Grand Seiko tends to be relatively unknown to the general public. Except for a relatively low number of collectors and enthusiasts, this magnificent Japanese brand is mainly associated with affordable Seiko watches and not with exceptional craftsmanship. The brand from the land of the rising Sun is known to have an austere aura with straight lines, simple dials and good movements. But the Nippon manufacturer has a sensible soul, skilful artisans, and gorgeous products. I am not referring to the exquisite quality of all the wristwatches but to the artistic touch of some pieces. I am comparing a highly artisanal watch, the Masterpiece Collection Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition Ref. SBGZ009 and the highly technical Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001.
Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition Ref. SBGZ009
Most of us, when we hear about Grand Seiko, we think of harsh lines, Zaratsu polish and mostly simple dials. Although the Ref. SBGZ009 is not the first artisanal wristwatch from the Nippon company, it was a pleasant surprise to see this novelty at Watches and Wonders 2023.
Grand Seiko Ref. SBGZ009 stands out from the first look with its fully engraved case from the Shinshu Watch Studio. The inspiration comes from the expansive forest of white birch trees at the foot of the North Yatsugatake Mountains in the eastern part of Shinshu. The 38.5mm platinum case’s soft lines remind of the snow-covered forest, and it is a subtle presence on the wrist.
The frontal and lateral surfaces are decorated with hand engravings by the artisans of Shinshu Watch Studiolong. Previously, the watch was polished to create a distortion-free mirror surface through the Zaratsu method, but most of this decoration is lost to engraving, still making a fantastic contrast. Note the mirror-polished crown bearing the engraved GS logo on a curved surface.
The Shinshu white birch pattern
The dial of the Ref. SBGZ009 is a tone-on-tone silvery surface that features the Shinshu white birch pattern. The name and the logo are engraved on the top side of the dial. The Spring Drive is engraved on the lower side of the dial.
The time is displayed with diamond-cut dauphine hands and a temperature-tempered seconds hand. Instead of a bright blue, the seconds’ hand was hued to a greyish tone. As indexes, the dial features 14k white gold indexes manufactured with a diamond-cutting process (please note the reflection of the dial’s surface on the sides of the applied indexes). The minute/seconds indexes are carved into the dial.
This tour de force is powered by the beautiful Caliber 9R02, manufactured by Micro Artist Studio luxury watch atelier in Shiojiri.
Spring Drive Calibre 9R02
If many of the watches manufactured by Grand Seiko can be considered as very restrained and low-profile, the movements are a high horological feast. Without exception, all the brand’s calibres are executed to perfection. When Micro Artist Studio is involved, we can expect exceptionally executed finishes.
The top side of the visible movement is reserved for the power reserve indicator, and the bellflower-decorated barrel capable of providing 84 hours of power reserve. This impressive number was achieved using the Dual Spring system, in which two mainsprings are set parallel within the single barrel. The Torque Return System also assures the recovery of the customarily wasted energy present at the full barrel.
An 18k gold customisable plaque set on the lower bridge is engraved with the words “Micro Artist”, attesting to the exceptional craftsmanship. An attentive observer will notice the two bridges with fantastic polished edges and the superb acute angle for the simple pleasure of the collector. Note the rounded polished sinks, the double para-shock system and the blued screws.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001
The second piece for today is the sportive, ultra-technical Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001. Launched at the same salon as the Ref. SBGZ009, the new watch is the moment’s sportiest interpretation from the Japanese brand. The watch’s name, Tentagraph, comes from the TEN beats per second – Three day and Automatic chronoGRAPH. Please note some colour inconsistencies due to the difficult light conditions and picture manipulation to highlight details. Unfortunately, the watch was a prototype, and I could test the behaviour of the Dual Impulse Escapement Calibre 9SC5.
The 43.2mm diameter titanium case is covered by a black ceramic bezel with a box-shaped sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. We all should be familiar with titanium’s hardness, making it less susceptible to scratches. At the same time, decorating the case with mirror polish is an arduous process.
The new series Evolution 9 Collection comes with a mat case and bracelet highlighted by a mirror polish chamfered edge. The three-link bracelet is nicely integrated into the case design and looks homogenous.
The minus point is the crown protection – a bit too sharp for my taste. While testing the watch, I repeatedly scratched my nails and stung my fingertips. Nothing dangerous or dramatic but inconvenient. I fully appreciate the skill necessary to achieve the perfect finishes and angles, but I prefer a more soft approach.
A dial inspired by nature
The Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001 continues the lines of dials inspired by the nature surrounding the Grand Seiko studios. In this case, the pattern from the ridged contours of the nearby mountain is visible through the windows of Studio Shizukuishi. Named the Mt. Iwate pattern, it was first introduced in 2006, and it is associated with GS mechanical watchmaking.
The blue dial is nicely balanced between the Y configuration of the subdials (30-minute counter on the right, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and the running seconds on the left) and the large volumetric applied indexes. The indexes with well-defined edges also feature a complex shape, including a large canal filled with luminescent material.
The legibility is excellent. The white transfer printed numeral and indexes, and the large hands with generously applied luminescent are well visible. The inner bezel allows a precise reading for the chronograph’s central seconds hand. The ceramic bezel features a 400 km tachymetric scale with detailed indexes under the 200 km scale point. A date aperture at 4.5 o’clock reveals a white-on-blue date visible through a frame.
Nippon Haute Horlogerie
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001 is powered by the technically and visually superb Calibre 9SC5. The technical specs talk about the 5Hz dual impulse escapement with a free-sprung balance wheel (the DIE transfers energy to the free-sprung balance wheel indirectly through the pallet fork and directly from the escape wheel) and vertical clutch and a column wheel with a three-pointed hammer (when the reset pusher is pressed, the hands return to zero instantly and in perfect synchronization) chronograph system. The movement can deliver 72 hours (two barrels) of power reserve even with the chronograph complication running. After a discussion with the master watchmaker, I understood that the chronometric capabilities are affected at the end of the power reserve (the last running hour might not be as accurate).
Regarding the artistic side, the Calibre 9SC5 is a beauty: a superb rotor weight decorated with the engraved name of the brand and name of the watch, as well as the GS lion logo on a frosted surface. The rotor also presents overall chamfered edges. The polished jewel sinks interrupt the nicely executed stripes on the bridges. The gilded engravings add an elegant note to an already detailed movement.
Conclusions
The Spring Drive Limited Edition Ref. SBGZ009 reveals the gentle and romantic side of the Grand Seiko artisans. The touch of nature in this novelties shows the respect and wonder for the surroundings that they bear in their hearts. The SBGZ009 is a gentleman’s dream: a perfect size, a subtle but sure presence on the wrist and an artistic but precise legibility.
On the other side, the Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001 reveals the technical capabilities of the distinguished Japanese brand. Well anchored in the idea of the tool watch, the Reference SLG001 is built for robustness and lightness. I am sad I could not test the Calibre 9SC5’s technical capabilities. Anyway, the view revealed by the open caseback is fantastic.
Two very different watches, but simultaneously, so close together through nature’s touch. The passion for the wild surroundings of GS Studios can be seen and experienced (even tactile by the Ref. SBGZ009) in both pieces. The movements are exceptional in both technical and visual perspectives. These two pieces can quickly form a complete collection, covering the black tie and sports attire. And they superbly complete each.
Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition Ref. SBGZ009
Caliber 9R02
Driving system: Manual-winding
Power reserve: 84 hours
Accuracy: ± 1 second per day (± 15 seconds per month)
Dual Spring Barrel and Torque Return System
Power reserve indicator
Number of jewels: 39
Specifications
Platinum 950 case
Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through screw case back
Water resistance: 3 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 38.5mm, Thickness: 9.8mm
Crocodile strap with three-fold clasp with push button release
Platinum 950 clasp (partly 18k white gold)
Recommended retail price in Europe: €80,000
Limited edition of 50
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001
Calibre 9SC5
Driving system: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)
Accuracy (mean daily rate): +5 to -3 seconds per day
Power reserve: 72 hours
Chronograph with 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12-hour counter
at 6 o’clock
Number of jewels: 60
Diameter: 33.0mm, Thickness: 8.0mm
Specifications
High-intensity titanium case and bracelet
Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through screw case back. Screw-down crown.
Water resistance: 10 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 43.2mm, Thickness: 15.3mm
Three-fold clasp with push button release
Recommended retail price in Europe: €14,300
