What a joyful piece it is – Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monobalancier. Although I am a more conservative mind and I am not a fan of bright-coloured watches, I was conquered by the summer vibe of it. But don’t get fooled by the sparkly appearance, this machine is a full Roger Dubuis goodies-packed (hyper) beast.
The art of skeletonisation finds new hights at Roger Dubuis. The ultra-technical Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monobalancier is something that, most probable, even Wassily Kandinsky would love and wear… The spectacularity is hard to match; its chromatic luminescence requires attention. All combined with an obsession for performance.
Review: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monobalancier
The watch was launched in February, and I finally have it in my hands during the Watches & Wonders. It is an extraordinary encounter – the radiant open mechanics combined with bright colours make a bold statement.
EON gold for aeons of durability
This joyful piece has a 42 mm diameter case manufactured from EON gold. This alloy consists of 75% pure gold (so 18K gold) and 25% of other material in a mix intended to improve the overall properties of gold: more scratch resistant and more resilient to extreme conditions. The case is decorated with a satin brush. The right side features a complex-shaped crown with a negative engraved logo and supple crown protection. The Excalibur case is presented with the specific three lugs design, and although it requires bespoke straps, it uses normal spring bars. The trio detail makes the case easier to spot. The lateral lugs received a nice polish on the chamfered edge.
The bezel is where the spectacle of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monobalancier starts. On the raised and polished EON gold bezel, twelve spinel stones graded from red to blue and coated with Super-LumiNova™, each piece shining in full colour. Regardless of daylight, UV light or no light, the watch radiates bright colours that highlight not only the bezel but also the movement.
More stones, more light
The same colour shades can also be found on the inner bezel making the low light show even more spectacular. To achieve the exact shades, uniformity, and luminescence desired, each spinel has been synthetically grown. A challenging technique that ensures colour and light blend perfectly to attain the most flawless results. The complex-shaped spinels were used to highlight the radiant skeletonised movement. A clear sapphire marks the central starting point of the energy source, respective to the barrel. It also hides the central barrel stem – a smart and beautiful way to integrate art into tech.
A circular spinel delimits the gorgeous rotor weight. The micro-rotor has an interesting shape but is also a smart concept to minimise vibrations and increase the power reserve – in this case, 72 hours on a full barrel.
The dial/movement construction implies pink gold chamfered edge and three-dimensional spinel. Hour indexes are placed between the inner bezel spinel stones, detail followed on the external bezel with indentations. To display the time, Roger Dubuis opted for skeletonised triple surfaces pink gold hands with the tip treated with black luminescent, also found on the hour indexes. The shine of the black luminescent is pale in comparison with the bright spinel stones. The UV light view is rather exceptional.
Even with the complex geometric shapes but in a similar style, the legibility of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monobalancier is surprisingly good. I had no difficulty spotting the hands and reading the time.
Learning how a watch works with high-tech Calibre RD720SQ
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monobalancier is powered by the technical calibre RD720SQ. The skeletonised movements are not only a showcase of how mechanics work but also for the finishing implied. The beauty found on the dial side can be observed on the back as well, even with spinel stones, although just two pieces. The 4Hz movement uses improved geartrain toothing and escapement. Diamond-coated silicon pallet stones and a new lube plus double inertia of the balance wheel (in comparison with the older design) contribute to the efficiency of the energy transmission, minimising losses and achieving the impressive power reserve.
Calibre RD720SQ bears the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures of fine watchmaking. The baseplate features a diagonal brush with bevelled and polished edges. Another fantastic good looking finish is the NAC coating that gives the contrasting dark grey look.
Perfect summer piece
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monobalancier is a beautiful watch: an interesting, colourfully piece of art with a powerful mechanical construction. The synthetically grown sapphire Spin-Stone™ features a world premiere stone-cut that is patent-pending. The visual complexity is appealing. For the moment, this watch is my favourite summer piece.
Good taste and superb construction make it a good choice as a sporty summer piece. On the wrist, the watch is comfortable, with good legibility. Roger Dubuis remain faithful to Hyper Horology™ with a creation destined to be seen and enjoyed to the max.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone™ Monobalancier Technical Specifications
Reference RDDBEX0950 – $154,500 Boutique Exclusive, Limited edition of 28 pieces
The skeleton calibres manufactured by Roger Dubuis in Geneva are the essence of the expressive singularity of the Excalibur collection. Complying with one of the most respected certifications of Haute Horlogerie, the Poinçon de Genève, the Excalibur watches are designed like contemporary works of art.
Every single component being finished by hand, the watches are symbols of passion. The work of hyper-skilled craftsmen is at the forefront of each watch with a direct view on the creative mechanics making these pieces more alive than ever.
Specific highlights
WORLD PREMIERE: the Excalibur Blacklight Monobalancier is the first timepiece to be set with curved and luminescent coloured synthetic gems SPINSTONE TM on the bezel and on the flange, displaying red to blue rainbow.
Blacklight microbeams turn tri-dimensional to fit our iconic star shape, and are enhanced by coloured SLN to glow by night and under UV light.
Movement
• RD720SQ
• MOVEMENT ENERGY: Automatic, self-winding
• COMPLICATION: Monobalancier
• CALIBER: A calibre with improved performances: increased power reserve up to 72 hours thanks to a new geartrain toothing and escapement optimization through its geometry. Improved durability thanks to new lube, and increased precision thanks to 4Hz frequency.
• FINISHING: Shot-blasted, circular-grained and trued-up main plate and bridges with NAC coating and pink gold
• FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes
• FREQUENCY: 4 Hz / 28’800 Vibrations per Hour
• POWER RESERVE: 72 Hours
• DIAMETER LINES: 16 3/4
• THICKNESS: 5.95 Millimeters
• NUMBER OF PIECES: 178
• NUMBER OF RUBIS: 32
Case
• EON gold* case
EON goldbezel set with curved synthetic sapphires SPIN-STONE TM in gradient hues with luminescence EON gold crown
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
EON gold* open case back with sapphire crystal
• DIAMETER: 42 Millimeters
• WATER RESISTANCE: 10 BAR (100m)
*EON GOLD TM is a specific 750/1000 5N gold alloy that is more resistant to tarnishing when exposed to extreme conditions.
Dial
• Pink gold plated double surface flange set with curved synthetic spinels SPIN-STONE TM with gradient hues. Polished and pink gold plated hourmarkers filled with black SLN in the centre.
Hands
• Triple surface hands in pink gold 750/1000 with satin brushed finish on the tilted surfaces and shot-blasted finish on the flat grey surface, SLN tips.
Strap
• According to our non-exotic policy, the Excalibur collection is adorned with a premium calf leather strap, built-in volume to follow the design of the case and the movement.
The strap is interchangeable thanks to Quick Release System.
Buckle
• Pink gold cover with titanium blades, triple folding, interchangeable with Quick Release System – QRS
ABOUT ROGER DUBUIS
The rush of adrenalin, a pounding heart, the sure and certain knowledge that something is about to happen: ENTER THE FUTURE OF HYPER HOROLOGY™. Impertinent, excessive and slightly mad, this is Roger Dubuis. Solidly sustained by an integrated Manufacture, an innovative spirit, and a flagrant disregard for convention, this is what Roger Dubuis is all about! Laugh, scream, roar, and above all, create… for an exclusive tribe that believes in the philosophy of living larger than life at every turn. Inspired by other cutting-edge industries and out-of-the-box designs to prove, time and time again, that Roger Dubuis is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology™.