For Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023, Vacheron Constantin reveals several pieces in the Métiers d’Art Collection, a jewellery snow-setting Patrimony wristwatch and two models featuring a majestic green sunburst dial in the Traditionnelle Collection.
Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists: A creative odyssey in the company of 19th-century naturalists
- Vacheron Constantin is writing a new chapter in the Métiers d’Art collection with four Tribute to Explorer Naturalists ten-piece limited editions.
- An ode to exploration, craftsmanship and technicity, the series focuses on the scientific discoveries of the naturalists who travelled the world’s oceans aboard the English ship Beagle in the early 1830s.
- Four horological tableaux, at the crossroads of science and art, masterpieces of engraving and miniature enamel powered by the iconic manufacture Calibre 1120 AT/1 with satellite wandering hours.
From Cape Verde to the Cape of Good Hope, via Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists collection is a new ode to exploration and scientific discovery, echoing the insatiable spirit of adventure that François Constantin himself displayed in his day. Passionately cultivated by the artisans of the Manufacture, this philosophy endures through generations, embodying a wealth of stories and emotions.
Vacheron Constantin invites collectors to embark on the Beagle alongside the most illustrious 19th century naturalists. It comes after the 1994 Mercator model – in homage to geographer Geraldus Mercator , but alsothe Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers series revealed in 2021, and the Métiers d’Art Aérostiers series in 2018 celebrating the conquest of the skies. During their odyssey across the world’s oceans between 1831 and 1836, these scientific explorers richly documented their discoveries. Fabulous tropical plants with shiny foliage, colourful birds of paradise, butterflies in exotic colours, groves of flowering and fruit trees along with a fascinating array of wildlife were observed at every stop on this long voyage. These discoveries gave rise to countless scientific, botanical and zoological engravings and drawings – some of which inspired Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists collection – composing a delicately illustrated, refined and colourful account.
Vacheron Constantin tells the story of the journey through history offered by the Métiers d’Art collection, thanks to the combined talents of its artisans – engravers, enamellers, guilloché specialists and jewellers – that the Maison cultivates within its Manufacture, alternately mingling their skills to create dials that are like windows opening onto the world. Vacheron Constantin has opted to associate two crafts in making these new ten-piece limited editions. In addition to the high-precision dexterity of the master engraver who creates the curves and depth effects of the decoration with a touch accurate to the nearest tenth of a millimetre, the master enameller tames fire as well as pigments to compose miniature masterpieces with the tip of his brush. Four days’ work are needed to bring to life each of the scenes unveiled in the heart of a 41 mm white or pink gold case whose silhouette – distinguished by an extremely slim bezel and screw-topped lugs – is inspired by the watches produced by Vacheron Constantin in the 1980s and 90s.
Calibre 1120 AT/1
To give free rein to the skills of its enamellers and engravers, Vacheron Constantin has once again opted for in-house self-winding Calibre 1120 AT/1. A guarantee of elegance on the wrist, this 5.45 mm-thick movement is distinguished by its slenderness, giving the gold case a streamlined silhouette measuring just 11.68 mm thick.
Thanks to its original construction and unique time display, the technical aspects are replaced by aesthetics, inviting the wearer to take a visual journey through the dial as the hours tick by. Concealed beneath the upper part of the dial, the hours wheel is equipped with three arms, each bearing four Arabian numerals in turn directed by a cam whose shape is inspired by the Manufacture’s Maltese cross emblem. This ingenious and technical satellite module enables the wandering hours to sweep over the dial from top to bottom, along the fixed minutes track appearing over a 120° arc. In this way, the hours numerals travel across the dial adorned with artistic crafts, with their position indicating the minutes instead of a traditional hand.
The back of the movement is, as always, adorned with finishes paying homage to traditional High Watchmaking decorations, such as the Côtes de Genève guilloché pattern swept over by the 22K gold oscillating weight adorned with a compass rose.
Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists Cape Verde (January 1832)
At the heart of the 41 mm white gold 750/1000 case is a two-part tableau. On the upper part of the dial, engraving and enamelling combine in tracing the majestic silhouette of the Beagle. Viewed from its stern, the finely engraved gold ship with its billowing sails glides across a miniature-painted ocean. The lower part displaying the hours and minutes is graced with a naturalist scene in which bouquets of flowers burst forth and blossom in the shade of luxuriant foliage, reproduced by the enamelling artisan with infinite finesse and a captivating play on colours, while Calibre 1120 AT/1 reveals its secrets through a sapphire caseback aperture. This ten-piece limited edition is fitted with a blue Mississipiensis alligator strap secured by a white gold 750/1000 folding buckle.
Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists Straits of Magellan (1833/1834)
After several weeks at sea, the Beagle crossed the Strait of Magellan, discovered some 300 years earlier by the explorer whose name it bears. While the region was extremely remote, naturalists discovered abundant vegetation where palm leaves mingled with ferns, reproduced on the lower part of the dial. The colours have been carefully worked by the enamelling artisan over the course of several kiln firings to ensure the best possible match with the shade of pink gold from which the 41 mm case is sculpted. The upper part of the dial is graced with a fine white gold engraving depicting the Beagle sailing on blue-enamelled waves, while the sapphire crystal caseback reveals a continuation of the visual journey with the delicate finishing of Calibre 1120 AT/1. This ten-piece limited edition is paired with a blue Mississipiensis alligator strap secured by a pink gold folding buckle.
Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists Tierra del Fuego (1833-1834)
On Tierra del Fuego, the archipelago at the southernmost tip of the South American continent, the naturalists travelling aboard the Beagle discovered enchanting flora and fauna. Vacheron Constantin’s artisans drew inspiration from a number of period engravings to create a picture to be explored from every angle. Housed in a 41 mm white gold case, the upper dial features an engraving depicting a 3D butterfly and two birds standing out against a background adorned with miniature paintings. On the lower part of the dial, an ancient terrestrial map of Tierra del Fuego is reproduced in miniature enamel, along with a windrose as a nod to the world of travel. Visible through the transparent back, Calibre 1120 AT/1 beats time. This ten-piece limited edition is paired with a green Mississipiensis alligator strap secured by a white gold folding buckle.
Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists Cape of Good Hope (May 1836)
Depicted on its way back to Europe, the Beagle skirts the African coast from the Cape of Good Hope. This legendary passage has been used by navigators since the late 15th century and can be seen on the miniature enamel maritime scene presented on the lower part of the dial. A close look reveals every detail of the Beagle depicted in this extremely fine decoration. On the upper part of the dial, the combined talents of the engraver and enameller create a landscape resembling a Garden of Eden, just as the naturalists observed when they stopped off at the Cape of Good Hope. The delicate plumage of the birds perched amid the foliage is matched by the languid silhouette of an iguana. A naturalistic scene to be discovered at the heart of the 41 mm pink gold case. The show continues on the other side with the meticulous finishing of Calibre 1120 AT/1, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. This ten-piece limited edition is paired with a green Mississipiensis alligator strap secured by a pink gold folding buckle.
Interview with Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director
1/ Why choose these adventurers?
By definition, Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’art collection showcases rare, ancestral craftsmanship techniques in the service of watchmaking masterpieces whose creativity demonstrates openness to the world. It’s true that this open-mindedness is reflected in the brand’s penchant for history and travel, and often in the themes that unite them, with “Les Aérostiers” or “Les Grands Explorateurs” for example. This choice of 19th-century “adventurers” aboard the Beagle therefore seemed to us to bring together all the ingredients needed to create a magnificent watchmaking fresco, what’s more in a naturalistic context, another subject the collection knows how to delight in. Let’s not forget that while the name of the Beagle may not be well known, Charles Darwin’s 1839 book The Voyage of the Beagle is perhaps better known. It was thanks to this book that the naturalist became a household name, and today it finds a new echo on Vacheron Constantin watch dials.
2/ What are the challenges involved in building a dial for this collection?
The Métiers d’art collection is first and foremost about putting technology at the service of beauty. In other words, to use watch movements whose displays are arranged in such a way as to leave the dial free for maximum expression by the craftsmen. The Manufacture caliber 2460 G4/2 is one such movement, with hour, minute, day and date indications on discs, with apertures positioned around the periphery of the dial. The caliber 1120 AT/1 follows the same philosophy. But this extra-flat, 5.45mm-thick movement with trailing hours on an arched minute track requires a slot in the dial to allow rotation of the three hour satellites. The craftsmen in charge of the models in this new “ Tribute to Explorer Naturalists ” collection must therefore organize their compositions to take account of a break in the dial, which is therefore on two levels. This complicates the task, but in no way detracts from the splendor of these creations.
3/ Is a sequel planned, as with the great explorers?
On the face of it, I’d say that Charles Darwin and his companions won’t have any watchmaking descendants at Vacheron Constantin. Not all Métiers d’art collections have several chapters, as is the case with “Copernicus sphères célestes” or the “Élégance sartoriale” series. But who knows? Perhaps 19th-century naturalism is enough of a theme to give craftsmen reason to be more interested in the voyage of the Beagle and Darwin’s accounts of his discoveries and reflections, which led, twenty years later, to the theory of evolution. All in all, a rich and fascinating theme that makes for wonderful watchmaking stories.
Sum-up
Through the sensitive and delicate touch of its Master Artisans, Vacheron Constantin tells fascinating stories and invites aesthetic collectors on a new journey through time. Inspired by the scientific odyssey naturalists who boarded the English ship the Beagle in the early 1830s, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists collection opens a new window on the world. Available in four ten-piece limited editions in pink or white gold, each 41 mm in diameter, the collection harmoniously blends the talents of the master engraver and the master enameller to provide an illustrated account of the naturalists’ discoveries around the world. It is an epic journey through time, history and science, embarking collectors on a fantastic voyage from Cape Verde to the Cape of Good Hope, via the Strait of Magellan and Tierra del Fuego. Each timepiece is powered by the self-winding in-house Calibre 1120 AT/1 and paired with a Mississipiensis alligator strap.
Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Dragon
- Vacheron Constantin is celebrating the Year of the Dragon and its legend with two 25-piece limited editions, unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai.
- The Maison unites two of its crafts – engraving and enamelling – within an elegant 40 mm case in 950 platinum or 18K 5N pink gold.
- In-house Calibre 2460 G4 dedicates technology to serving artistic creativity, with a disc-type display enabling craftsmanship to take centre stage.
It all began with the sign of the snake in 2012. As it comes to the end of a 12-year cycle, the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Collection welcomes two 25-piece limited editions unveiled during Watches and Wonders Shanghai. A symbol of nobility, strength, good luck and success, the dragon unfurls its mystical aura while grasping a pearl, a symbol of knowledge and wisdom, on the dial of these two new creations in 950 platinum or 18K 5N pink gold, combining the beauty of the engraving and enamelling with the technical of Calibre 2460 G4.
In Chinese culture, the dragon is said to be endowed with incredible virtues. As the Year of the Rabbit draws to a close, the fabulous dragon follows, majestically occupying the dial of the two new Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Dragon limited editions unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai.
The embodiment of honour, nobility, success and good luck, this supernatural creature was also a powerful symbol of Chinese imperial power and is doubtless still the most popular zodiac sign in this age-old culture. Its sculpted snake-like silhouette now takes centre stage on this watch, a symbolic sight featuring countless details that stand out in relief against a delicately engraved and enamelled decoration. The resulting fantastical artwork epitomises a blend of strength and delicacy, born of the union of engraving and enamelling, two rare skills cultivated by Vacheron Constantin.
Engraving meets enamelling
The two new Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of Dragon limited editions combine the finesse of the master enameller with the delicacy of the master engraver. The artisan first sculpts the gold dial to create a dreamlike decor of air flows and clouds, inspired by traditional Chinese artistic motifs. The dragon stands out against this refined backdrop, also hand-engraved with an unparalleled sense of detail. It takes more than three days of work to bring this mystical figurine to life, its body adorned with some 300 scales. Synonymous with knowledge, wisdom and abundance, the similarly hand-engraved pearl adds a spiritual dimension to the scene.
Each 25-piece limited edition features a different dial colour, achieved through the expertise of the enamelling artisan. The 40 mm-diameter case in 950 platinum features a deep blue Grand Feu enamel dial matched with a blue Mississipiensis alligator leather strap. The likewise 40 mm pink gold version features a brown Grand Feu enamel dial of unalterable beauty, matched with a tone-on-tone Mississipiensis alligator leather strap.
A calibre that unleashes creativity
Within the Métiers d’Art collection, watchmaking technology is dedicated to the service of artistic creativity. Behind the scenes, Vacheron Constantin has opted for the in-house self-winding Calibre 2460 G4, which gives pride of place to the dial. The hands-free watch face provides a unique indication of the passage of time through four apertures opening onto the trailing hours and minutes, as well as the jumping day-date displays. Through the sapphire crystal caseback in 950 platinum or 18K 5N pink gold, Calibre 2460 G4 reveals the beauty of its finishing, starting with its 22K gold oscillating weight adorned with a motif inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem.
Interview with Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director
1/ After the tiger and the rabbit, Vacheron Constantin closes its cycle of the twelve signs of the Chinese zodiac with the dragon. A grand finale?
It’s true that we have given particular importance to the Chinese calendar in our Métiers d’Art collections, presenting all the signs of the zodiac over the last twelve years. One of the reasons for this is that Vacheron Constantin’s relationship with China is more than special and, above all, historical. Following the Treaty of Nanking in 1842, which put an end to the first Opium War, Vacheron Constantin, already a supplier of exceptional timepieces to court dignitaries, established its first commercial contacts in 1845, in a country we have never left since. This means that barely 90 years after its foundation, Vacheron Constantin was gaining a foothold in China, at a time when Swiss production of so-called Chinese watches was a real success, watches designed to withstand humidity, characterized by the richness of their engraved and enamelled decorations and which were sold in pairs. It is in Shanghai that we have a unique space of its kind with the “Maison 1775”, a historic building in the Zhangyuan district that offers a unique immersion in the world of Vacheron Constantin over four floors.
2/ Does this proximity to China explain this serie?
This serie has deep historical roots. But it is also in keeping with the broader perspective of the relationships forged by the company with its Chinese clientele. Vacheron Constantin has produced several series of watches specially dedicated to the Chinese market, including a ladies’ model in the Traditionnelle collection in a China Special Edition in 2019. Chinese decorative arts are also a theme we have explored extensively with Métiers d’art pieces such as Laque de Chine, Florilège – Limodoron Chinois and Fabuleux Ornements – Broderie Chinoise. Chinese connoisseurs of fine watchmaking are indeed very sensitive to the work of craftsmanship and appreciate rare talents. In this spirit, last year we presented three limited series Traditionnelle Tourbillon Phoenix and Dragon with beautifully sculpted gold appliques representing the two mythical animals on the dial and a delicately engraved case incorporating our extra-flat tourbillon, Calibre 2160. For Vacheron Constantin, this type of piece underlines the special links that unite our two cultures.
Sum-up
Presented at Watches and Wonders Shanghai, two 25-piece Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Dragon limited editions celebrate one of China’s most beloved astrological signs. Framed by an elegant 40 mm case in 950 platinum or 18K 5N pink gold, the art of engraving combines with enamelling skills to depict the dragon, a supernatural creature symbolising power, luck and nobility. This elegant work of art beats to the rhythm of self-winding Calibre 2460 G4, which powers a unique display of the hours, minutes, day and date through four apertures, giving Vacheron Constantin‘s Métiers d’Art craftspeople unlimited scope for expression.
Patrimony self-winding jewellery: A new jewellery signature
- Available for the first time in a jewellery version entirely set with diamonds, the timeless elegance of the Patrimony collection appears clothed in light.
- The dial is entirely paved with diamonds using the snow-setting technique.
- An interchangeable strap adds a versatile touch.
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the Patrimony self-winding jewellery watch reveals a new facet of its personality. Sparkling and dazzling, its slim 37 mm white gold silhouette is adorned with 769 round diamonds. The first jewellery watch in the Patrimony collection is dressed to the nines, while ensuring precision timing thanks to its self-winding Calibre 2460 SC/3.
We are familiar with its sense of sobriety and discretion. Now, for the first time, the Patrimony drapes itself in jewellery codes. Entirely set with diamonds, from its slender white gold case to its snow-set dial, it sparkles with every wrist movement. Luminous and radiant, the Patrimony self-winding pulls out all the stops, while remaining true to its origins. Inspired by the classic watches developed by Vacheron Constantin in the 1950s, it retains the harmonious proportions and pure lines that have characterised the collection since 2004. A timeless creation with a strong sense of showmanship, this jewellery watch’s precious finery is sure to catch the eye.
Timeless and eternal
Following in the footsteps of the self-winding Patrimony models unveiled in spring 2023 in a case with redesigned proportions and adorned with a subtly rounded crown, this new creation imbued with uncompromising refinement is distinguished by the finesse of its gem-setting. Light bounces off every facet of its elegant 37 mm case. The slender case middle is adorned with round diamonds and the lugs are also delicately gem-set, as too is the bezel forming a halo of light around the dial. In all, the Patrimony self-winding model is set with 769 diamonds, including a single rose-cut diamond resting delicately on the sensual curve of the crown.
To accentuate the dial’s glowing radiance, 420 round diamonds are set using the demanding snow-setting technique that involves a demanding technique that consists of selecting each diamond one by one, all with different diameters, to cover the metal of the dial as much as possible. The slightly domed dial of the Patrimony self-winding presents an additional challenge, requiring the gem-setter to exercise tremendous dexterity and patience to obtain a perfectly even surface and stunning brilliance. The result, which is unique to each timepiece, causes the precious metal to vanish beneath an exceptional sparkle that varies in step with light effects and wrist movements. A dazzling sight graced with slender white gold hour-markers swept over by dainty leaf-type hands, also in white gold.
Elegant from every angle, the Patrimony self-winding is secured to the wrist with a pearlescent blue alligator leather strap. Its versatile nature means it can be paired with a wide range of styles, outfits and colours thanks to the interchangeable strap.
Essential precision
At Vacheron Constantin, aesthetic elegance and technical refinement go hand in hand. In-house Calibre 2460 SC/3 confidently marks off time thanks to its key assets of precision and reliability. Endowed with a balance oscillating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of around 40 hours, this self-winding movement focuses on essentials with its hours, minutes and seconds hands. The movement’s finishing can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback, notably including a mainplate circular-grained on both sides featuring hand-chamfered bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève pattern, along with a finely hand-guilloché oscillating weight.
Interview with Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage
1/ In recent years, Vacheron Constantin has entered the field of high jewelry with its Egérie collection. So why adorn the Patrimony line with diamonds?
Until now, the Patrimony collection has only offered a delicate setting on the bezel, or even the dial, of certain 36.5mm-diameter models. However, we felt that the elegance of the collection lent itself admirably to a bolder version in terms of setting. That’s why we opted for a snow setting on the dial, which offers this singular aspect of random preciousness with a fascinating sparkle. If we look back at the history of Vacheron Constantin ladies’ watches, whose first wristwatch models date back to the late 19th century, we realize that gem-setting has been successfully adapted to all eras, particularly during the Art Deco period, without ever being confined to a specific watch range. We perpetuate this tradition because we are convinced that the work of craftsmen can sublimate any collection.
2/ Is this piece aimed at a gendered audience?
Is it still possible to talk about a gendered watch? What may seem typically feminine or masculine in some latitudes is not in others. Rather, it’s the case size that now seems to determine what’s wearable on a male or female wrist. From there, anything is possible. Now, it’s true that at Vacheron Constantin, as at most manufactures, the distinction is made between masculine and feminine watches when it comes to presenting our collections. In this sense, it’s always difficult to break away from certain traditions. But as our society evolves, I think this distinction will gradually fade.
3/ With this type of model, is Vacheron Constantin responding to demand or anticipating customer tastes and aspirations?
This is our own doing. More precisely, it emanates from our design department, which is obviously attentive to market trends. But pieces set entirely on the case and dial, or even on the bracelet, are nothing new in the watchmaking world. I’d go so far as to say they’ve been around for over a century, including at Vacheron Constantin, which produced some magnificent jewelled watches in the 1920s, for example. With this type of piece, we enter the world of the jewel-watch, where it’s usually either the watchmaking approach or the jewelry aspect that predominates. With this new piece in the Patrimony collection, I think we’ve succeeded very well in osmosing the two. This was certainly the challenge to be taken up, and one that best corresponds to current demand: to create a jewel-watch that is also a jewel-watch.
Sum-up
Inspired by the sleek watches of the 1950s, Vacheron Constantin‘s Patrimony collection has been expanded for the first time to include a jewellery model. This model combines the purity of the collection’s design with the audacity of the most unforgettable piece of haute joaillerie ever created by the Maison. Luminous and radiant in all its facets, the Patrimony self-winding watch unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai is adorned with 769 round diamonds delicately set on its 37 mm white gold dial and case. To accentuate the brilliance of the dial, 420 round diamonds are snow-set, a demanding and meticulous technique consists in selecting each diamond one by one, to cover the metal of the dial as much as possible. The result is a spectacular sparkle that extends to the caseback opening onto the refined finishing of in-house self-winding Calibre 2460 SC/3. The pearlescent blue alligator strap features a convenient interchangeability system further enhancing the charm of this watch and enabling an endless play on styles and colours.
Traditionnelle manual-winding – Colourful elegance and a modern vibe: a contemporary take on classical design
- Vacheron Constantin is expanding its Traditionnelle collection with two models featuring a majestic green sunburst dial highlighted by a pink gold case.
- A 33 mm diamond-set model and a 38 mm model embrace all wrist types with an elegantly contemporary touch.
- Two manual-winding in-house calibres beating steadily behind the scenes ensure day-to-day reliability and accuracy.
These models retain the essential characteristics of the rich Genevan watchmaking heritage perpetuated by Vacheron Constantin, while reflecting the contemporary spirit through a colourful twist featuring a deep green sunburst dial striking a powerful contrast with the pink gold case.
“The Traditionnelle collection embodies the full measure of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking legitimacy”, explains the Maison’s Style and Heritage Director Christian Selmoni. “These are models steeped in history and tradition, endowed with specific stylistic codes reflecting a timeless aesthetic, regardless of the mechanical complexity involved. Through this new dial colour, Vacheron Constantin is pursuing its contemporary vision of the classic approach to design.”
38 mm of wrist-worn elegance
The Traditionnelle manual-winding watch is adorned with a pleasing pink-gold and green colour combo, framed by a 38 mm diameter designed to suit the wrists of High Watchmaking devotees. As a loyal custodian of the 18th-century watchmaking heritage, this new Traditionnelle watch features all the collection’s characteristic design codes. Its classic look is immediately recognisable by the slender, stepped case middle and the railway-type minutes track punctuating the dial, swept over by Dauphine-style hands. The contemporary twist comes in the form of a new green dial with a sunburst finish playing with light effects at every subtle flick of the wrist.
Technically speaking, horological mechanics are dedicated to aesthetics in this model. Vacheron Constantin has opted for manual-winding in-house Calibre 4400 AS endowed with a generous 65-hour power reserve to drive the hours, minutes and small seconds indications, It can be admired through the sapphire caseback and features the refined Côtes de Genève pattern representing the unmistakable signature of a High Watchmaking timepiece.
33 mm of light
The Traditionnelle manual-winding watch comes in an elegant 33 mm-diameter pink gold case. Featuring a slim stepped profile, railway-type minutes track and Dauphine-type hands, this beautifully balanced model celebrates traditional, classical watchmaking codes, yet with an exquisitely original touch. The radiance of the 54 round-cut diamonds delicately set on the bezel is matched by that of the majestic green sunburst dial. A truly luminous sight enhanced by a tone-on-tone alligator strap.
Beating behind the scenes is in-house manual-winding Calibre 1440 with its 42-hour power reserve and Côtes de Genève decorative pattern.
Interview with Christian Selmoni, Director of Style & Heritage
1/ This is of course an original colour, but what about the actual principle of the monochrome dial? Could you tell us more about its background with Vacheron Constantin?
The first watches in the Vacheron Constantin collection to feature monochrome dials date back to the early 19th century. During this period, timepieces were richly adorned on the case side, yet more understated when it came to the dial. Despite this sobriety, the watch face was already being explored as a field on which to express new decorative techniques, such as applied numerals on a matt surface, guilloché work on the central zone, as well as textured effects. The monochrome green sunburst dial of the Traditionnelle model continues this tradition while adopting a more contemporary approach recalling the advent of ultra-thin watches in the early 20th century. The apparent simplicity of the design is aligned with the historical perspective that is one of our Maison’s key cornerstones. This new blend of technology and aesthetics imbues these models with a clear sense of timelessness and pure classicism.
2/ Does this explain why the Traditionelle line was chosen as a field of expression, rather than the Fiftysix collection, for example, with its monochrome and sometimes two-toned dials?
The Fiftysix collection appeared in 2018, driven by a desire to provide a contemporary interpretation of a 1956 Vacheron Constantin model. Reflecting this spirit, the watch radiates a vintage look that makes it so charming, with dial colours perfectly attuned with the standards of the era: silver-toned, blue or a magnificent sepia evoking the patina of Chesterfield armchairs. The watches in the Fiftysix collection also all measure 40 mm in diameter, except for the tourbillon model, which is 41 mm. In this respect, the Traditionnelle collection is far better suited to the stylistic exercise we are offering with this new model – not only in terms of case sizes, which range from 30 mm to 42 mm, but also with regards to the dials, which Vacheron Constantin has already offered in mother-of-pearl or pastel-coloured versions for the ladies’ models. With this new sunburst green hue, we are bringing a breath of fresh air to a classic collection lending itself perfectly to these contemporary chromatic touches.
3/ Will this combination of a gold case and a gemset bezel in the Traditionnelle collection be extended to other dial colours?
Vacheron Constantin’s approach to dial colours remains essentially classic and consistently in sync with the spirit of its collections. It is however clear that in recent years, watch lovers have shown a definite inclination towards more colourful, livelier models. These two new additions to the Traditionnelle collection demonstrate that Vacheron Constantin is perfectly attuned to these trends and capable of adapting them to its own aesthetic. It is therefore highly likely that other dial colours will be added to the Vacheron Constantin chromatic range, but always in the spirit of moderation and elegance characterising Vacheron Constantin-style watchmaking.
Sum-up
Sunny, luminous and timeless, two new manual winding Traditionnelle watches presented at Watches and Wonders Shanghai are joining Vacheron Constantin’s classic collection. Graced with a deep green sunburst dial, they encapsulate the spirit of the times at the heart of an elegant classic pink gold case recognisable by its slim stepped profile. The Traditionnelle manual-winding watch is available in two diameters designed to suit every wrist. In the 33 mm version, it flaunts its precious finery with a dainty setting of 54 diamonds adorning the bezel; while the 38 mm pink gold case encircles the wrist with a resolutely elegant touch. These two models, reserved exclusively for China for a full month, are fitted with a tone-on-tone alligator leather strap and driven by in-house manual-winding movements: Calibre 4400AS with a generous 65-hour power reserve for the 38 mm model; and Calibre 1440 with a 42-hour power reserve for the 33 mm version.
Métiers d’Art Tribute to Explorer Naturalists Technical Specifications
Reference
7500U/000G-B991: Cap-Vert
7500U/000R-B992: Détroit de Magellan
7500U/000G-B993: Terre de Feu
7500U/000R-B994: Cap de Bonne-Espérance
203,000€ RSP in Germany
Calibre
1120 AT/1
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
22K gold oscillating weight with tapisserie decor
28 mm (12 ½ ‘’’ diameter), 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
205 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Dragging hours, minutes
Case
18K white gold / 18K 4N pink gold
41mm diameter, 11.68 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial
18K white gold, two-level dial, Grand Feu miniature enamel
Hand-engraved 18K white gold applique
Straps
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle
18K white gold / 18K 4N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Limited series of ten timepieces per reference.
Models available exclusively through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.
Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Dragon Technical Specifications
References
86073/000P-B982
86073/000R-B983
164,000€ / 135,000€ RSP in Germany
Calibre
2460 G4
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
31 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 6.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
237 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces
Indications
Hours, minutes, day of the week and date in apertures
Case
950 platinum/18K 5N pink gold
40 mm diameter, 12.72 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3bar (approx.30 meters)
Dial
18K gold, hand-engraved, Grand Feu enamelled
Hand-engraved 950 platinum/18K 5N pink gold dragon
Straps
Dark blue/brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp
950 platinum/18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen
Limited series of 25 pieces per reference.
Pieces only available through the Vacheron Constantin boutiques.
Patrimony self-winding Jewellery Technical Specifications
References
4116U-000G-B909
89,000€ RSP in Germany
Calibre
2460 SC/3
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 3.6 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
182 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces
Indications
Hours, minutes and center seconds
Case
18K white gold case set with 331 round-cut diamonds
37 mm diameter, 9.25 mm thick
Crown set with 1 round-cut diamond
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial
18K white gold dial set with 420 round-cut diamonds
Convex external zone
18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour & minutes hands
Straps
Night blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, calf inner shell, square scales, with self-interchangeable system integrated
Buckle
18K white gold ardillon buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds
Total diamond-setting
769 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 5.81 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
Traditionnelle manual-winding 33mm Technical Specifications
References
1405T/000R-H009
32,100€ RSP in Germany
Calibre
1440
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Manual, self-winding
22.1mm (9 1/2’’’) diameter, 2.6 mm thick
Approximately 42 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28’800 vibrations per hour)
116 components
19 rubies
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Case
Pink gold 18K 5N
33 mm diameter, 7.70 mm thick
Bezel set with 54 round-cut diamonds
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial
Deep green color, sunburst finishin
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers and hands
Straps
Deep green Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with calf inner shell, stitched tip, square scales
Clasp
18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Total diamond-setting
54 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 0.87 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
Traditionnelle manual-winding 38 mm Technical Specifications
References
82172/000R-H008
25,700€ RSP in Germany
Calibre
4400 AS
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
28.6mm (12 ½‘’’) diameter, 2.8mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28’800 vibrations per hour)
127 components
21 rubies
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes, smallseconds
Case
Pink gold 18K 5N
38 mm diameter, 7.77 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial
Deep green color, sunburst finishing
Index appliques et aiguilles en or rose 18K 5N
Straps
Deep green Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with calf inner shell, tone-on-tone, stitched tip, square scales
Clasp
18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
