H. Moser & Cie. has always been a beacon of creativity in the world of haute horlogerie – with super sports tourbillon, daring colours and fantastic craftsmanship. With the new Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Reference 3250-1200, the brand adds another unique timepiece to its portfolio, seamlessly blending technical sophistication with a dynamic and modern aesthetic. The watch, which boasts a fascinating 30-second retrograde complication on the now classic fumé dial with a sunburst pattern and secret signature, captures the essence of the brand’s pioneering spirit and offers a mesmerizing visual display that will leave watch enthusiasts captivated.
A Short History of H. Moser & Cie.
Founded in 1828 by Heinrich Moser in St. Petersburg, H. Moser & Cie. has a storied history in fine watchmaking. The brand, now based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, Switzerland, has crafted over 18 in-house calibres and is known for its meticulous craftsmanship and a deep respect for traditional watchmaking. In 2012, the company was incorporated into Moser Watch Holding, under the leadership of MELB Holding. With the support of its sister company, Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), H. Moser & Cie. has developed its own regulating organs and balance springs, showcasing a mastery of technical innovation.
Presentation of the Case
The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds features a robust and sporty case crafted in solid stainless steel, measuring 42.8 mm in diameter and with a height of 14.2 mm (including the domed sapphire crystal). The watch is designed to handle both daily wear and adventurous endeavours, as evidenced by its impressive water resistance of up to 12 ATM (120 meters). The screw-in crown, adorned with the “M” logo, and the transparent case back further emphasize the watch’s blend of utility and elegance. The design retains the rugged charm of the Pioneer collection while incorporating an elegant touch that H. Moser & Cie. is known for.
Midnight Blue fumé with sunburst pattern, secret signature and complication on display
The highlight of the watch is its Midnight Blue fumé dial with a captivating sunburst pattern. As with all Moser watches with this type of dial finish, the colours metamorphose in the light ranging from light blue to almost black. The secret signature is light-dependent and can be easily hidden or revealed by the right angle of light rays. Regardless of what is present on the dial (meaning complications) I always search first to catch the calligraphic logo. I just love it so much.
True to the brand’s understated style, the H. Moser & Cie. logo applied in transparent lacquer is accompanied by the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova®, ensuring readability and joy in all lighting conditions. Faceted indices complete the design, creating a harmonious visual experience.
This dial serves as the perfect canvas for the retrograde seconds complication, which is prominently displayed at 6 o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the hand completes its arc before snapping back to its starting position, creating a lively animation that contrasts with the minimalist design ethos of H. Moser & Cie.
A beautiful daily beater
At the heart of the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the HMC 250 automatic calibre. This movement, developed in collaboration with Agenhor SA, is an evolution of H. Moser & Cie.’s HMC 201 base calibre, featuring a module designed specifically for the 30-second retrograde complication. The movement, measuring 32.0 mm in diameter and 6.5 mm in height, operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). It is equipped with 31 jewels and boasts a minimum power reserve of three days, thanks to its bi-directional pawl winding system.
What sets the Moser Calibre HMC 250 apart is its ingenious retrograde mechanism. This complication is controlled by a double snail cam that enables the seconds hand to complete its journey in 30 seconds before snapping back to its initial position. The visible rack and the precise positioning of the hand add to the movement’s technical allure, making it both a visual and mechanical masterpiece. The movement is finished with Moser’s signature double stripes, perlage, and polished screws, showcasing the brand’s commitment to high-end finishing.
Sublime, independent, sporty
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is a remarkable fusion of innovation and aesthetics, designed for connoisseurs who appreciate both technical sophistication and timeless elegance. Its unique 30-second retrograde seconds complication, combined with the sporty yet refined Pioneer case, makes it a standout piece in the collection. With its robust build, water resistance, and mesmerizing dial design, this watch is a testament to H. Moser & Cie.’s ability to continuously push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, offering enthusiasts a timepiece that is as functional as it is beautiful.
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Technical Specifications
Reference 3250-1200 – CHF 19 900
Functions
- Hours and minutes
- Retrograde second, jump every 30 seconds
Movement
- HMC 250 automatic calibre with 30-second retrograde module developed by Agenhor SA
- Diameter: 32.0 mm ou 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 6.5 mm
- Frequency: 21 600 Vib/h
- 31 jewels
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Engraved oscillating weight
- Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
- Hacking seconds
- Original Straumann® hairspring
- Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes
- Partially skeletonised bridges
Case
- Solid steel
- Diameter: 42.8 mm
- Height without sapphire crystal: 10.6 mm; Height with sapphire crystal: 14.2 mm
- Domed sapphire crystal and see-through case-back
- Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
- Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial
- Midnight Blue fumé with sunburst pattern
- H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer
- Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova®
- Faceted applique indices
Strap/bracelet
- Hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber, or textile strap or steel bracelet
- Steel pin buckle engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo
H. MOSER & CIE.
H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs more than 90 people, has developed 18 in-house calibres to date and produces around 4,000 watches per annum. Through its sister company Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. Independent company incorporated into Moser Watch Holding in 2012, Precision Engineering AG specialises in watch components for escapements, from their initial design to the production of a quality product ready to be integrated into the watch movement it must regulate. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation. The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence and Agenhor SA. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux.