Independents highlights at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII

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On 9 & 10 May, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will host its first live watch auction of 2026, the Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII. The sale will present more than 200 exceptional timepieces spanning over three centuries of watchmaking.

Over the past two decades, independent watchmaking has become one of the most compelling and closely followed segments of the collector market. Free from the constraints of large-scale industrial production, independent watchmakers often operate small ateliers where each watch is conceived, developed, and finished under the direct supervision of its creator. This independence allows for extraordinary levels of technical experimentation, artistic expression, and handcraft. With production typically measured in dozens rather than thousands of watches per year, the resulting timepieces combine mechanical innovation with extreme rarity.

For collectors, these watches offer a uniquely personal connection to the watchmaker’s vision and represent some of the most intellectually engaging and collectible creations in contemporary horology.

LOT 36: AKRIVIA, AK-06

Estimate: CHF 350,000–700,000

One of the top highlights is an Akrivia AK-06 in stainless steel made circa 2018 by Rexhep Rexhepi, one of the most celebrated independent watchmakers of his generation. Introduced in 2017, the AK-06 represents a shift toward chronometric purity and restrained aesthetics within the Akrivia catalogue.

Its manual-wind movement is displayed prominently on the dial side, revealing a perfectly symmetrical architecture featuring a zero-reset seconds mechanism and an integrated power-reserve indication. Produced in just 25 examples in stainless steel with a dark grey movement plate, the model exemplifies Rexhepi’s commitment to technical clarity and exceptional hand finishing.

LOT 65: GREUBEL FORSEY X PHILIPPE DUFOUR X MICHEL BOULANGER, Naissance d’Une Montre 1

Estimate: CHF 400,000–800,000

Phillips is also honoured to present Naissance d’Une Montre 1, No. 01/11, the first numbered example from the landmark Time Æon Foundation project. Guided by Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Philippe Dufour, watchmaker Michel Boulanger spent six years mastering traditional techniques before constructing this tourbillon wristwatch entirely by hand using historically faithful tools. Every component was shaped, finished, and assembled without modern automated processes. The present watch, number 1 of 11, was handmade and assembled by Boulanger himself and is uniquely fitted with a fully handmade 18k white gold case.

LOT 128: F.P. JOURNE, Octa Chronographe 38mm Brass Movement

Estimate: CHF 150,000–300,000

The sale will further feature a selection of exceptional F.P. Journe wristwatches, including a rare, early F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe from 2001 in platinum. Measuring 38mm and fitted with a brass movement featuring straight Côtes de Genève decoration, the present watch is believed to be among the earliest delivered examples of the model. Even more remarkably, research suggests that only three watches were produced combining a brass movement, straight Geneva stripes, and a “shiny” 18k yellow gold dial in this configuration. At its launch, the Octa Chronographe introduced a groundbreaking automatic movement with a large date, flyback chronograph, and an extraordinary 120-hour power reserve.

LOT 149: F.P. JOURNE, Chronometre a Resonance “Pisa”

Estimate: CHF 450,000–900,000

Another highlight from François-Paul Journe is a Chronomètre à Résonance “Pisa” edition produced in 2009 for the iconic Milanese retailer Pisa. Limited to just five pieces, this special edition features a striking dial with dark grey ruthenium-plated subdials set against an 18k white gold base. The Chronomètre à Résonance remains one of the most technically fascinating wristwatches of modern horology, utilizing two balance wheels that naturally synchronize through resonance to improve timekeeping stability and precision.

LOT 208: F.P. JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain 38mm Brass Movement

Estimate: CHF 350,000–700,000

A rare, early example of the Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Égalité from 2003 further illustrates Journe’s technical brilliance. Housed in a 38mm platinum case and fitted with a brass movement, the watch incorporates a constant-force remontoir mechanism designed to deliver consistent power to the escapement regardless of the mainspring’s state of wind. With its distinctive 18k yellow gold dial and beautifully exposed one-second remontoir mechanism at six o’clock, the model stands as one of the defining creations of contemporary independent watchmaking.

LOT 34: URBAN JURGENSEN, Reference 6

Estimate: CHF 40,000–80,000

Collectors will also encounter an exceptionally elusive Urban Jürgensen Reference 6 in 18k yellow gold with a lapis lazuli dial. Believed to have been produced in extremely small numbers during the 1990s, the model departs from the brand’s classical design codes with a tonneau-shaped case and striking stone dial. So rarely seen that even seasoned collectors have reported encountering only a handful of examples, the present watch is believed to be appearing at auction for the first time.

LOT 126: ROGER SMITH, Series 3

Estimate: CHF 300,000–600,000

Completing the group of independent highlights is a Roger Smith Series 3 in 18k pink gold from 2019 (Lot 126, estimate CHF 300,000–600,000), representing the pinnacle of 21st-century British watchmaking. As the only apprentice ever trained by the legendary George Daniels, Smith continues the tradition of fully handcrafted watchmaking on the Isle of Man. With production limited to roughly 15 watches per year, each Roger Smith timepiece embodies Daniels’ horological philosophy, seen in the Series 3 through the hand-engine-turned silver dial, the hand-engraved movement components, and Smith’s single-wheel interpretation of the Co-Axial escapement. The present watch is the first Series 3 in 18k pink gold ever to appear at an international auction.

The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII will take place on 9 & 10 May 2026 at the Hôtel Président Wilson in Geneva, offering collectors an exceptional selection of historically important and rare timepieces.