For the first ladies’ watch article of the year and decade, I thought about something special – the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony. It is a gorgeous Chopard lady’s piece launched at Baselworld 2019. What else if not flowers and butterflies can cross the mind of a gentleman when is thinking about his special one? Regardless if a young or young at heart lady, I have never met a person who will not be charmed by one or another, if not both – flowers and butterflies.
Review L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
I was charmed as well by this little beauty. I have met this wonderful piece in an evening at Basekworld 2019. So many little details, so much artistic craft involved. I think it is a great timepiece for a first article dedicated “to her”. I hope it will bring a smile to our ladies readers but also to any gentleman collector that appreciates the beauty beyond conventions.
Haute Horlogerie packed in perfect dimensions
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony has two main key points: the low profile, dress piece dimensions and a fabulous micro-rotor automatic movement. Why key features? I have spoken many times with ladies collector that wish, besides a feminine look (diamonds could be present, but not mandatory), a movement that can bring them the same joy that men collectors experience when they turn their watches. Most of them noted “automatic” complication as an important factor.
The Chopard’s timepiece comes in a gorgeous diamond set 18k gold case. The dimensions are also excellent for this kind of piece: 35mm in diameter and a thickness of only 7.7 mm. The flat profile looks amazing paved: case band, lugs and the slightly inclined bezel.
The watch is fitted with a subtle crown. No diamonds here… But in this way, the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony keeps its integrity as a serious watch for a lady collector that appreciates diamonds as a decoration and not as a “bling” must-have. The crown is decorated with the embossed “L.U.C.” logo, as the gents counterparts.
A three-dimensional dial
The XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony has no indexes. The time is displayed simply with only gilded Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands. But the view is dramatic – the springtime flower garden way
The base dial was hand-painted with peony décor on a dark background. On top was added peony made of white mother-of-pearl. To make the springtime scenery coming to life, a butterfly engraved in 18-carat rose gold was applied between one and two o’clock.
More detailed images of the dial construction can be found on the image gallery, at the end of the article. The images were provided by Chopard.
Better than Côtes de Genève
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony is powered by a sublime mechanical self-winding movement – the L.U.C 96.23-L. The haute horlogerie creation approaches the movement finishes in a delicate feminine manner.
Instead of the “traditional” finishes, the two-tone movement (18-carat rose gold with a rhodium-plating) was hands engraved. The fleurisanne engraving with peony décor follows the dial’s thematic scenery.
The details are charming. But beyond the floral decoration, calibre L.U.C 96.23-L received the more known bevelled and polished edges, brushing, mirror polish and perlage.
The solid 22k gold rotor has a familiar look inherited from other Chopard L.U.C movements. To note the beautiful hammered background.
The 4Hz balance wheel is held in place by a lovely bridge that maintains the floral decor. Due to a double-barrel design, the L.U.C. Twin technology, the power reserve reaches 65 hours. We have seen the same specification on the related calibre L.U.C 96.24-L of the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin in Review – a Gentleman between Gentlemen.
Exquisite, elegant, breathtaking
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony is a watch for a lady collector that expects more than just diamonds on her wrist. It is a timepiece that deserves someone that can appreciate the artistic craft applied on an haute horlogerie movement. Calibre L.U.C 96.23-L is magnificent not only due to lovely engravings but also due to its impressive specifications and exceptional classic finishes.
The dial is a miniature sculpture on top of miniature painting. The butterfly engraved in 18-carat rose gold makes the scenery lively and sweet. It is a watch that makes you exclaim: How cute… But have you seen the movement finishes on the back?
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony Technical Specifications
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony – Eight-piece limited edition in 18-carat rose gold
- 18-carat rose gold
- Total diameter: 35 mm
- Thickness: 7.70 mm
- Water resistance: 30 metres
- 18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo: 5.00 mm
- Upper crystal with glare-proofing treatment
- Bezel, flanks, lugs and case middle set with diamonds
- Polished exhibition back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
- Hand-engraved caseback
- Mechanical self-winding movement: L.U.C 96.23-L
- Winding via in 22-carat gold
- Number of components: 168
- Total diameter: 27.40 mm
- Thickness: 3.50 mm
- Number of jewels: 29
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power reserve: 65 hours
- Two-tone movement in 18-carat rose gold – rhodium-plated after engraving
- Hand-crafted Fleurisanne engraving – peony décor
- Two barrels – Twin technology
- Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Dial and hands:
- Hand-painted dial with peony décor
- Peony made of white mother-of-pearl and butterfly engraved in 18-carat rose gold
- Gilded Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands
- Central display of the hours and minutes
Strap and buckle:
- Strap in pink alligator leather
- Polished pin buckle in diamond-set 18-carat rose gold
Ref. 131944-5004 – in 18-carat rose gold
Eight-piece limited edition – Boutiques exclusive