MB&F launched today a new version of the LM Perpetual EVO. The novelty comes with a titanium case and a greenish dial. Let’s have a look…
Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO was the brand’s answer to the need for a Legacy Machine that can withstand an active lifestyle. And I completely understood Max when he revealed his frustration of leaving the watch aside for going to the pool or to a more engaging physical activity. And this was not just Max’s need or wish. The need for a sportier but typical Legacy Machine was imposed also by time. After so many innovations and original designs, a more robust piece was … expected.
What was unexpected, for me at least, was the implementation of the idea. Instead of bringing a completely new design, the brand decided to take an iconic MB&F piece and make it suitable for a normal active life. So it is not a wolf in a sheep’s skin, but also not too far from this idea.
The big announcement was done last year in the form of the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO: a zirconium case that packs the well known quantième perpetuelle with three dials (orange, blue, black). The pieces were reviewed in more detail here.
The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Titanium: what’s new?
While the EVO launched last year was an exercise of creative thinking and considerable expertise. Two aspects were important to be known: the unusual and hard to machine material used for the case, the shock-absorbing system that had almost no impact on the visuals of the LM Perpetual.
The exterior of the LM Perpetual EVO remained the same in its 44 mm diameter and 17.5 mm height. But the case was manufactured in titanium, another hard to machine material but not that dangerous. The exceptional finishings (with exquisite polishing) do not reveal the actual metal. Maybe the shade will be a hint for those very familiar with the metals. Otherwise, only the weight is a reporting factor.
Black and green (or whatever shade will the light dictate)
For the new watch, MB&F chose green as a background for the perpetual calendar complication. But saying green is a forced statement. The sunburst background will take the ambient light and shine with various shades varying from grey to blue with a central note of green.
The large balance wheel, an undeniable sign of the LM Perpetual and other MB&F pieces, governs the calendar landscape. The layout remained the same: time on the upper half, date on the left, the day on right and the month indication on the lower side of the dial.
The open design reveals the functioning mechanism and the intricacies of the perpetual calendar construct. What better way to fully understand a QP if not studying with every occasion. In the picture above, one can try to follow the relationship between the date, month and leap year.
Above is well exemplified how the light plays the most important role in how the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Titanium will look: from dark to light green, just like the colour of tropical ocean water in early morning.
The architectural complex construction of the perpetual calendar is always an eye-catcher. MB&F retained the white on black theme (galvaninc treatment) for the sub-dials. Only the leap year and the power reserve indication have a metal finish (otherwise identical to the last year’s model).
Symmetry and well-executed finishes
Despite the fantastic exterior design (and we all know of what MB&F is capable of), the true magic of this independent brand is what lies between the top and bottom sapphire. In the case of the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Titanium is the fully integrated perpetual calendar. From the 14mm balance wheel bespoke manufactured for this movement, down to the two mainspring barrels, this calibre reveals itself. The mechanical processor (or the perpetual calendar complication – in less complicated words) is visible on the dial side.
To keep this construction safe from shocks and vibrations, MB&F uses an annular dampener, the so-called FlexRing that offers amortisation on both vertical and lateral axes. More details of FlexRing can be found in the last year’s review.
Max Büsser always wanted to create time measuring machines respecting 19th-century style. And to keep the promises to himself, he chose traditional techniques and finishes combining them with ultra-modern processes. The MB&F calibres are always a feast for the eyes. I particularly love the Eiffel tower bridge for the escapement anchor and wheel (that also offer a mesmerising view in work).
Maybe the best EVO until now?
While fully appreciating last years’ version in zirconium, I am mostly drawn to this titanium version. It might be the green dial that makes it quieter as the bright orange or more interesting as the blue or more sparkling as the black. Or I just enjoy the warmer contrast. Regardless of my personal preferences, the LM Perpetual EVO in Titanium is a good looking machine.
On the wrist, the LM Perpetual EVO hides its true dimensions behind the rounded lugs. Together with the curved top sapphire, offers an organic look. It is a pleasure not only to have it on the wrist, playing with it is also cool, since the inbuilt safety mechanism can save you from doing mistakes. LM Perpetual EVO Titanium edition retails for CHF 152,000 + VAT (USD 176,000 / EUR 142,000 + tax) and it is available online here.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Titanium Technical Specifications
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
- Galvanic black dials with both SLN numerals and hands (except for the leap year and power reserve)
- FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
- Screw down crown
- Power reserve: 72 hours
- Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
- Number of components: 581
- Number of jewels: 41
- Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators
- Material: Titanium
- Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
- Number of components: 70
- Water resistance: 80m / 8 ATM / 270 feet
- Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Strap & buckle
- Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle.