Perrelet undergoes a profound renovation aimed at enhancing the quality and reliability of its timepieces – Perrelet calibre P-331-MH
Swiss watch manufacture Perrelet is renowned for its patented Double Rotor and Turbine technology, two inventions that single out its timepieces in the vast watchmaking landscape. For some time now, the Maison has limited communication regarding its behind-the-scene activities.
During this period, the Maison has been busy restructuring the brand with a marked emphasis on Research & Development with the aim of consolidating the excellent quality and reliability of its watches. While the brand remained silent on the restructuring front, there has been no shortage of press releases regarding new products.
The first sign of renewal at Perrelet was announced at the end of 2019, coinciding with the tenth anniversary of the Turbine family. To celebrate the occasion, Perrelet unveiled the TURBINE EVO collection. With an updated design and a brand-new metal bracelet, the most exciting novelty was the incorporation of the brand’s first-ever COSC chronometer-certified automatic movement.
This milestone marked the beginning of a new era for Perrelet. It offered irrefutable proof of the brand’s desire to pursue the path of innovation set out by master watchmaker Abraham Louis Perrelet when he founded the brand in 1777. As the precursor of the self-winding movement, automatic movements are an integral part of the brand’s DNA.
Thanks to the hands-on approach of Miguel Rodriguez, the owner and the president of the brand, Perrelet is ready to face a new challenge in the 21st century. His vision is to equip Perrelet’s distinctive timepieces with new-generation automatic calibres that meet the exceptional quality and high mechanical performance required by Swiss Haute Horlogerie standards.
As Miguel Rodriguez points out: “We have the advantage of owning several movements and components production sites combined with a prestigious heritage that sets us apart as one of the leading independent watchmakers in Switzerland. All this represents enormous added value for Perrelet, which relies on SOPROD for the development – in complete autonomy – of its exclusive calibres with their outstanding functionality, resilience and performance.”
The Group is comprised of six companies which thanks to their watchmaking know-how are entirely self-sufficient in the production of all the components of a movement, even the key components such as pallets and balances, as well as escapements and balance springs. The balance springs are manufactured by MSE (Manufacture de Spiraux et d’Échappements) based in Muriaux, in the Franches-Montagnes.
It has taken both time and considerable investment, but perseverance has paid off with the new automatic calibre P-331-MH, 100% produced in the Jura Valley, that drives the brand’s flagship collections today.
Recently conceived, the new-generation calibre P-331-MH benefits from substantial modifications compared to its predecessor. The teeth of the escape wheel have an improved surface finish and the pallet is fitted with superior quality rubies for higher performance and to guarantee an impeccable degree of reliability. Furthermore, the new lubricating system of the reversers allows for the optimum performance of the bi-directional winding system. The balance-wheel is also fitted with a double-cone Incabloc® shock absorber that increases protection against impact.
The combination of these mechanical upgrades has permitted calibre P-331-MH to obtain the Chronofiable® certification issued by the Laboratoire Dubois of La Chaux-de-Fonds. This certification assesses the operational reliability of a product using accelerated cycles of ageing that best reproduce real-life conditions of the wearer. The movement has also been subjected to traction tests on the crown stem, on its level of resilience to accidental shocks (free-fall test at violent impact of up to 5000G), as well as exposure to thermal cycles at significant temperature’s variations and magnetic fields, to name but a few. Furthermore, the watches have successfully passed the usual water-resistance tests.
Having passed these tests with flying colours, the movement also boats the prestigious COSC-chronometer certification.
By combining a stylistic renovation with constant mechanical innovation, Perrelet strives to achieve the perfect criteria for the manufacture of unique, exclusive timepieces that are destined to satisfy the demands of true connoisseurs. Perrelet’s news does not stop here, the Manufacture will be introducing further interesting innovations throughout 2021.
Avantgarde mechanics and vibrant colours distinguish the new “Turbine Pilot” models that join Perrelet’s famed aviation-inspired collection
Perrelet, the prestigious Swiss watchmaking house whose roots date back to 1777, is renowned for its unique representation of the automatic movement thanks to its patented Double Rotor and Turbine technology. Once again, Perrelet surprises watch enthusiasts with new interpretations of its “Turbine Pilot”, a collection inspired by the world of aviation.
First launched in 2014, the “Turbine Pilot” line was the result of combining cutting-edge technology with artisanal know-how. By combining high-performance mechanics with features taken from the world of aviation, Perrelet’s qualified watchmakers have created a collection of aviator watches that exude a bold, unmistakable style.
All these distinguishing features are manifest in the four latest “Turbine Pilot” models, a collection that is constantly evolving to reflect the latest trends.
Perrelet has always displayed a mastery of colour in its Turbine Technology timepieces. Three of the new “Turbine Pilot” protagonists feature bright, vivid colours like electric blue, red and yellow. A fourth version dons a camouflage rubber strap decorated with the classic mottled greens, browns and beige tones of this specific colouration pattern used for concealment.
To undertake its mission as a pilot’s watch, “Turbine Pilot” combines the turbine to a circular slide rule. Aviation slide rules are analogue calculation tools and a vital support instrument for pilots before and during flight. Equipped with a series of concentric discs with different graduated scales, aviation slide rules perform various conversions of measures with great speed. Obviously, computers can perform all these operations, but having a slide rule on a watch engages the mind and invites us to interact with our wristwatch.
The generous case size of 48mm and the characteristic fluting on the case middle are hallmark Turbine family features. Crafted in stainless steel with a black PVD coating, the case is water-resistant to depths of 5o metres and frames a complex, three-dimensional dial with its hypnotic turbine and blades which spin at the slightest movement of the wrist.
As soon as the 12 black anodised aluminium blades are set in motion, the spectacle begins offering incredible optical effects and flashes of colour. As the blades complete their rotations, a second dial placed below the turbine and decorated with electric blue, red, yellow or beige stripes – depending on the model – materialises.
To ensure optimal legibility in all light conditions, the indices and Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, which are applied on sapphire crystal disc above the turbine, are luminescent, as are the hands. On the electric blue and camouflage rubber strap models, for example, the hour hand is picked out in the same colour as the stripes below the blades. The peripheral slide rule scales on the flange and the tip of the central seconds hand on all four models also match the colour of the stripes. The bidirectional rotating bezel is activated by the crown at 3 o’clock, while the time is adjusted via the integrated crown at 9 o’clock.
The beating heart of this compendium of innovative technology and contemporary design is Perrelet’s manufacture P-331-MH automatic calibre. Produced entirely in-house, the movement is chronometer-certified by COSC and offers 42 hours of autonomy. The transparent case back allows a view of the refined finishes and the open-worked rhodium-plated oscillating weight personalised with the logo of the House.
To complete the package, the new “Turbine Pilot” models come with a bi-material strap (Rubber/Leather) with alligator pattern and deployant buckle with black PVD customised with the Perrelet logo. A fourth model with a rubber strap with camo pattern and black PVD pin buckle offers a more relaxed look.
Perrelet Turbine Pilot Technical Specifications
- Ref. A1095/2 (electric blue) / Ref. A1095/3 (red)
- Ref. A1095/4 (yellow) / Ref. A1095/5 (camouflage strap)
- Self-winding movement, Perrelet in-house mechanical calibre P-331-MH, chronometer-certified by COSC
- Turbine technology
- 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
- Number of rubies: 25
- Power reserve: 42 hours
- Open-worked and rhodium-plated oscillating weight with Perrelet logo
- Hours, minutes and seconds
- Bi-directional rotating ring with circular slide rule as used in aviation
- Round, black PVD stainless steel, fluted case band
- Diameter: 48 mm
- Thickness: 13.48 mm
- Bi-directional rotating ring activated by the crown at 3 o’clock
- Integrated crown at 9 o’clock for time setting
- Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment on dial side
- See-through case back
- Waterproof to 5 ATM
- 12 black anodised aluminium turbine blades with five tungsten counterweights on the back (for all versions)
- Black under-dial with electric blue stripes
- Applied electric blue Arabic numerals 3-6-9-12 and indexes on the inside sapphire glass
- Minute disc with the first 15 minutes highlighted in electric blue
- Central luminescent electric blue hour and minute hands
- Central seconds hand with electric blue tip
Dial Ref. A1095/3 (red) / A1095/4 (yellow)
- Black under-dial with red or yellow stripes
- Applied white Arabic numerals 3-6-9-12 and indexes on the inside sapphire glass
- Minute disc with the first 15 minutes highlighted in red or yellow
- Central luminescent white hour and minute hands
- Central seconds hand with red or yellow tip
Dial Ref. A1095/5:
- Black under-dial with beige stripes
- Applied white Arabic numerals 3-6-9-12 and indexes with beige edges on the inside sapphire glass
- Minute disc with the first 15 minutes highlighted in beige
- Central luminescent white/beige hour and minute hands
- Central seconds hand with white tip
- Bi-material rubber- black leather strap with alligator pattern and black PVD stainless steel folding clasp customised with the Perrelet logo for the versions with electric blue, red and yellow dial’s details.
- Rubber strap with camo pattern equipped with a black PVD stainless steel pin buckle for the version with beige dial’s details.
Swiss watch manufacture Perrelet is renowned for the original dials of its timepieces animated by its exclusive “Double Rotor” technology. Patented in 1995, the double rotor quickly positioned itself as a distinctive brand code. In 2009, Perrelet launched the iconic “Turbine” model and, ever since then, its hypnotic spectacle continues to amaze in all its multiple manifestations.
The famous “Turbine” collection celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2019. To commemorate this important landmark, Perrelet released the “TURBINE EVO” with a completely overhauled design and a new in-house movement for the hours, minutes and central seconds.
Perrelet celebrates the first decade of its innovative Turbine technology and breathes life into a second generation of models decked out with mesmerizing turbines on board. The look is still sporty but its silhouette is more refined adding a touch of contemporary sophistication that is more in touch with today’s aesthetics.
The name “TURBINE EVO” perfectly captures the spirit of the new timepieces. “EVO” is taken from the word “evolution” and refers to the evolution of watch with its upgraded and enhanced performance adapted to the modern lifestyle of dynamic men. “TURBINE EVO” is housed in a new sporty-chic case with a newly designed automatic movement. For the first time in its ten-year history, all the movements which equip this collection are covered by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification, testifying high precision in timekeeping after having undergone a series of tests. Last but not least, another added value in comparison to the past: the new Turbine EVO comes with an integrated metal bracelet.
The stainless steel case of the “TURBINE EVO” – also available with a black PVD or a 4N rose gold PVD coating – measures 44mm in diameter and has a thickness of 13.82mm. Entirely revamped for a more refined aesthetic appeal, the case features new lugs, a flatter and smoother bezel and a fluted case band. Another element that has been completely redesigned is the more prominent crown (in the past, it was recessed in the side of the case) making winding and time-setting functions much simpler.
But there is more! Looking carefully at the case back, the ring surrounding the sapphire crystal echoes the same decorative grooves featured on the sides of the case. The convex grooves are lined up at exactly the same position as the concave grooves on the case. A small, yet refined detail that underlines the meticulous care Perrelet invests in every single detail.
The famous 12-blade dial, a distinctive design code of all Perrelet’s turbine models, is protected under a sapphire glass. The original 3D effect created by the blades gives the impression of diving into the heart of the dial. The propeller, picked out in black anodized aluminum with five tungsten counterweights, rotates in time to the motions of the wrist. As the blades spin, a lower sub-dial is revealed with vibrant shades of red, electric blue or gold, depending on the versions. All the hour markers and the hours and minutes hands are luminescent for optimal legibility in any light conditions. As a final touch of refinement, the central seconds hand is picked out in the same color as the blades of the sub-dial.
The new “TURBINE EVO” is powered by the new in-house automatic caliber P-331 with 42 hours of power reserve. The movement has been assembled from the case back, a feature that makes any future servicing or assistance much simpler and faster. The sapphire crystal case back provides a full view of the movement with its refined finishes and the new open-worked oscillating mass personalized with the logo of the Maison.
A combination of technicality, precision and audacious design, Perrelet’s new watch is conceived for everyday use and, for the first time, combines a comfortable, highly ergonomic 5-link bracelet in stainless steel.
The bracelet is available in steel with alternating polished and satin-brushed links, in steel with a black PVD treatment, and in steel with a 4N rose gold coating. Thanks to the new lugs, the metal bracelet is perfectly integrated into the case becoming one with the timepiece. The bracelet is fitted with a folding clasp decorated with the Perrelet logo.
“TURBINE EVO” is also available with a bi-material strap made of PU and calf leather with alligator pattern for a more distinctive look. The steel and PVD steel models come with a black strap; while the PVD rose gold comes with a brown strap. All versions are fitted with an elegant deployant buckle and engraved logo.
Perrelet Turbine Evo Technical Specifications
- Perrelet in-house calibre P-331, mechanical with automatic winding and certified COSC
- 28.800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
- Number of jewels: 25
- Power reserve (fully wound up): 42 hours
- Open-worked and rhodium-plated oscillating weight with Perrelet logo
- Hours, minutes and seconds
- Round, stainless steel, stainless steel with black or 4n gold PVD coating
- Diameter: 44 mm
- Thickness: 13, 82 mm
- New flat bezel
- New fluted case band
- New crown with Perrelet logo
- Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment
- Transparent sapphire glass case back
- Waterproof to 5 ATM
- Red, electric blue or golden dial, according to the different versions
- Turbine technology
- 12 anodized aluminium turbine blades with five tungsten counterweights below
- Central luminescent hour and minute hands
- Central seconds hand in red, electric blue or gold, according to the versions
- Stainless steel bracelet – Five rows with polished and brushed links
- Also available in stainless steel with black or 4N gold PVD coating matching different versions of case and with a black or brown bi-material strap made of PU and calf leather with alligator pattern and folding clasp with Perrelet logo.