When you ask about the biggest moons you know, a science geek will probably answer Ganymede (a satellite of Jupiter and the ninth-largest object in the Solar System) or Titan (the largest moon of Saturn and the second-largest natural satellite in the Solar System). If you ask a watch geek, he will immediately point to Arnold & Son‘s Perpetual Moon (the two-dimensional moonphase) and Luna Magna (the three-dimensional mechanical marvel). Today I present two Luna Magna: the Ultimate II – a paved white gold case and lagoon-blue PVD-treated ruthenium dial; the Platinum Meteorite & Opal – a precious case enclosing a sand-coloured Widmanstätten patterned meteorite dial.
While Ganymede fits the style and colour Platinum Meteorite & Opal perfectly, the Titan is only partially similar to the Paraiba tourmaline of the Ultimate II (depending on the spectrum used for image acquisition). Nevertheless, both moons and both watches made me think of night, space and hopefully a beautiful future between stars.
From the sky to the wrist
Nowadays, one can rarely justify the need for a moonphase in a wristwatch. The advances of humanity and the actual technical achievements separated most of us from nature and plastered us with white electric light making the need for Moon only sentimental. Although in the past people and animals regulated their life cycle according to the Moon and the Sun, the modern urban jungle person is less to none influenced by the natural forces of the Moon. But there are enough people out there, for which the Moonpahses are more than just a romantic complication. For them, the Moon cycle influences the sleep, the daily mood and sometimes even the daily activities.
Luna Magna – precious exterior
The Arnold & Sun Luna Magna Ultimate II comes with a 44 mm white gold case. The bezel features a double row of baguette-cut diamonds with an invisible set. The front of the lugs also received the same treatment, raising the total number of diamonds to 112 (~5.90 ct). The Platinum Meteorite & Opal version was manufactured in Platinum (Pt 950) and has a more restrained, subtle appearance (as much as the dial permits). Both watches have a thickness of 15.90 mm, also taking the domed crystal into consideration. Although the numbers are relative big on paper, the watches tend to wear smaller.
The beautiful shape of the case is accompanied by the Arnold & Sun crown. This is rich in details element: an excellent grip, a matt recessed and darkened background for the embossed A&S logo. The crown is responsible not only for the time set and winding but also for the moonphase correction – an easy and pleasant activity, also due to the second, more precise to use indication on the back.
A lagoon-blue moon
The Luna Magna Ultimate II reuse the phenomenal ruthenium crystal. While in the first iteration, the Ultimate received a strong blue, the new dial received a much more subtle greenish light blue. Obtained through a PVD (physical vapor deposition), the beautiful shine of the crystal is maintained by this atom by atom deposition. This process is very precise and the shades we notice on the dial surfaces are just the play of light and shadow caused by the irregular heights and positions of the ruthenium crystal facets.
The sub dial is represented by a white opal disk printed with black Roman numerals. Again, we find the thermally blued arrow tip hands. Although the legibility of time reading is excellent, the beauty of the surrounding elements shadows the beauty of the time-telling dial.
The moonphase is manufactured using a white gold globe entirely pavé-set. It is split into two pieces: one with161 brilliant-cut diamonds, representing the illuminated side of the moon, and the same number of Paraíba tourmalines for the dark side. The Paraíba crystal is one of the rarest and most precious gemstones. The beauty of the setting used gives the impression that are tiny diamonds between the Paraíba stones. A close inspection reveals though the shine as coming from the setting prongs.
An unknown land and mysteries of the night
The Arnold & Son Platinum Meteorite & Opal is even more exotic than the blue-lagoon Ultimate II – a meteorite. And since the brand is not satisfied with using the bare metal, the meteorite received a sand-beige shading via PVD. The result is something that now Arnold & Sun masters pretty well – a magic play of shades – depending on ambient light, the metal can give the impression of silver shine or a goldish one.
The sub-dial is similar to the other piece. The difference stays in the luminescent material applied behind the opal. At low light, the SuperLuminova reveals the natural texture of the material, both for the dial and moonphase. Absolutely spectacular.
The meteorite from the octahedrite class was used for the dark side of the moon, having the same, almost magical, properties of light mastering. The moon received in this way a very natural look, comparable with what we see on the night sky.
Beauty and precision
The Calibre A&S1021 used in both watches is fully developed, manufactured, assembled and adjusted in the Manufacture. The use of such a physically big mechanical complication permitted the mounting of a large barrel that, regulated at 3Hz, can hold up to 90 hours of power reserve. Being a hand-wound calibre, this characteristic is a “big” plus.
When it comes to precision, the Luna Magna needs a 1-day correction every 122 years, easy to realise via the crown and with the more precise indication present in the median section of the back. When it comes to beauty, Arnold & Son left no detail untouched.
The purists will find the back of the watch as interesting as the face. Although the moon is as visible as on the front, one can notice the care for details. The bridges with Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre with polished chamfered holds the gears with circular satin-finished with the help of the blued and chamfered with polished head screws. A glimpse of the mainplate will reveal a delicate perlage (circular grain). The second moonphase indication with circular satin finish uses the same style of open arrow hand to indicate the moon cycle phase on a track (also with visual help).
On the wrist and final words
The latest releases of Luna Magna are two exceptional pieces. Enriching an already powerful idea, Arnold & Son offers new ways to be amazed by this complication. The Luna Magna Ultimate II is oriented towards the blingy side, without being ridiculous. Moreover, the watch thrills with its shine, making a notable spectacle in the sun’s light.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum Meteorite & Opal is a more exotic and interesting piece with completely another approach. A meteorite dial with an interesting shine is completely forgotten by night due to a spectacular luminescent insert that reveals in low light a new world.
Both watches feel well on the wrist without significant differentiation due to the materials used. The Luna Magna is fitted with beautiful straps (the white gold Ultimate II received a diamond set buckle as well) with coordinated colours.
In the face of a choice, I would be in big trouble. Selecting a favourite between the two is difficult due to the interesting individuality of both: one shiny, more of a son bird and one more muted and exotic but also a more night owl. I could enjoy them in equal measure.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Ultimate II Technical specifications
Ref. 1LMM.WZ04A.C213A – limited to 8 pieces, 199,900 CHF incl. tax (subject to change)
Functions
- hours, minutes, astronomical moon phases (a correction of one day required every 122 years),
- moon-phase indicator on the back
Movement
- Calibre A&S1021, hand-wound mechanical
- Jewels: 35
- Diameter: 37.60 mm
- Thickness: 12.00 mm with three-dimensional moon (4.75 mm without moon)
- Power reserve: 90 hours
- Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph
- Finishes
- mainplate: circular-grained
- bridges: Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre, chamfered
- wheels: circular satin-finished
- screws: blued and chamfered, polished heads
- moon-phase indicator: circular satin-finished
Dial
- lagoon-blue PVD-treated ruthenium crystals
- hour subdial: white opal
Moon
- 12.00 mm diameter,
- 18K white gold,
- set with 161 diamonds (~0.75 ct) and 161 Paraíba tourmalines (~0.64 ct)
Case
- Material: 18K white gold, bezel invisible set in two rows and set lugs for a total of 112 baguette-cut diamonds (~5.90 ct)
- Diameter: 44.00 mm
- Thickness: 15.90 mm (with crystal)
- Crystal: domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides
- Case back: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
- Water-resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet
Strap
- Material: lagoon-blue alligator skin, raspberry-pink alligator-skin lining, hand-stitched
- Buckle: pin buckle, 18K white gold, set with 26 baguette-cut diamonds (~0.97 ct)
Gem-setting
- Diamonds
- total weight: ~7.62 ct
- colour: D-E-F
- clarity: IF-VVS
- Paraíba tourmalines
- total weight: ~0.64 ct
- colour: blue-green
- clarity: loupe grade
Arnold & Son Platinum Meteorite & Opal Technical Specifications
Ref. 1LMAX.Z01A.C233C – limited to 28 pieces, CHF 70,900 incl. tax (subject to change)
Functions
- hours, minutes, astronomical moon phases (a correction of one day required every 122 years),
- moon-phase indicator on the back
Movement
- Calibre A&S1021, hand-wound mechanical
- Jewels: 35
- Diameter: 37.60 mm
- Thickness: 12.00 mm with three-dimensional moon (4.75 mm without moon)
- Power reserve: 90 hours
- Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph
- Finishes
- mainplate: circular-grained
- bridges: Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre, chamfered
- wheels: circular satin-finished
- screws: blued and chamfered, polished heads
- moon-phase indicator: circular satin-finished
Dial
- meteorite, sand-coloured PVD treatment
- hour dial: white opal with Super-LumiNova
- flange: sand-coloured PVD treatment
Moon
- 12.00 mm in diameter,
- meteorite with sand-coloured PVD treatment and Cacholong opal with Super-LumiNova
Case
- Material: platinum (Pt 950)
- Diameter: 44.00 mm
- Thickness: 15.90 mm (with crystal)
- Crystal: box sapphire, anti-reflective treatment on both sides
- Back: box sapphire crystal, anti-reflective treatment
- Water-resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet
Strap
- Material: grey alligator leather, orange alligator leather lining, hand-sewn
- Buckle: platinum (Pt 950) and titanium folding buckle
