PHILLIPS presents STOPPING TIME, The Pucci Papaleo Collection of Rolex Chronographs: Part I

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GENEVA – 22 SEPTEMBER 2026 – Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is delighted to announce Part I of the Pucci Papaleo Collection of Rolex Chronographs, comprising 16 watches to be offered during The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV on 7 & 8 November at Hotel President, Geneva.

For more than 30 years, Pucci Papaleo has pursued Rolex chronographs across successive generations, from the early iterations of the 1930s and 1940s to the models that preceded and accompanied the arrival of the Cosmograph Daytona. Over decades, his pursuit of knowledge and perfection has shaped the collection, guided by an uncompromising eye for quality and a constant search for the finest and best-preserved examples of each reference.

The 16 watches offered in November provide a window onto the development of the Rolex chronograph and the details Papaleo has spent much of his career studying. They include rare references, most unusual dial configurations, and sought-after retailer-signed examples. Most of the watches have remained largely untouched, retaining the case geometry, dial surfaces, and small details that are often lost through decades of wear or intervention.

Highlights include an early and incredibly attractive Ref. 3525 “Bariletto,” Rolex’s first chronograph wristwatch housed in an Oyster case; an exceptionally well preserved pink gold Ref. 3335, one of Rolex’s largest early chronographs; the most probably unique square Ref. 3830; a Ref. 6239 from the first Cosmograph Daytona generation with rare “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial; and a stunning and possibly unique 14k yellow gold Ref. 6264 with “Paul Newman Lemon” dial.

A selection of watches from the Pucci Papaleo Collection will travel internationally ahead of The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV, with presentations in Dubai, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Riyadh, and London before returning to Geneva for the sale preview.

Pucci Papaleo: Collector, Publisher, and Rolex Scholar

Based in Rome, Pucci Papaleo has held a distinctive position in the world of vintage Rolex for more than three decades. Collector, publisher, author, and curator, he has not only assembled watches but also devoted much of his career to recording and explaining them.

His interest in Rolex chronographs developed during the late 1980s, at a time when Italian collectors and dealers were playing an important role in the emerging international market for vintage Rolex. During the 1990s, his collecting evolved alongside a career in publishing, graphic design, and photography. These interests came together in 2004 with the publication of I Cronografi Rolex – La Leggenda, followed by years of research that culminated in 2012’s Ultimate Rolex Daytona, an extensive visual study of the Cosmograph Daytona and its many variations.

Papaleo’s method relies on close comparison. Watches from his own collection and others sourced from collectors and dealers are studied and photographed to document differences in dials, cases, scales, typography, and other details. His publications have helped make information once exchanged largely among specialist collectors available to a much wider audience.

His longstanding relationship with Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo has led to landmark thematic auctions. In 2013, Papaleo curated Daytona Lesson One, a celebration of the model’s 50th anniversary told through 50 remarkable examples. Five years later, the three reunited for Phillips’ Daytona Ultimatum, bringing together 32 exceptional watches in a carefully considered journey through the history, evolution and enduring fascination of the legendary chronograph.

Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo, Senior Consultants at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, said: “Pucci has spent more than 30 years pursuing knowledge and perfection in shaping his collection of Rolex chronographs. But his contribution goes far beyond collecting. Through his books, his photography, and his willingness to share what he has learned, he has helped give generations of collectors the tools to understand these watches. He has played a significant role in bringing Rolex to the position it occupies in the collecting world today.”

More Than Three Decades of Collecting

The approximately 70 watches in the Pucci Papaleo Collection cover a broad history of the Rolex chronograph. Papaleo has not restricted himself to a single reference, period, metal, or style. Instead, he has sought examples that could document different stages in the development of the chronograph at Rolex, while maintaining the standards of rarity, originality, and especially condition that have come to characterize his collection.

Part I offers 16 watches from that history. Early pieces illustrate Rolex’s experiments with case forms and dial layouts before the Oyster chronograph became established. Others chart the development of the waterproof chronograph through the 1940s and 1950s, and beyond, the gradual emergence of the visual and technical vocabulary that would lead to the Cosmograph Daytona in 1963, and its subsequent development through the manual-winding Daytona era.

Exceptional condition is the defining thread running through the collection. Sharp case edges, crisp facets, clear hallmarks, and remarkably preserved dials reveal these watches much as they would have appeared when first made, while several are further distinguished by retailer signatures and period accessories. Together, the 16 watches offer a rare window onto the history of Rolex chronographs and the details and nuances that define their finest examples.

SELECTED HIGHLIGHTS

Lot 99 | ROLEX | Ref. 3525 “Bariletto,” Stainless Steel, Circa 1940

Estimate CHF 250,000–500,00

Introduced in 1939, the Ref. 3525 was Rolex’s first chronograph wristwatch housed in an Oyster case, combining a screw-down caseback and crown with chronograph functionality. This stainless-steel example belongs to an early generation of the reference, recognizable by its externally stamped case number. Its condition is particularly notable: both steps of the bezel remain sharply defined, including the fine outer step readily diminished through polishing, while the brushed case surfaces remain clearly visible. The multi-scale dial has developed a warm vanilla tone and carries the signature of Prouds, the Australian retailer based in Sydney. According to current research, this is the only Ref. 3525 known on the market with the Prouds signature. A Rolex rice-grain bracelet, a rarity in itself, completes the watch.

Lot 24 | ROLEX | Ref. 3335, 18k Pink Gold, Circa 1941

Estimate CHF 250,000–500,000

Among the larger vintage chronographs produced by Rolex, the Ref. 3335 is distinguished by its substantial 37mm case, concave bezel, angled lugs on gold examples, and oversized 12-hour register. Production was limited, and the sharp geometry of the case is particularly vulnerable to polishing. This pink gold example has survived in exceptional condition, retaining pronounced bevels and a sharply defined hallmark beneath the lug. Its pink dial shows minimal signs of aging, with crisp printing and the signature of Monetti, the Naples retailer founded in 1904. The combination of pink gold case, pink dial, retailer signature, and state of preservation makes this an important example of Rolex chronograph production from the early 1940s.

Lot 208 | ROLEX | Ref. 3830, 18k Yellow Gold, Circa 1941

Estimate in excess of CHF 1,000,000

Most probably unique and last seen at auction in 2004, the Ref. 3830 has a particular place in the history of Rolex chronographs. Its square 18k yellow gold case departs sharply from the round forms more commonly associated with Rolex during the period. The stepped construction, recessed crown, and 30mm width give the watch striking proportions, while the case retains crisp facets and sharply defined hallmarks. Its champagne dial carries Arabic numerals, a spiral tachymeter scale, and the signature of Milan retailer Verga. According to current research, no other Ref. 3830 has appeared at auction. Its rarity and unconventional architecture record a period when Rolex was still exploring different forms for the wrist chronograph.

Lot 22 | ROLEX | Ref. 6239 “Paul Newman Musketeer,” Stainless Steel, Circa 1969

Estimate CHF 250,000–500,000

The Ref. 6239, introduced in 1963, was the first reference in the Cosmograph Daytona family and the first Rolex chronograph to place the tachymeter scale on the bezel. This example is distinguished by its rare black “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial. Unlike standard Paul Newman dials, where the concentric azurage extends to the edge of the subsidiary registers, the Musketeer variation uses azurage across only part of each register, with a smooth outer section sloping toward the main dial. The dial is exceptionally well preserved, retaining intact luminous dots and crisp graphics, while the stainless-steel case remains notably sharp. The watch is accompanied by its original Rolex guarantee and presentation box.

Lot 131 | ROLEX | Ref. 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon,” 14k Yellow Gold, Circa 1970

Estimate in excess of CHF 1,000,000

Among the collection’s greatest rarities is an exceptional Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon” from circa 1970, distinguished by its extraordinarily rare creamy yellow dial and 14k yellow gold case. To the best of our knowledge, it is the only known 14k example within the celebrated 2.3 million “Lemon” serial range, and very likely the earliest and only known example to have appeared on the market in this batch with 2.3 million serial number. Preserved in remarkable condition, with a sharp, beautifully defined case and an exceptionally well-preserved dial, the watch represents one of the rarest and most coveted expressions of the Paul Newman Daytona.

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The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV will take place on 7 & 8 November 2026 at the Hotel President in Geneva. Ahead of the auction, highlights will travel to Dubai, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Riyadh, and London, before returning to Geneva for the final preview from 4–7 November.

GLOBAL HIGHLIGHTS TOUR

DUBAI | 1–3 October | M.A.D.Gallery, First Floor, Unit FF-269, Fashion Avenue, The Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai
NEW YORK | 14–16 October | Phillips, 432 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10022
SINGAPORE | 16–17 October | The St. Regis Singapore, 29 Tanglin Road, Singapore 247911
HONG KONG | 20–22 October | Phillips, 503 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong
RIYADH | 20–21 October | Crown & Compass, QJ8R+64Q, Metro Boulevard, Al Aqiq, Riyadh 13519
LONDON | 22–24 October | Phillips, 30 Berkeley Square, London W1J 6EX
GENEVA | 4–7 November | Hotel President, Quai Wilson 47, 1211 Geneva

AUCTION DETAILS

The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV
Auction: 7 & 8 November 2026
Location: Hotel President, Quai Wilson 47, 1211 Geneva, Switzerland