At the beginning of last November, Jaquet Droz launched a new watch in the exquisite Grande Seconde collection. The Moon themed Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite comes with a gorgeous sand-blasted dial that also gives part of the name of the piece.
The figure 8, the leitmotiv of the collection, makes the Grande Seconde easily and undoubtedly recognisable. Interpreted with originality in various forms, from very traditional to absolute modern, the Jaquet Droz figure 8 strikes from afar. So is the case of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite, where the Moon grey theme enriches the collection with a contemporary interpretation.
As usual, I will start with the hands-on video, ended with a wrist-roll:
The brand’s classic profile
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite comes in a familiar steel case. Sized at 43 mm, the steel bowl construction with convex case body wears much smaller as expected for its rather large size. This construction allows the robust lugs to have a solid but relative slender body (seen from above). The long and bent lugs give a feeling of finesse to the entire appearance. I find it interesting how this construction gives me the impression of voluptuousness but not disgracious. On the contrary, I find it somehow delicate.
The round bezel accommodates a large crystal with rounded edges. The lower left side of the case reveals a small recessed push corrector. The right side of the case reveals the Jaquet Droz double star decorated crown.
A careful analysis of the crown reveals that its shape respects, a bit adimensional, the shape of the case with top bezel and crystal, with exacerbated dimensions but highlighting the Jaquet Droz basic shape. The grip and handling are excellent.
Take me to the Moon…
Initially introduced in 2017, the Grande Seconde Moon asks for attention. Designed arround the prominent figure 8, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite dial integrates into the grande seconde complication two other complications: the very useful date and the romantic moon phase. The watch face is a sand-blasted, meant to resemble the moon’s surface.
Inside the large grande seconds sub-dial, we can notice a recessed sloped register bearing the odd numbers of the date indication. A touch of colour was given with the red numeral “31” and the tip of the baton hand indication.
The moon phase indication uses an arresting blued steel moon disc. The “night sky” sparks with 18-karat white gold star appliques. The Moon itself is a 22-karat engraved white gold moon appliques. The Jaquet Droz Moon Phase only requires a single adjustment every 122 years and 46 days.
The time is displayed by the small excentric sub-dial on the top of the watch face. Using petite blued steel hands, the time is displayed over a white printed Roman numerals and minutes railtrack.
Jaquet Droz Calibre 2660QL3
On the backside of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite, we find a familiar neat view. The watch is powered by the lovely automatic Calibre 2660QL3. The movement is fitted with the latest technologies – silicon balance spring and pallet horns that will assure an exceptional athermal and amagnetic behaviour, double-barrel assuring up to 68 hours of power reserve and a 4Hz working frequency. A skeletonised heavy metal oscillating weight takes care of the winding.
The Jaquet Droz Calibre 2660QL3 is lavishly decorated with a sunray ribbing. The base plate reveals a nice perlage. The bridges suffered a hand-polished chamfering. The engravings are carefully placed not to disturb the clean look.
Also to note the polished jewels sink, the polished screw heads and rounded and polished nib heads.
A charming daily wristwatch
The watch wears smaller than expected, offering a comfortable wrist position. My 18.5 cm wrist accommodated it without being disturbed by its slightly large dimensions (I usually find comfortable watches with a diameter equal to or smaller than 41mm).
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite is a fascinating watch. Meant to be subtle but observable for the right eyes, the watch will make you give special attention to time reading. Due to its beauty, every glimpse at it will be longer… Just like those moments when our eyes catch something beautiful and rest on a bit longer to enjoy it… The choice of finishes bring a nice touch of contemporary to a collection that is otherwise very traditional/classic looking.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite Technical Specifications and Price
- Grey sand-blasted dial.
- Stainless steel case.
- Blued steel moon disc, 18-karat white gold star appliques and 22-karat white gold moon appliques.
- Pointer-type date display and astronomical moon phases at 6 o’clock. Self-winding mechanical movement.
- Power reserve of 68 hours.”
- Jaquet Droz Calibre 2660QL3,
- Self-winding mechanical movement,
- Silicon balance spring and pallet horns,
- Double barrel,
- Flat bridges,
- Heavy metal oscillating weight
- 30 jewels
- Power reserve: 68 hours
- Frequency: 28,800 v.p.h.
- Stainless steel case
- Diameter 43 mm
- Height 13.23 mm
- Individual serial number engraved on the case-back
- Water resistance: To 3 bar (30 meters)
- Gray sand-blasted dial
- Off-centred hours and minutes at 12 o’clock
- Large off-centred second at 6 o’clock
- Off-centred pointer-type date display at 6 o’clock
- Astronomical moon phases at 6 o’clock
- Blued steel moon disc
- 18-karat white gold star appliques and 22-karat white gold moon appliques”
- Blued steel hours, minutes, date and seconds
- Date with lacquered red tip
Strap & Buckle
- Rolled-edge hand-made grey alligator
- Stainless steel folding clasp
- CHF 15,700