Launched in 2017, the Marine Torpilleur model embodies the history of Ulysse Nardin and pays homage to the prestigious Marine Chronometers created in the 19th century. This year, the House is expanding its Marine Torpilleur permanent collection with three new timepieces:
• The Marine Torpilleur Dual Time
• The Marine Torpilleur Moonphase in rose gold
• The Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon in white Grand Feu enamel
A history of watchmaking precision
Over the 19th and 20th centuries, Ulysse Nardin earned an exceptional reputation as a master of deck chronometers for naval forces around the world. The accuracy of these instruments was crucial for calculating longitude to determine the ship’s position at sea.
The House won awards for its excellence at the time and supplied its inventions to over 50 navies, geodesy institutes and astronomical observatories. Ulysse Nardin’s pocket chronometers were some of the most prized and coveted chronometers among navy officers and merchant navy captains. It was this nautical history that led Ulysse Nardin to design the iconic Marine Chronometer, an expression of its technical performance.
A new generation of chronometers was born in 2017: the Marine Torpilleur. Named after the torpedo boat – a small, rapid historical vessel so agile that it could easily evade the most imposing ships – this timepiece adopts the aesthetic codes of marine chronometers, including the fluted bezel, Roman numeral hour markers and the dual counter.
Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Dual Time
As business and leisure travel became more commonplace in the 20th century, watchmakers started to design timepieces that could simultaneously display two time zones: local time and home time.
In 1994, Ludwig Oechslin invented the GMT± functions for Ulysse Nardin, offering two push-pieces, “+” and “-”, used to instantly change the time zone of the hour hand, while the “reference time” aperture at 9 o’clock continually displays the home time. Then, in 2014, Ulysse Nardin introduced the UN-334, the first manufacture calibre fitted with the GMT± function, in the Dual Time Manufacture timepiece.
The new Marine Torpilleur Dual Time offers the technical advantages of the UN-334 manufacture calibre and the vintage DNA of the Marine Chronometer (fluted bezel, counter and Roman numeral hour-markers). The movement offers hour, minute and small seconds functions at 6 o’clock, and a large date in a double aperture at 2 o’clock, which can be adjusted in both directions. While the “home time” display operates continually over a 24-hour period in an aperture at 9 o’clock, the small hand can be moved forward or backward very easily to the local time using the “+” and “-” push-pieces at 8 o’clock and 10 o’clock. To top off the refined mechanics, the calendar function syncs automatically no matter the direction of the adjustment.
The Marine Torpilleur Dual Time 44 mm in a polished and satin-finished stainless steel case offers a power reserve of 48 hours, water resistance to 50 meters and a sunray satin-finished blue dial. The timepiece is fitted with a blue alligator-skin strap with a steel folding clasp and is also compatible with a fabric strap with a velcro fastening.
Expertise: Silicium technology
Like all of Ulysse Nardin’s manufacture calibres, the UN-334 incorporates silicium technology, with the escapement wheel, anchor and balance-spring all made from this metalloid, which offers nonmagnetic, elastic and durable properties to guarantee the utmost accuracy. This avant-garde material – which was first introduced to the watchmaking industry in the early 21st century thanks to Ulysse Nardin’s pioneering efforts – requires almost no lubrication and resists wear. As its production techniques are complicated to implement, they remain the preserve of just a handful of watch manufactures.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase
Astronomy is one of humankind’s most ancient fixations and has always aroused human curiosity. Our planet’s moon has always been of particular interest due to the direct impact it has on the oceans and its effects on our lives.
Ulysse Nardin began to design watches with moonphase displays in the late 19th century. The first Marine Torpilleur Moonphase models were presented in 2021 with a stainless steel case and a blue or white dial, as a limited edition of 300 pieces per model. Given its success, this year Ulysse Nardin is introducing the Marine Torpilleur Moonphase into its permanent collection, with a 42 mm rose gold case powered by the UN-119 self-winding calibre with a silicium balance-spring and a DiamonSil escapement wheel and anchor.
The dual counters display the power reserve at 12 o’clock and the small seconds and moon disc at 6 o’clock. The moon is transferred onto the counter, which adds elegance and sparkle when it shows itself against the starry blue PVD sky. This timepiece, which is water-resistant to 50 meters, is fitted with a dark blue alligator-skin strap with rose gold folding clasp.
Expertise: DiamonSil technology
After being one of the first watch houses to use silicium in the first Freak watch in 2001, here Ulysse Nardin also uses DiamonSil (patented in 2009), a plasma surface treatment process combining silicium and synthetic diamond. This DiamonSil plasma technology is one of the brand’s most iconic forms of knowhow.
The escapement wheel and silicium anchor of the Marine Torpilleur Moonphase are coated in this artificial diamond layer, which optimises its performance and improves its resistance to magnetism, friction and the millions of impacts it receives each year.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu
Ulysse Nardin’s tourbillon chronometers are a work of art that first originated in the late 19th century. The tourbillon formed part of a search for the greatest possible accuracy as its primary function is to compensate for deviations in the rate of the movement caused by Earth’s gravity in vertical positions. Since the 1980s, the House has perpetuated this heritage, continually developing new rotating carriages and adding to its long list of watchmaking achievements.
While last year the brand launched the Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon in black Grand Feu enamel as a limited edition of 175 pieces, it is now unveiling the Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon in white Grand Feu enamel as part of the permanent collection. With an open sapphire crystal case back, this polished and satin-finished steel model is completed by a fluted bezel. The white “Grand Feu” enamel dial designed by Donzé Cadrans proudly displays the power reserve at 12 o’clock. The UN-128 self-winding manufacture calibre powers the flying tourbillon with constant escapement, which is fitted with a flying silicium anchor, a system patented by Ulysse Nardin that won the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the 2015 annual GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) ceremony.
This 42 mm-diameter mechanical masterpiece, water-resistant to 50 meters, is finished off with a blue alligator-skin strap with a folding clasp, and is also compatible with a rubber strap or metal bracelet.
Expertise: Grand Feu enamel
Enamelling is a decorative technique mastered by a small circle of artisans and nowadays is only used on watches produced by the most prestigious watchmakers. Complexity, meticulous detail and realistic decoration are the main reasons why collectors have historically wanted to acquire timepieces with enamelled dials.
Ulysse Nardin is a leader in this field and a keeper of this artisanal know-how. It works in conjunction with its house Donzé Cadrans, which entirely produces this type of dial traditionally according to ancestral principles. The Donzé Cadrans artisans apply a variety of enamel techniques, in particular Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué and Grand Feu. The term Grand Feu (“big fire”) comes from melting the enamel powder in a furnace heated to between 760 and 900°C, a technique used for all categories of enamelling.
Enamel Grand Feu technique by Donzé Cadrans
Step 1
Creation of the three silver plates: the main plate, and the two small counters. These two additional counters will give relief to the dial.
Step 2
Wash and grind the enamel powder to reduce the granularity and obtain a homogeneous layer using glass or agate pestle.
Step 4
The enamel-coated plates will be placed in the oven and baked at over 800°C. The baking time and the thickness of the enamel will influence the final colour, wich will give the dial a unique artisanal final colour.
Step 5
Unification of the enamel surface using an abrasive file.
Step 6
Before the last passage in the oven, the thickness of the dial is checked using micrometre.
Step 7
Polishing the three enamel elements.
Step 8
The three enamel elements will have to be cut and/or adjusted for the final assembly.
Step 9
The three fitted elements are assembled and then welded.
Step 10
Using the transfer bracket and stencils, the inscriptions are then transcribed onto the surface of the dial.
Each dial takes about two days of work for an enameller.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Dual Time Technical Specifications
- Reference: 3343-320-3A/1A
- Movement: UN-334 self-winding manufacture movement
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, Dual Time, large date
- Silicium escapement wheel, anchor and balance-spring
- 321 components
- Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillating at 28,800 vib/h
- Case: Polished and satin-finished stainless steel
- Fluted bezel
- Case back: Open stainless steel case back with sapphire crystal
- Diameter: 44 mmDial: Blue sunray satin-finished
- Small seconds at 6 o’clock, Dual Time at 9 o’clock, large date at 2 o’clock
- Power reserve: 48 hours
- Water-resistance: 50 meters
- Strap: Blue alligator-skin strap
- Stainless steel folding clasp
- Compatible with fabric strap with velcro fastening
- Price: CHF 10,900 / EUR 10,400 / USD 11,500 / GBP 9,540
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Technical Specifications
- Reference: 1192-310-0A/1A
- Movement: UN-119 manufacture calibre, self-winding COSC movement
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, moonphase
- Silicium balance-spring
- DiamonSil escapement wheel and anchor
- 260 components
- Frequency 4 Hz / oscillating at 28,800 vib/h
- 5N rose gold oscillating weight
- Case: Polished and satin-finished rose gold
- Fluted rose gold bezel
- Case back: Open rose gold case back with sapphire crystal
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Dial: Varnished white dial
- Golden hands
- Dual counter with power reserve display at 12 o’clock, small seconds and moon disc at 6 o’clock
- The moon is transferred onto the counter, which adds elegance and sparkle when it shows itself against the starry blue PVD sky
- Strap: Blue alligator-skin strap
- Rose gold folding clasp
- Water-resistance: 50 meters
- Power reserve: 60 hours
- Price: CHF 21,400 / EUR 20,300 / USD 22,600 / GBP 18,770
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu Technical Specifications
- Reference: 1283-310-0AE/1A
- Movement: UN-128 Constant manufacture calibre, self-winding movement
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement
- Power reserve display
- Silicium escapement wheel, balance-spring & anchor
- 208 components
- 2.5 Hz / 18,000
- Case: Polished & satin-finished stainless steel case / fluted bezel
- Case back: Open stainless steel case back with sapphire crystal
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Dial: White Grand Feu enamel dial made by Donzé Cadrans
- Power reserve display at 12 o’clock
- Rhodium-plated hands
- Strap: Blue alligator-skin strap
- Steel folding clasp
- Compatible with rubber strap or metal bracelet
- Water-resistance: 50 meters
- Power reserve: 60 hours
- Price: CHF 37,500 / EUR 35,600 / USD 39,600 / GBP 32,900
Ulysse Nardin – Manufacture of Freedom
Ulysse Nardin is the Manufacture inspired by the Ocean, producing freaky timepieces for explorers in pursuit of freedom.
Founded by Mr Ulysse Nardin in 1846 the company owes its reputation to its links with the sea its onboard marine chronometers are among the most award-winning and reliable ever designed.
A pioneer in innovative technologies and the use of high-tech materials such as silicium, Ulysse Nardin is one of the few independent and integrated manufactures with the in-house expertise to produce its own high-precision components and movements.
To underscore its commitment to its favourite environment, Ulysse Nardin is active in supporting the preservation of the Ocean, focusing on two major areas encouraging upcycling to reduce marine plastic pollution and developing scientific knowledge concerning the preservation of the sharks, its emblem.
Today, in the Swiss towns of Le Locle and La Chaux de Fonds, Ulysse Nardin remains devoted to its quest for watchmaking perfection in four collections Marine, Diver, Blast and Freak.
As of 2022 Ulysse Nardin and sister Maison Girard-Perregaux have formed an independent collective of high-horology Manufactures