At GWD 2020, Ulysse Nardin continued the “X” factor of its ultra-tech line with the Blast. Launched in 6 variations, the Ulysse Nardin Blast comes with colourful combinations featuring titanium, ceramic, gold and diamonds. We have a look today at all of them.
Ulysse Nardin Blast is part of the Executive collection – a very high-tech line, part of the modern lineup of the brand. Part of the collection and featuring the same language is the Skeleton X and the re-enacting of a classic, the Executive Dual Time. Before going into more detail, let’s have a look at the hands-on and wrist-roll video.
Ulysse Nardin Blast
From the interior to exterior, the Blast features the latest materials and technologies in a daring appearance. Ulysse Nardine continues their efforts to create a signature collection not only by using the “shape in a shape” design but also by using materials and finishes less “traditional”. The Sparkling Blast received a gorgeous mosaic diamonds setting.
The blast case – a complex shape and a wide selection of materials
Ulysse Nardin Blast comes in a 45mm diameter case. The case is manufactured in titanium, PVD/DLC coated titanium, rose gold, ceramic and white gold paved. All materials are shaped in the distinctive shape of the collection with multiple angles and combination of finishes.
The White Blast features a combination of white ceramic and titanium. The choice of colours was inspired by Antarctica: shades of grey and a touch of blue.
Rose gold is used in combination with black DLC titanium for a powerful contrast. The gold components present an alternation of brushing and polishing that highlight, even more, the geometrical construction.
The black Ulysse Nardin Blast comes in a race-like theme: an overall black with red accents.
The blue version uses PVD titanium for the colour accents. The screwed plate visible above can be found on the right side of the case and it is present on all variations.
The Sparkling Blast is the most spectacular version. The diamond setting features a gorgeous mosaic. 211 diamonds in various shapes and sizes are used – a total of 13 Cts. The second version of the watch brings no dramatic change but just a touch of blue.
The “X” factor
The skeletonised dial is part of the Calibre UN-172 construction. The rectangular and X-shape have cosmetic but also constructive function. The reverse-type movement is fully visible on the dial side.
Each version has its own distinctive coloured details but all respect the same design. It is nice to observe that Ulysse Nardin did not just made several cases and then used the identical movement on all but particularised the finishes of the movement according to the watch’s colour scheme.
It is clear that certain components remained the same on all variants, but small details like balance wheel or the bridges received some extra details.
The white gold version received a diamond set also on the dial’s rectangular bridge and on the “X”. The hour markers were changed from SuperLuminova filled applied indexes to diamond-set indexes.
The second version of the white-gold diamond-set watch has blue accents. Note the silicon escapement, well visible due to the “light” theme.
It is interesting to see that the UN-172 is a slow beater – only 2.5Hz. The Ulysse Nardin Blast offers an impressive power reserve of 72 hours. Considering the micro-rotor, that amount of power reserve seems unnecessary. But this comes in handy when you have a constant watch rotation and you don’t need to set and wind the watch after a few days.
The back of the watch reveals the gear train that is also visible from the front. The decorating style is very modern but pleasant and in the style with the watch theme.
I would definitively not change the style with a more traditional decorating style. This choice of particularised finishes brings more individuality for each model and makes the lineup more interesting. It is not just a dial colour variation but a complete dedication to each theme.
More details with each of the version can be discovered in the extended gallery at the end of the article.
Colourful: technical and visual
I like the Ulysse Nardin Blast collection. It is a strong presence. Just as in Girard-Perregaux new technical watches, we can see the use of modern materials and technologies. The use of silicon escapements increase the stability and chronometric precision of tourbillon but it makes it also visual more spectacular.
I like the combination of colours and the way that watches feel on the wrist. I find the idea of “shape in shape”, the “X” factor very interesting and appealing. Even if the watches are on the large size, they look good on the wrist. I was not really disturbed by size, also due to the clever geometrical gimmick.
What I didn’t like was the crown protector. While I do agree with its presence and the look from above, at winding and setting I find myself hurting my fingers in the relatively sharp edges. I believe it will be more comfortable if the crown protection will receive more substance.
From the entire line up, my favourite would be the rose gold version. The combination of black and gold has a certain je ne sais quoi that makes it very interesting. I have to admit that I adore the diamond setting on the precious versions of the Blast. It looks simply amazing.
Ulysse Nardin Blast Technical Specifications and Price
- BLUE BLAST: T-1723-400/03
- BLACK BLAST: T-1723-400/BLACK
- WHITE BLAST: T-1723-400/00
- ROSE GOLD BLAST: T-1725-400/02
- SPARKLING BLAST WHITE: 1720-400BLE-3A/00
- SPARKLING BLAST BLUE: 1720-400BLE-3A/01
- Calibre UN-172
- Automatic tourbillon movement with micro-rotor
- Functions: Tourbillon, hours, minutes
- Skeleton, raised rectangular bridge
- Escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring in silicium
- Platinum micro-rotor at 12 o’clock
- 25 jewels, 18’000 V/H
- 2,5 Hz tourbillon
- Power reserve: approx. 72 hours
- Titanium with PVD/DLC Coating
- Rose Gold
- White gold polished and sandblasted / Diamonds: 211 diamonds, 13 Cts
- Diameter: 45 mm
- Case back: Sapphire crystal
- Water resistance: 50 m
- Structured or plain Rubber strap
- Alligator or Calfskin Strap
- Velvet or Denim Strap
- BLUE BLAST: T-1723-400/03 – 44’000 EUR
- BLACK BLAST: T-1723-400/BLACK – 46’000 EUR
- WHITE BLAST: T-1723-400/00 – 46’000 EUR
- ROSE GOLD BLAST: T-1725-400/02 – 54’000 EUR
- DIAMOND BLAST: 410’000 CHF