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Now that the hype of Watches and Wonders 2021 is almost forgotten, we can have a better look at some of the interesting pieces launched with the occasion. A very interesting collection is the revamped Riviera, from Baume et Mercier. This is one of the collections that made waves in the ’70s and reached at the status of an icon. We have a look at representative pieces of the Baume & Mercier Riviera Collection: the grey sapphire dial Ref. 10617, the ladies diamonds adorned Ref. 10614 and the sporty Ref. 10620.

The Riviera watch, a legacy of Baume & Mercier design

Created in 1973, the Riviera watch returns this year to revive the spirit of a distinguished watchmaking era. One of the Brand’s icons, it still features the distinctive bezel and streamlined steel watchcase that have brought it such renown. Rather than a revival, the fifth generation of this legendary watch strikes the chord of an authentic renewal. Baume & Mercier is changing its direction – but not its philosophy – by continuing to express the Brand’s expertise in watchmaking design, style and innovation. Baume & Mercier is making a come-back, and Riviera is its flagship.

Baume & Mercier Riviera Collection

The modern Riviera brings together the perks of a superb 50-year-old design with the advantages and technologies of contemporary times. We found the same distinct elements like the dodecagonal bezel equipped and the four screws but the implementation witness the ultra-modern capabilities of Baume & Mercier.

The Baume & Mercier Riviera comes in 36 mm and 42 mm diameter stainless steel powered by Swiss-made movements: quartz for the smallest case dimension, Selita SW200-1 and the an in-house Baumatic BM13-1975A.

Today are presented all three movement variations. The watches in the review are prototypes and might present slight variations from the final production.

Baume & Mercier Riviera Ref. 10617

The dark Baume & Mercier Riviera Ref. 10617 can be considered the top of the line in the collection: black ADLC case, sapphire dial and in-house movement.

The dark one

Riviera Ref. 10617 comes in a 42mm diameter sandblasted steel-ADLC case. The watch measures only 10.7 mm in thickness and makes it wear smaller. The shape of Riviera was excellently completed with the integration of the sporty rubber strap. The slim octagonal crown with Baume & Mercier logo completes the sporty watch look.

One of the outstanding features of the new Riviera collection is the fast release strap system (with a patent and design used inside Richmont Group). While on one side it limits the amount and design of the straps, it offers a reliable and easy to use design.

A superb sapphire dial

To keep the dark theme homogenous, Baume & Mercier uses a sapphire crystal dial with a stylised waves pattern. Not only the look is superb, but it also permits a glance at the internal in-house movement.

The volumetric indexes are filled with luminescent material and offer a spectacular show in low light conditions and good legibility also. The 3’oclock aperture is reserved for the date.

Here goes the Baumatic

Baume & Mercier Riviera Ref. 10617 is powered by the automatic Baumatic BM13-1975A. This manufacture movement proved its design in the brand’s Baumatic Collection. It packs a very impressive set of features: 5-days power reserve, an antimagnetic escapement regulating system with -4/+6 seconds per day working at 4Hz (28,800 vph). The movement is visible under the sapphire case back and is well decorated: the bridge is presented with circular-grained decor, the plate is sandblasted and enriched with snailed decor, the open-worked oscillating weight was adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and snailing.

Baume & Mercier Riviera Ref. 10614

The ladies oriented Ref. 10614 comes in a smaller 36mm stainless steel case. The dials feature various colours with a common element – the stylised wave pattern. This version is powered by the Ronda 714Li quartz movement. To note that this dimension comes also powered by a Selita SW200 movement.

Steel and diamonds

Ref. 10614 comes with the recognisable Riviera case but instead of the 4 frontal screws, we notice diamonds. An interesting variation that represents part of the feminine segment. The steel case alternates brushing and polishing, decoration found on the integrated bracelet as well.

Consistency in design

The 10614 comes with the silver-coloured wave decoration and the applied indexes as the bigger version. This time with only hour, minutes and date indication due to its quartz calibre. The mechanical version of the 36mm Riviera come with a central seconds hand.

Baume & Mercier Riviera Ref. 10620

The solid dial version of the 42mm size comes with a mesmerising sunrayed view with Riviera’s wave pattern. The 10620 is part of the Selita SW200 powered pieces.

42mm, the same iconic design

The sunray brushing found on the face of the bezel is continued by the chamfered polished dodecagonal edge. The case body presents a fine brushing that is continued on the integrated bracelet.

The 3-links bracelet sports brushed and polished surfaces and it is quite comfortable. The integration with the case and the fast change system are well done. After some trials, the change from steel to rubber and vice-versa is bliss. The bracelet is fitted with a triple folding clasp with 2-push buttons and the “PHI”-logo.

The same mesmerising type dial

Baume & Mercier Riviera Ref. 10620 comes with a blue dial – just one of the colour variation of the collection. As all the pieces of the collection, the dial is fitted with riveted Roman numerals and indexes filled with C1 Superluminova in blue emission. The stylised dauphine hands are faceted, skeletonised and filled with the same luminescent. The dial is gorgeous and offers good legibility.

All the Riviera pieces feature the same printing: the name and origin on the top and the Swiss Made on the bottom. The mechanical versions also feature “Automatic” on the lower half of the dial.

Proved and reliable

The 42 mm Riviera and the 36 mm (mechanical) are powered by the Calibre Selita SW200-1. This movement offers 38 hours of power reserve at 4Hz. The simple decorations are reflected in the lower price point (in comparison with the manufacture powered versions with sapphire dial).

Iconic design for the next generations

Baume et Mercier pulled a fantastic collection. Based on the iconic Riviera launched in ’73, the modern collection features a little bit of something for everyone. The sapphire dial version displays a clear set of characteristics (pun intended) – the in-house Baumatic movement. The version presented today comes with a rubber integrated strap. For those wanting a bracelet, there is Ref. 10616 with a blue sapphire dial.

The ladies oriented version comes with a mechanical or quartz movement, but only the second feature diamonds (instead of the more techy look with screws found on the mechanical versions). Diana modelled for me and she was positively impressed by the look and comfortable wear. She will prefer a mechanical version though…

The more affordable 42mm steel also comes in various dial versions. The watch wears and feels very good and for the price point, I have nothing to reproach.