Amazed by Breguet’s recently released novelties, the Marine collection in gold and titanium with brown and respectively blue dials, I remembered the much sober and restrained versions in titanium with grey dial. Since I didn’t get the chance to present them, I thought it would be a good idea to refresh the memory with those great pieces. We have a look today at the Ref. 5517 and the Ref. 5527.
Since World Ocean Day is coming, I want to present you with several brands that really make an effort towards protecting the blue side of our planet. Breguet is particularly involved in the Race for Water Foundation‘s activities. Unfortunately, this type of organisation lacks sufficient funds and Breguet teams up with them to raise awareness of ocean preservation and plastic pollution. In 2018, the French originated Maison released a Marine 5517 timepiece to celebrate the partnership.
Breguet has a long history with marine chronometers. The watchmaker was appointed the official chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy in 1815. In modern history, Breguet launched its Marine collection in 1990. The collection is a sportier and modern interpretation of the very traditional Breguet elements. And I have to admit, the pieces presented today are my favourite from the entire Marine lineup.
Breguet Marine 5517 on a rubber strap
Ref. 5517 is a time and date watch with central hands. The variant presented today, Ref. 5517TI/G2/5ZU is a restrained, very sportive piece. The watch remains still an easily recognisable Breguet.
Fluted case
Presented in a perfect 40mm, the Breguet Marine 5517 titanium case features the reinterpretation of the classic fluted case. Incapsulated between the polished bezel and polished exhibition caseback, the middle case bring the well-known design element.
The right side holds a wave-designed crown protection. The crown with the Breguet signature logo gives a note of classicism to the sports line of the watch. The integrated lugs with modern screws can fit a metal bracelet, leather or rubber strap. Note the straight lines and brushing on the lugs’ system.
Not only the case suffered from the touch of the modern industrial style but also the folding clasp. A combination of brushed front and polished edges reminds of the old ships’ helm, in a very stylised form.
Radiating dial
Breguet Marine 5517 comes with a sunburst slate-grey dial in gold, individually numbered and signed. The dial radiates from the nameplate to the exterior, creating fascinating light games. I love the simplicity of the idea that creates such a rich effect.
The entire dial presentation denotes the modern direction Breguet intended with its Marine Collection. The applied Roman numerals are designed to fit the classic shape of the font in an interesting interpretation. The numerals are filled with SuperLuminova. The minutes’ register is formed by points with applied luminescent.
The hands also offer an interesting modernist perception of the traditional signature Breguet ones. But for me, the design reminds me more of the end of 50’s and the 60’s space-age era, when humanity had eyes towards the stars. Instead of perhaps a Breguet-logo second’s counterweight, we notice the nautical style flag termination – or we can see it as a stylised/industrial “B”. The date, placed at 3 o’clock uses a trapeze chamfered aperture that reveals a white on grey scheme. Very appropriate, I would say.
An ultra-modern calibre
On the backside of the Breguet Marine 5517 we notice the calibre 777A. Lavish decorations are contributing to the contemporary style of the watch. We find again the half helm implemented in the rotor manufactured in gold and smartly adorned with a NAC treatment (keeping the arms rounded and polished).
The traditional Geneva waves use two granulations and received an extra engraved line in between. It looks cool and highlights, again, the modernism of the watch. Other visual elements easy to spot are the polished jewels’ sinks, the subtle polished chamfer and the large perlage on the mainplate. Some areas received very fine perlage that is proportioned with the application area. A lot of imagination but also god taste for these decorations.
On the technical side, calibre 777A comes with an impressive 55 hours power reserve. The escapement uses a silicon balance spring and oscillates at 4Hz. The fixing screws of the caseback received some extra care: hand-polished, the screws fit on a large oval polished sink.
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527
The next piece presented today is the chronograph version of the Marine family, Ref. 5527TI/G2/TW0. Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 comes in a bigger package – 42.3mm. The design elements found on 5517 are found in full also on the chronograph.
In the case of the Breguet Marine 5527, the wavy crown protection was transformed in chrono-pushers. While the close vicinity with the crown might seem an “obstacle” for the ease of use, actuating the chronograph is quite ok. The haptic feedback is good.
New depts for the dial
The sunburst pattern is interrupted by the chronograph’s sub-dials. A note of asymmetry is given by the different sub-dials radius. A nice visual gimmick splits the subdials between the small seconds on the left and the chronographs 30-min and 12-hours counter. The last two overlap. The indexes are printed on a circular register.
The date window was moved between 4 and 5 o’clock for obvious reasons of legibility and dial’s structure.
A special note of the titanium bracelet
… and not necessary for the titanium, but for all the metal bracelet of the collection: exceptional. The bracelet is well built: 3 rows links decorated with fine vertical brush and polish. It is light (the titanium version presented today) and comfortable.
All the watches in the Marine collection can be fitted with a case corresponding metal bracelet. While the precious metals need some accommodation with the weight, the titanium is a bliss on the wrist.
Final notes
Breguet Marine collection features various metals for case and bracelets and various dial colours and decorations. While the wave pattern is gorgeous, I find the sunrayed one less “visible” – more discrete.
Breguet Marine 5517 is a perfect fit for a lady/gentleman collector – a good size, well balanced between larger modern and classic smaller watches. Having a grey dial it is neutral and easier to accessorize to various casual fits. The rubber strap is super nice and comfortable but must be changed with a leather one for a much more serious attire. It is comfortable and offers great pleasure on wear.
The larger Breguet Marine 5527 goes well on the wrist too, although the smaller wrist could have a bit of a problem adjusting to its size and weight. For this titanium version, it is not so dramatic. The 5527 breath though a much sportier air. Even on a leather strap, the watch is a pure sports piece. Using the chronograph is pleasant and the overall experience is positive.
The race for wather
If nothing is done, our oceans will contain more plastic than fish by 2050! To tackle this pollution, every single donation counts! Breguet supports the Race for Water Foundation‘s efforts, so can you! It is enough to be responsible for what you do with your plastic waste. Careful waste management at home can do wonders. Try to use only recycled bags and if it possible, use biodegradable ones. And yes, special biodegradable plastics exist.
Another way of helping is by being careful with your water use. Try, as much as possible, to use biodegradable or environments friendly detergents. Use as much water as necessary without wasting it. Use personal care products without micro-plastic. When it comes to food, research a bit – not to buy fish or sea products supplied from overfished areas.
We all can do small things to improve the environmental situation – on large scale, every small detail counts, regardless if positive or negative. So why not be a positive one. Be responsible!
Breguet Marine 5517 Specifications and Price
Movement:
- Mechanical self-winding movement, caliber 777A.
- 15 lignes.
- 26 jewels.
- Numbered and signed Breguet.
- 55-hour power reserve.
- Rotor in 18-carat gold.
- 179 components.
- Reverse in-line lever escapement with silicon horns.
- Frequency 4 hertz.
- Balance spring in silicon.
Case:
- Titanium with fluted caseband.
- Sapphire-crystal caseback.
- Diameter 40 millimetres.
- Thickness 11.50 millimetres.
- Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters).
Dial:
- Sunburst slate-grey dial in gold.
- Individually numbered and signed Breguet.
- Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent markings.
- Faceted open-tipped gold Breguet hands with luminescent material.
- Second hand in the centre.
- Date at 3 o’clock.
Bracelet:
- Titanium.
Price
- € 16 700.00
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 Specifications and Price
Movement:
- Mechanical self-winding movement, caliber 582QA.
- 13½ lignes.
- 28 jewels.
- Numbered and signed Breguet.
- 48-hour power reserve.
- Rotor in 18-carat gold.
- 346 components.
- Reverse in-line lever escapement with silicon horns.
- Frequency 4 hertz.
- Balance spring in silicon.
Case:
- Titanium with fluted caseband.
- Sapphire-crystal caseback.
- Diameter 42.3 millimetres.
- Thickness 13.85 millimetres.
- Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters).
Dial:
- Sunburst slate-gray dial in gold.
- Individually numbered and signed Breguet.
- Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent markings.
- Minute counter at 3 o’clock, hours at 6 o’clock, and small seconds at 9 o’clock.
- Date window between 4 and 5 o’clock.
- Faceted open-tipped gold Breguet hands with luminescent material.
- Chronograph hand in the center.
Bracelet:
- Titanium.
Price
- € 23 300.00
