For its second consecutive appearance at Watches & Wonders Geneva, Bvlgari arrived not to establish itself, that happened in 2025, but to push harder. The booth, draped in marble tones and precious materials with a nod to kinetic art and Italian sartorialism, set the scene perfectly for a collection that carries a clear message: Bvlgari operates at the intersection of Swiss mechanical mastery and Roman creative obsession. Jean-Christophe Babin, President and CEO, framed it simply as “creative passion,” and the watches on show leave no room for doubt.
Octo Finissimo 37 mm: Four Expressions of a New Chapter
The reduction from 40 mm to 37 mm sounds modest on paper, yet it triggered a completely new development cycle. Product Creation Executive Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani described the new diameter as “a reimagined blank canvas,” and technically, the statement holds firm.
The Movement: Calibre BVF 100
Bvlgari‘s manufacture in Switzerland developed the BVF 100 over three years, drawing directly on the miniaturisation work done for the Serpenti Piccolissimo and Solotempo ladies’ movements. The result is a self-winding calibre with a micro-rotor, measuring just 2.35 mm in height and 31 mm in diameter, which despite being 0.12 mm thicker than its 40 mm predecessor, achieves a 20% reduction in total volume. It beats at 21,600 vph (3 Hz) and delivers 72 hours of power reserve.
Notably, the finishing combines hand-applied radiating Côtes de Genève on both bridges and mainplate, a more technically demanding approach than the conventional straight-stripe Geneva stripes, paired with perlage on inner surfaces. The octagonal screws also receive a new profile, a detail visible only under careful scrutiny. The overall watch tips the scales at just 65 grams.
The Dial and Case
Bvlgari presents the 37 mm in three BVF 100-powered versions. The sandblasted titanium (ref. 104089) carries an opaline titanium dial with black hands, its sandblasted surface building depth and contrast against the architectural facets of the case. The satin-polished titanium (ref. 104351) shifts the register toward a more refined read, with an opaline dial and rhodium-plated hands, the polished edges catching light against the brushed surfaces in a classic high-watchmaking dialogue. The 18-carat yellow gold version (ref. 104120) goes further still: a fully satin-polished case and integrated bracelet in yellow gold, with a matching dial and gold-plated hands, expressing the Roman jeweller’s DNA directly on the wrist.
All three share the same 37 mm extra-thin case at 6.45 mm total thickness, a screw-down crown with black ceramic insert, a sapphire caseback, and an integrated bracelet with a push-button folding clasp — now fastened to the case via a screw system for both aesthetic and structural precision.
The Minute Repeater: Ref. 104250
The fourth expression introduces a complication: the BVL 362 hand-wound calibre, 3.12 mm thick, offering hours, minutes, small seconds and a minute repeater with two hammers, running at 21,600 vph with 42 hours of power reserve. Sandblasted titanium handles acoustic duties particularly well here, its surface texture helping project the chime. The dial shows openworked indexes and rhodium grey hands, keeping the visual weight consistent with the technical character of this version. Total thickness rises only marginally to 6.85 mm.
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum — 10 Pieces, 1.85 mm, World Record
Building on the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève-winning titanium Ultra Tourbillon unveiled in 2025, Bvlgari now presents the same 1.85 mm construction, the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon, in platinum. This limited series numbers just 10 pieces.
Calibre BVF 900
The hand-wound BVF 900 flying tourbillon calibre runs at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) with a 42-hour power reserve. At the heart of this limited edition sits a dedicated mainplate with an original galvanic treatment and a steel ratchet wheel with circular satined finishing engraved with geometric decoration. The dial carries the skeletonised hour and minute display counter finished with blue PVD coating, giving this platinum edition its defining colour signature.
Case and Bracelet
The 40 mm case and integrated bracelet both use platinum — a material requiring specific tooling and dedicated expertise due to its exceptional density. Bvlgari uses it not as a departure but as a natural extension of its jewellery heritage: the Maison has worked in platinum since its earliest signed collections. The bracelet juxtaposes satin-brushed and polished finishes, a combination that underscores both the material’s versatility and the manufacture’s hand-finishing capabilities. No retail price has been officially communicated for this limited series.
Serpenti Tubogas Studs Capsule: Gold, Steel and Colour
The Serpenti Tubogas Studs Capsule brings together three icons from Bvlgari’s vocabulary: the Serpenti silhouette, the Tubogas coiled bracelet technique, and the pyramidal stud, originally drawn from the Maison’s jewellery archives. Four limited editions constitute the capsule, spanning full yellow gold and three bicolour “Gold & Steel” configurations.
Dials and Decoration
Each version centres on a hardstone or mother-of-pearl dial in a 35 mm case. The all-gold ref. 104302 pairs carnelian with a yellow gold Tubogas bracelet, its five studs paved with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.6 ct total) and a bezel set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.3 ct). The mother-of-pearl version (ref. 104301/104347) keeps the iridescent white dial in steel and yellow gold, with polished yellow gold studs on the bracelet. The sodalite (ref. 104340/104346) introduces rose gold and steel, its blue mineral dial acquiring a deeper, more architectural quality against the diamond-set rose gold studs. Finally, the malachite (ref. 104360/104361) brings deep veined green against a steel and yellow gold bracelet with polished gold studs. All bezels carry a yellow or rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite.
Movement and Case
All four Serpenti Tubogas Studs Capsule watches run on quartz movements, displaying hours and minutes, with 30-metre water resistance. The 35 mm cases integrate the jewellery-watch tradition without compromising wearability.
Serpenti Aeterna: 470+ Stones, 470+ Hours of Work
Serpenti Aeterna returns with expanded colour and, for the first time, a yellow gold version alongside the multicolour gem-set iteration.
Gem-Set Version: Ref. 104312
The 24 mm rose gold case carries a fully pavé diamond dial, blue hands, and a rose gold bracelet set with 493 round brilliant-cut diamonds (5.0 ct) plus 122 coloured stones totalling 13 ct: rubellite, amethyst, topaz, emerald, citrine, pink sapphire, tanzanite, ParaÃba tourmaline, tsavorite, spessartite, pink tourmaline, aquamarine, blue sapphire and peridot, in round, pear, square and oval cuts. Bvlgari invested 225 hours in development, 185 hours in stone selection and preparation, and over 60 hours in setting. Openworked hexagonal scales inside the bracelet allow light to pass through the stones, creating shifting transparency on the wrist.
Yellow Gold Version: Ref. 104341/104352
New for 2026, the yellow gold Serpenti Aeterna adopts a white mother-of-pearl dial, yellow gold-plated hands, and a plain yellow gold bracelet set with 68 round brilliant-cut diamonds (0.56 ct), with the head and tail defined by additional diamond lines. The restraint here is deliberate: the solar quality of yellow gold does the visual work, reducing the need for chromatic complexity. Available in 145 mm and 155 mm lengths, both Serpenti Aeterna versions run on quartz movements.
Final Thoughts
Bvlgari’s 2026 Watches & Wonders presentation holds together remarkably well as a coherent statement. The BVF 100 calibre genuinely advances the Octo Finissimo story: the radiating Côtes de Genève finishing alone elevates the movement’s visual quality above many competitors at this price tier. The Ultra Tourbillon Platinum, at 10 pieces, stakes its claim as an instant collector’s piece. The Serpenti work, from the Studs Capsule to the Aeterna, confirms Bvlgari’s position as one of the main major house (maybe even the THE house that does it best) that bridges high jewellery and watchmaking without compromise. No official retail prices have been published for the majority of the 2026 collection at the time of writing. Contact your nearest Bvlgari boutique for pricing.
