One of the nice surprises of GPHG 2020 was the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F as the winner of the Audacity Prize. Even now, a day later I am still thrilled about this result. Because H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and MB&F X Moser LM101 are two pieces of the greatest horological collaboration ever. And as much as I love both watches, only the H. Moser & Cie wristwatch won.
Usually, a collaboration between two brands results in a single model with maybe some cosmetic variations. But no, H. Moser & Cie together with MB&F collaboration resulted in two, brands’ specific collections, each with its own cosmetic variation. When I first saw the press release pictures I was mindblown by the fact that each borrowed element enriched and highlighted the individual brand’s language. Even with a Moser dial, the LM101 is still the same MB&F. Even with a highly domed crystal and an inclined dial (the cylindrical spring is manufactured by Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of H. Moser & Cie.), the Endeavour is still a Moser…
A recognisable Endeavour
Only this perspective, in the picture above, can create some confusion. This type of domed sapphire and the inclined dial is now a “classic” in MB&F wristwatches.
I have to admit that this set of curves from the elegant Endeavour 42mm steel case looks tremendous with the domed crystal. The view of the sapphire dial adds new tinkles to my brain.
I am an old fan of the cylindrical hairsprings and seeing one in a tourbillon exposed like this is an immense joy for my eyes. Of course, the degrade dial is a bliss. The fume technique of H. Moser & Cie is at legendary levels.
A new time perspective
As a guy that spends countless hours in front of the computer (at work and at home), I find the 40º angle somehow perfect. I can read the dial that is almost perpendicular to my view, meanwhile, I can enjoy the game of the tourbillon that indolently rotates. That without making a gesture, without moving my eyes.
If you might think that the legibility has to suffer from transparency, you are terribly wrong. It is a strange combination of elements (I might blame a bit MB&F for this) that makes everything clear and there when you need it. You want to read the time, no problem – even in any light – luminescent Moser leaf hands. You want to abstract and see through the dial – no problem, the tourbillon is there for you to see it.
The view of the tourbillon, usually a mesmerising element of the dial, is now just an equal with the sunburst fume dial base and inclined time dial. It is just like H. Moser & Cie and MB&F recognise each other as equally important players in the horological game and pay signs of respect to each other.
The back of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F finds a very familiar view. The automatic Calibre HMC 810 enchants with the Moser specific elements.
Still, the new dimension on vertical is more open as before for Moser. The one-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock with skeletonised bridges and cylindrical hairspring has enough place to express itself for the delight of the viewer.
Calibre HMC 810 presents those usual characteristics we expect from the independent brand: Moser stripes, gilded engravings, bevelled and polished edges and a solid gold rotor weight.
I remember how thrilled and impressed I was when I received the joint press releases from both brands. I was fascinated and ecstatic. Then, I got the chance to see these watches with my own eyes. To feel them, play with and wrist them. I was once again amazed and happy that meeting them, in reality, was not a disappointment but a reason to love them more. These feelings culminated with the Audacity Prize of the 20th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. It was for me a sign of “normality” – that my madness is just a normal behaviour between watch lovers and my attachment for these pieces was not only mine but also fully understandable.
I will use this occasion to congratulate H. Moser & Cie and MB&F for this extraordinary achievement: the prize and the watches. Please continue so… This year was a hard one, and your love and passion for Haute Horlogerie, these watches help us all to withstand easier to these difficult times. We feed our souls, hearts and minds with your creations.
P.S.: You want to know how the H. Moser & Cie, Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F behave in the wild? Great legibility due to an unusual set of details, excellent position on the wrist with great comfort. Having the inclined dial enhances the time reading with no effort of the hand or the eyes. And no, I don’t care the crown is on the left side… Cheers!
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Technical Specifications and Price
- Steel model, Ice Blue fumé dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 15 pieces
- Steel topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
- Diameter: 42.0 mm
- Height: 19.5 mm
- Height without crystal sapphire: 9.4 mm
- Crown at 9 o’clock, engraved with a “M“
- See-through sapphire crystal case back
- Main dial: Ice Blue fumé with a sunburst pattern (and with variation Funky Blue fumé, Burgundy fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Off-White fumé)
- Hours and the minutes displayed on a 40° vertically tilted sapphire dial at 6 o’clock
- The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, blued on the reference 1810-1203
- HMC 810 three-dimensional automatic Manufacture calibre
- Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
- 29 jewels
- 184 components
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Oscillating weight in 18-carat gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
- Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
- Cylindrical hairspring
- One-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock with skeletonised bridges
- Hours and minutes
- Hand-stitched black alligator leather
- Steel folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo
- CHF 79 000
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Gallery