Hublot made a nice presence at Watches & Wonders 2024: multiple collection updates, new movements and a lot of sapphire. The brand is, without a doubt, a master of colours and materials and sapphire is one of the strongest points. But it is not only a matter of beautiful, even if unusual designs, Hublot also packs innovation and technicity with its record-breaking movements. Today I want to present you three sapphire applications and a surprise: the Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire chronograph, the MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, the new collaboration Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire and the pure happiness and a first for Hublot – its first central flying tourbillon in the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch.
Render to Caesar the things that are Caesar’s
Hublot has mastered the art of crafting watches where the case and movement become one. Their innovative use of transparent, synthetic sapphire allows you to see the intricate mechanics at the heart of the watch. This special material is not only beautiful but also incredibly strong, ensuring your timepiece is well-protected. Hublot’s expertise in synthetic sapphire has led to a unique aesthetic in watchmaking, transforming each watch into a work of art.
The brand has brought to the market incredible creations in clear, blue, yellow and red sapphire. The palette extends with wristwatches in orange, pink or purple bringing forms and shapes in the realm of art. Indeed, the brand has multiple collaborations that push the boundaries of mechanical wristwatches deep into the artistic domain. Two of the watches presented today are part of this exquisite offering.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire
Hublot‘s history is intertwined with colourful sapphire, and the Big Bang Unico is a champion of that tradition. Now, they push boundaries with a stunning limited edition of only 100 pieces featuring a never-before-seen translucent light pink hue.
This watch breaks the mould of watchmaking. It embodies Hublot‘s spirit – bold and unexpected. It appeals to a diverse audience: men seeking a unique colour option, women who appreciate a larger, technical timepiece, and anyone who loves exclusivity and a glimpse into the inner workings of a watch.
Light floods the watch, revealing the intricate mechanics of the Unico calibre. From the column wheel and flyback chronograph to the tungsten oscillating weight and silicon escapement, this pink marvel retains everything the Big Bang is known for: technical prowess, robustness, and cutting-edge design.
The Hublot Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire is powered by the new Calibre 1280. The Unico Calibre 1280 is an upgrade to the previous 1242 movement, focusing on improved user experience and watchmaker efficiency.
Key improvements:
- Slimness: Reduced thickness from 8.05mm to 6.75mm to fit 42mm cases.
- Gentler winding: New mechanism eliminates noise, wear, and maintenance associated with traditional winding systems.
- Enhanced chronograph: Unique clutch design eliminates jump and quiver of the chronograph hand.
- Improved accuracy: Patented fine-tuning system simplifies adjustments and improves performance.
- Exceptional shock resistance: Protects timekeeping from high impacts.
Overall, the Hublot Unico Calibre 1280 offers a more user-friendly and robust chronograph experience for both watch wearers and watchmakers.
Hublot MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire
Hublot’s “Art of Fusion” philosophy combines traditional craftsmanship with innovative materials and technology in the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, a high-end watch distinguished by several advanced features and a unique aesthetic. The watch introduces a new water blue sapphire colour, developed through a custom chemical formula to ensure durability and scratch resistance while maintaining transparency and luminosity.
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire is crafted from polished water blue sapphire crystal, giving it a radiant and translucent appearance. Hublot‘s MP-11 has been the power behind some of the most daring aesthetic interpretations: ceramic, SAXEM, Magic Gold, and 3D carbon. But nothing reveals at its best this 336-hour powerhouse as the sapphire.
The case has a diameter of 45 mm and a thickness of 14.4 mm and is water-resistant up to 30 meters. This piece will catch any light regardless of the angle, reflect it and refract it with spectacular effects. Its complex movement will make it even more attractive for the curious eyes. The power reserve disc makes one revolution every two weeks, necessitating some patience from its wearer.
The Hublot MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire is powered by the HUB9011 Manufacture Manual Winding Movement boasting an impressive 14-day power reserve. This was possible due to the seven series-coupled barrels connected with a 90° transmission which uses a helical worm gear visible between 9 and 10 o’clock.
The watch includes a patented index-assembly system and a silicon escapement to protect against electromagnetic and thermal interference. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 A/h) and contains 270 components, including 39 jewels.
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire
Since 2016, Hublot has partnered with the renowned artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi, founder of Sang Bleu. His signature style, characterized by three-dimensional geometric shapes, has left a lasting impression on Hublot’s timepieces. This collaboration began with the Big Bang in 2016, continued with the Spirit of Big Bang in 2023, and it is presented this year in sapphire.
The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire is a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and artistic collaboration. Its use of the sapphire crystal, combined with the intricate designs of Sang Bleu, results in a timepiece that is both visually striking and technically advanced. Case and Bezel are crafted from polished sapphire crystal, enhancing the watch’s transparency and giving it a distinctive, futuristic look. The case measures 42 mm in diameter and 15.70 mm in thickness, offering water resistance up to 50 meters.
The dial is also made of sapphire crystal, showcasing the skeletonized movement beneath, and adorned with geometric designs by Maxime Plescia-Buchi, the founder of Sang Bleu. The design features intricate geometrical patterns, including hexagons, rhombuses, and triangles, which create a layered, three-dimensional appearance. This design extends from the dial to the case and bezel.
The Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire is powered by Hublot‘s HUB4700, a self-winding skeleton chronograph movement. The calibre operates at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 A/h) and comprises 278 components with 31 jewels offering a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Besides the chronograph function, the watch also displays a date at 4:30.
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch
The Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch is a unique and innovative timepiece created for the Only Watch charity auction, reflecting a blend of high watchmaking and artistic creativity. This watch represents a new collaboration with renowned Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, known for his colourful and vibrant artworks. The watch is inspired by his iconic smiling flower.
MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch is a truly unique collector’s item created specifically for the Only Watch charity auction, which supports research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy. It features a floral composition: the design includes 12 petals set with gemstones, representing the 12 luminescent indices and echoing the colours of the Only Watch 2024 edition. The petals are angled towards the centre of the movement, creating a layered effect.
The case is manufactured of polished sapphire crystal, featuring polished titanium screws. It has a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 13.4 mm, and it is water-resistant up to 30 meters. The case back is also made of polished sapphire crystal. The bezel is crafted from polished stainless steel and set with 444 coloured gemstones, adding the vibrant and artistic joyful touch of Takashi Murakami.
The dial features Hublot‘s first central tourbillon. It represents the fusion of Haute Horlogerie and Murakami’s artistic vision. The central positioning of the tourbillon required innovative engineering to accommodate the hour and minute hands around it. The dial secret stays in its symbolism: the central tourbillon symbolizes the heart of the watch and the heart of the person who acquires it, as well as the children benefiting from the research funded by Only Watch. The dial’s top crystal incorporates Takashi Murakami’s iconic smiling flower design, bringing a playful and artistic element to the watch.
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch is powered by the Caliber HUB9015, a manual winding with central flying tourbillon, a first and significant technical achievement for the Brand. The movement comprises 236 components and includes 25 jewels. It operates at 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers an impressive 150 hours (around six days) of power reserve.
Transparency in watchmaking – conclusions
Hublot is renowned for its innovative use of sapphire crystal in watchmaking, pushing the boundaries of traditional materials to create timepieces that are both visually stunning and technically advanced. Hublot has mastered the challenging process of creating coloured and transparent sapphire crystal cases. Sapphire crystal is known for its exceptional hardness (9 on the Mohs scale, second only to diamond), scratch resistance, and clarity. The production of sapphire crystal cases involves a complex and precise process of synthesizing corundum (aluminium oxide) at high temperatures and pressures, followed by extensive machining and polishing. This results in the transparent, durable cases that Hublot is famous for.
Hublot’s sapphire watches are a unique blend of technical prowess, aesthetic innovation, and exclusivity. They cater to watch lovers who appreciate intricate mechanics, bold design, and a statement piece.
