10 models each.
IN-HOUSE CALIBRE CRMT1: Skeletonised automatic-winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and variable-geometry rotor.
Case dimensions: 52.20 x 34.40 x 12.50 mm
Circa 50 hours (±10%)
BASEPLATE AND BRIDGES MADE OF GRADE 5 TITANIUM
Microblasted grade 5 titanium with PVD treatment lends great rigidity to the baseplate and the bridges, as well as the precise surface flatness essential for perfect functioning of the gear train.
The skeletonised baseplate and bridges were subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
GEM-SET VARIABLE-GEOMETRY ROTOR
The RM 71-02 uses variable geometry to optimise the rotor’s winding motion.
– Heavy outside edge and heavy edge ring in 5N red gold
– Weight segment in heavy metal
– 18K white gold wings
– Ceramic ball bearings
– Automatic OneWay® winding system in ceramic with ball bearings
– Bidirectional winding system
This variable-geometry rotor has been incorporated within the in-house CRMT1 calibre, making it possible to set the rotor according to the owner’s activity level.
The setting is modified by adjusting the two moveable weights into the correct position and fixing them in place with spline screws. The inertia of the movement is increased when the two weights are closer together; the barrel then rewinds more quickly. If the weights are positioned at the extremities of the rotor, the inertia is decreased and the barrel winds more slowly.
FREE-SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
FAST-ROTATING BARREL (5 HOURS PER REVOLUTION INSTEAD OF 7.5 HOURS)
This type of barrel provides the following advantages:
– The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance,
– Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
GEAR TEETH PROFILE
The entire going train of the watch, the primary transmitter of power throughout the movement, utilises a special profile for the teeth of the wheels that ensures a 20° pressure angle. This system equalises any discrepancies that might arise among the centres of the various wheels, for instance due to thermal changes and normal use, and promotes the smooth transmission of torque to the balance wheel, thus supporting excellent chronometric results.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES AND CASE
This permits better control of the torque applied to screws during assembly.
These screws are unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
– Movement dimensions: 30.70 x 23.70 mm
– Thickness: 6.20 mm
– Jewels: 23
– Balance: CuBe, 4 arms and 4 setting screws, moment of inertia 7.5 mg•cm2, angle of lift 50°
– Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
– Balance spring: AK3
– Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
WHITE GOLD CASE The design and execution of the watch demonstrate a holistic approach to conception of the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to extremely rigorous specifications. The case, crafted in white gold, is composed of 75% gold, 4% silver and a high palladium content of 17% to provide white brilliance.
No less than 44 different stamping operations are required for the three main components of the case (bezel, caseband and caseback). The machine tooling process requires 2 days of adjustment for each component (bezel, caseband and caseback). The empty case involves over 255 tooling operations and more than 5 hours of glazing and polishing for the final phase. The complex shape of the case is obtained thanks to a 5-axis machine.
The 10 variations on the snow and grain settings bring together different textures, diameters and faceting, achieving freedom of expression all over the front bezel and caseband, whereas the caseback is engraved with matt bands.
The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 metres, ensured by 2 Nitrile O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 20 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
RED AND WHITE GOLD DIALS SET WITH GEMS Each dial, a mere 0.9 mm in thickness, is handset with ornamentals and coloured stones. This component is an
immense technical challenge because of the many different finishing operations required: sandblasting, polishing, setting… and all this in a very small area arranged on several levels. The dials draw on two distinct universes: one more plant-based and the other more urban.
In titanium with black galvanic treatment.
In sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides).
Thickness: 1.30 mm
In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides).
Thickness: 0.95 mm and 1.74 mm at the edges
– Hand-polished anglage
– Hand-polished stepped bevelling
– Microblasted milled section
– Microblasted sinks
– PVD treatment for the baseplate and bridges
– Satin-finished surfaces
– Hand-polished anglage
– Hand-polished sinks
– Burnished sections
– Lapped and polished ends
– Burnished pivots
– Post faces polished
– Diamond-polished sinks
– Circular decorations on the front surfaces
– Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance
STONES DETAILS FOR EACH MODEL
Pink sapphires, tsavorites, diamonds, peridots, rubies, hematite, pink opal
Number of stones: 941
Sapphires and yellow sapphires, diamonds, tsavorites, peridots, lapis lazuli, chrysolemon, malachite
Number of stones: 971
Sapphires, rubies, diamonds, lapis lazuli, white mother-of-pearl, turquoise
Number of stones: 915
Pink and yellow sapphires, diamonds, spessartites, rubies, pink opal, hematite
Number of stones: 823
Pink and yellow sapphires, black spinels, spessartites, diamonds, pink opal, onyx, hematite
Number of stones: 967
Sapphires, pink sapphires, diamonds, amethysts, tsavorites, rubies, chrysoprase, opal
Number of stones: 964
Sapphires, yellow and pink sapphires, diamonds, spessartites, rubies, turquoise, opal
Number of stones: 962
Sapphires, yellow sapphires, diamonds, spessartites, turquoise, lapis lazuli, hematite
Number of stones: 954
Tsavorites, peridots, purple sapphires, amethysts, diamonds, sugilite, chrysolemon, malachite
Number of stones: 817
Sapphires, pink sapphires, diamonds, pink mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, jasper, onyx, black spinels
Number of stones: 892