When Glashütte Original asked me what PanoMaticLunar I would like to review photograph, I immediately thought of the green dial model launched in 2020. I was so impressed by it back then that I wished to take extra time to enjoy it. We have a deep look at the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar forest green Ref. 1-90-02-13-32-62.
This gorgeous example of German watchmaking is part of the Glashütte Original Pano collection – a powerful showcase of the unique Glashütte style with an off-centre time display, large date (the so-called panoramic date) and superb moonphase. Now natural, the caseback displays an entire suite of watchmaking skills with the region’s three-quarter plate, engraved balance bridge and gold rotor weight.
The Pano Collection has been around for two decades and the latest look was updated in 2015. While the classic white, black and blue dials are more “traditional”, the green stands out. Paired with a brown alligator nubuck leather strap, the watch reviewed today presents itself not as your usual muted dress piece, but with daring elegance.
Review: Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar forest green – a matter of proportions
The watch keeps the known design lines and style of the collection and brings a gradient green dial inspired by the Ore Mountains, separating the historical regions of Bohemia in the Czech Republic and Saxony in Germany.
A matter of proportions – the case
Although the 40 mm diameter is a bit on the large side when it comes the pure dress watches, these more sporty dimensions do a good influence on this all-day-oriented wristwatch. With a width of only 12.7mm, the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar has a well-balanced presence, regardless of the wrist size. Witness stand the lifestyle images below.
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar’s case has a three parts construction highlighted by the contrasting finishes of mirror polish with fine brushing: a general front polish present also on the top of the bevelled lugs with a side brushing that continues from the caseband to the strong-shaped, bodied lugs. This contrast permits a lovely game of reflections and, depending on the environment, will bring the world around you to the wrist.
As mentioned previously, the brown leather strap is an excellent companion for this lavish green dial. While Glashütte Original offers the choice of a full metal bracelet for the ultimate sportiness elegance, I consider this strap a much more appropriate association. The deployant buckle was manufactured with similar visual contrast brushed/polish as the case and was further adorned with the Glashütte Original engraved logo.
The set and winding is done using the Glashütte Original embossed steel crown and the recessed pusher at 1 o’clock, the later being used for the moonphase correction. The handling is pleasant and precise with natural feedback.
A matter of proportions – the dial
The dial of PanoMaticLunar was inspired by the coniferous forests surrounding the Glashütte Original manufactory. The green present all the year is contrasting the white of the snow in winter and the beauty of the flourishing nature in summer. It is widely seen for watch brands to get inspiration from the environment around their manufacture, but the interpretation of the surroundings is a matter of artistic craftsmanship.
Responsible for this delightful green-to-black gradient are the experts from the brand’s dial manufacturer in Pforzheim. The process, that might appear easy, requests experience in execution but also in choosing the right materials. The metal base is coated with galvanic nickel to obtain a uniform metallised surface. The next step involves a delicate black spraying of the edge to obtain the black gradient background. For the last step, a transparent green lacquered covers the entire dial. Due to this manual process, each dial is slightly different, giving each piece a certain uniqueness.
One of the recognizable traits of Glashütte watches is the off-centre time display. Following the strict mathematical rules of the golden ratio, the appearance of the PanoMaticLunar has a strange natural feel despite the lack of symmetry. Or maybe this makes the watch so charming. The left side is dedicated to time telling with the hours and minutes indicated by the lance hands filled with SuperLuminova against a recessed circular pattern. As hour indexes and 5 minutes marks, the dial received batton indexes that were hand applied. The individual minutes are marked with a printed register. The top side of the subdial bears the printed white Glashütte Original name.
The running seconds received a stepped-down area with a full printed register that bites from the hours and minutes. The seconds’ hand is baton-shaped with an arrow counterweight. The background was adorned with the same circular pattern, most probably stamped. No SuperLuminova was used. The time legibility is very good in any light condition: the low light permits the luminescent to express itself while in full sun, the polished details shine like crazy.
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar come partly from the “panoramic” date indication – another Glashütte Original recognisable element. The name “panoramic date” comes from the unusually large size of the date window. Placed between 4 and 5 o’clock, the date is designed as two discs with instantaneous change. The reviewed watch was a press prototype and I am not sure if the change at 10 minutes before midnight was desired or the watch was not perfectly set. Certain is that the instant action is mesmerising.
In the same region, one can notice the “PANORAMADATUM” – German for panoramic date, printed in white at the edge of the dial. Other printings are the name of the watch at the 6 o’clock position and “MOONDPHASE” – moon phase at 1 o’clock.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar green bear as part of its name the word Lunar – for the moon phase complication. Placed close to 2 o’clock position, the complication is another example of fine watchmaking. The two moons are milled into convex forms that are polished afterwards with a diamond milling to obtain the magical silvery mirror shine. The moon phase disc is adorned with stars obtained using an elaborate galvanic process. The result is a wonderful moon phase indication that will catch any glimpse of light, being quite distinctive and visible even in very low light conditions.
Regardless of the situation, the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar green offers an intriguing and well-legible time reading. The wrist comfort and the weight are well balanced with the overall good-looking exterior.
A matter of proportions – the movement
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar green is powered by the traditionally manufactured Calibre 90-02. This automatic movement respects again the proportions and decorating style of the Glashütte region that will be explained below.
Before talking about the most spectacular detail of the Glashütte Original Calibre 90-02, is imperative to note the exceptional general good look. All the engravings are gilded, all the edges received a hand-executed beveling and the screws are blued through a temperature treatment. One cannot forget the wide Glashütte ribbing present on all top bridges (excluding the balance bridge).
The winding rotor is offering alone an interesting show. Using a peripheral design and placed on the upper side of the movement, the rotor is skeletonised with the Glashütte Original logo gilded. As a weight, a solid piece of 21k gold is fixed using four screws.
The “pièce de résistance” is the magnificent balance wheel bridge. This particular piece received extra care: fixed with two blue screws on the perlage background of the main plate, the bridge was hand engraved and gilded. Alone the Glashütte Original’s signature double swan-neck fine adjustment mechanism expresses an entire skill set. I have no idea exactly, but I think the beveling of these details took a lot of time from a skilled watchmaker. One can also notice the balance wheel’s inertial screw weights (18 weighted screws in total) and the Glashütte Original logo under the wheel.
Calibre 90-02 is covering 32.6 mm in diameter and has a height of 7 mm. Using an Anachron balance spring and with an escapement regulated at 4Hz, the movement is capable of an approx 42 hours run when left alone.
A matter of proportion – exquisitely balanced & conclusions
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar in green/steel is a well-balanced wristwatch. Starting with the exterior dimensions and look, the watch is an all-rounder, a day-by-day excellent choice. Being able to confront any lady or gentleman’s needs. Having the option for a metal bracelet, the watch can go in full sports mode, although the 50 m water resistance will prevent it from being a true sports watch, but this is not the intention. The superb green dial with its unusual, but traditional Glashütte asymmetric look will catch the attention of those wanting something special. The displayed complications are partly poetic and partly useful but with an unquestionable charm.
Turning the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar for the back view reveals excellent craftmanship and superb details. It is well executed and it does honour to the region from which he comes.
Diana’s take: I really enjoy the watch as a daily choice. It looks fantastic in green and the chosen hue is very pleasant. The large date visible at a glimpse and the distinctive dial layout makes the watch not only well-legible but also charming.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar green Technical Specifications
- Small second (off-centre)
- Second stop
- Panorama Date
- hour and minute
- (off-centre) moon phase
- Automatic movement 90-02
- Dimensions: Ø 32.6 mm, height 7 mm
- Balance: screw balance with 18 weighted screws
- Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 Hz
- Power reserve: 42 hours (+/- 5 %)
- Balance spring: Anachron
- Shock protection: Incabloc
- Jewels: 47 jewel bearings
- Finishes: bevelled edges, polished steel parts, polished/blued screws, skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, plate with Glashütte stripe finish, duplex swan-neck fine adjustment.
- Stainless steel,
- satin-brushed and polished,
- sapphire crystal on top and bottom,
- waterproof up to 5 bar
- Diameter: 40.00 mm,
- height: 12.70 mm
- Varnished in green and black with dégradé effect with appliques
Strap & Buckle
- Louisiana alligator nubuck leather strap brown with buckle